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I got 4 o-rings in the mail yesterday. Email them again and if they don't get back to you, I can send you two of mine. Email this guy: jchaya@dormanproducts.com He's a product manager there and he's the one that responded to my original email.

......still working on it.

Beautiful!

http://mustangforums.com/forum/members-rides-and-car-show-section/579085-showoff-of-the-year-3.html The guy said he didn't find out about the contest until a few days before it was over. Also, one guy on there said, "I gave you a few votes on there today." I thought it was 1/24hr period?

You're welcome! There will be a lot more as the project continues. Just wish it wasn't so dang cold out....

I'm kind of taking a gamble with my caliper paint. I used Dupli-Color's Engine Enamel. It says it has a 500* temp. rating. Hopefully it'll hold up alright. I'm going to bleed them with a hose on the bleeder screw so as not to get fluid on them. I painted the backing plate with their wheel coating. It has a milder temp rating but it also says "chemical resistant". Whether that includes brake fluid or not, we'll see.

Here's a bit more progress. The backing plate took by far the most amount of time to clean and prep for paint than anything else. I'm guessing it hasn't been clean since September of 1974. This was pretty good progress for New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, believe it or not.

Yea, here's to hoping.

Ok, I'll let you slide this time.

If mine are not, may I purchase yours?

Yea, I'm hoping that my wheel cylinders are in OK shape so that I can rebuild them. They are quite expensive. I haven't taken my drums off yet. Were yours in good shape? I'm guessing that the inner lining of them is a pressed-in steel assembly? I really hope I do not have to buy those either.

I got my new brake hoses in the other day from Motorsport Auto. They look smexxxy. Now that I'm back from Christmas visiting, I'll get cracking on it this week. Also, I contacted Dorman (Tru-Torque's parent company) via email about the caliper rebuild kits. Hopefully, I'll receive a response in the next couple of days. I decided against buying two more kits. I like customer service and finding out who's got it and who doesn't. Since I have plenty of stuff to do before I NEED the O-rings, I figured we'd wait and get them the right way. "Hello, I recently purchased two brake caliper rebuild kits from Advance Auto Parts #5156 in Tuscaloosa, AL. The kits were for my 1974 Datsun 260Z. They are Tru-Torque kits; part # D35667. When I received the kits, both of them were missing the same part. These calipers require two seals between the caliper halves. They are square-cut O-rings. Both of the kits I received only contain one. I am a member of an online Z-Car forum, and another member from Denver, CO ordered 2 of the same kits in question around the time I ordered mine. He noted that both of his kits were missing the same piece mine were. From this listing on your website, https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/item-dtl.w?sid=nbgmabdafdobahji012843649152215991&item=D35667&icrid=&clt=hwrap1&vsrch_str=d35667&vsrch_brand=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&st_amount=&end_amount=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0 I see that there should, in fact, be two seals per kit (the smallest black O-rings in the center are the ones I am missing). I would like to receive the parts that are missing from my kits directly from you, as I feel that if I order two new kits, they will be missing the pieces, as well. I can provide you with proof of purchase, photos, or anything else you need to verify what I have stated. I anticipate your reply to help resolve this problem. Sincerely, Grant Hollingsworth" Darrel, if you want to do the same, email productinfo@dormanproducts.com. Feel free to copy and paste my email format.

Glad to see you're as happy as I am with the ZT carbs. It looks like you got the upgrade finished in just enough time to consider it a Christmas present, as well.

I thought about doing the same thing. However, you'll be hard pressed to find an O-ring that will hold up to brake fluid. It's corrosive stuff. You might be able to use O-rings made for fuel systems (usually red) but I don't even know if those will work. Plus, you'd have to get the exact right thickness. The caliper halves are designed to be metal-to-metal when tightened up, with the O-ring squeezed firmly in between. I'm just going to order some more kits. It's still a bargain compared to the rebuilt ones. What shape were your pistons in?

That's where I got these. I work there. Did you have a similar experience with yours?

Alright, here's the rebuild kit I'm using. However, I do not recommend it. One of the kits has two different style dust seals. They're the same I.D. and O.D. but they are made differently. Also, both of the kits I bought only have one O-ring for the caliper halves. They require two. If you can't find another brand of rebuild kit, then I guess these will work. The quality of the parts seems to be really good, but don't count on getting all the right parts. I'm going to have to order two more kits to get all the stuff I need. Good thing they're only $4 or so each.

Alright, getting some more stuff done. I got both sides of the caliper thoroughly cleaned and painted. I got the bolts, pistons, and other hardware cleaned and ready to go, as well. I'm off to do some Christmas shopping and will hopefully get the caliper assembled with its new seals and everything tonight. Then, all I have to do is paint the backing plate and rotor to put this side back together again. After that, I'll do the other side....and then the rear. Here are pics of the freshly painted caliper.

Ouch! I haven't gotten to the rears yet. Now I'm scared.

Yea, it's not hard; just takes a little while. Be mindful of the cylinder walls that the bearing cups press into and don't gouge them with your punch or screwdriver.

I used a hammer and punch to knock the old ones out. There are notches cut into the race seats in the hub just for this method. To install them, I used a similar method with a punch and used the old races on top of the new ones to get them started.

Well, my day was cut a little short, so I ended up just working on a few parts from the driver's side. I beat the old bearing cups out of the hub and the new ones in. I wire brushed it, stripped the old paint and everything off and painted it. Refer to the pics above for a "before" shot. :paranoid: I also got the backing plate ready to paint but it's too cold to paint now, so I'll hopefully get that tomorrow. My caliper rebuild kits came in at work today, just have to go pick them up. I'm going to let the caliper parts soak another night in the parts cleaner before I clean them up to reassemble. I also ordered a full set of stainless steel braided brake hoses last night from MSA. They might be here tomorrow, but probably on Monday.

I'll also add this bit of information. If you plan on rebuilding your own calipers, then the hardest part of the deal will be getting the pistons out. There are several methods to do this. You can either use compressed air and a blow gun with a rubber tip or you can use the hydraulic system of your brakes. To use the compressed air method, push the rubber tip of the blow gun into the threaded hole that receives your brake line. Slowly squeeze the trigger until the pistons pop up most of the way (not out all the way). For the brake system method, leave your brake line connected to the caliper. Slowly press the brake pedal while someone watches (or you go look between pumps) the pistons to make sure they are coming out evenly. For both methods, leave your caliper assembled with the exception of brake pads. Either way, you'll want to make sure you pop both pistons out evenly. If one starts to get ahead of the other one, use a small C-clamp to hold that one in place while the other one catches up. Once the pistons are popped out about 5/8"-3/4", you can finish the job with a pair of pliers. Be sure you only grip the edge that the dust seal attaches to. DO NOT grip the surface of the piston that slips down into the cylinder.

Thanks! I am cleaning and sanding the hub right now to prepare for painting. What method did you use to install the new bearing cups (races)?

You just let me do all of this stuff before you, don't you?

I have no reason to believe any of these aren't original.