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g9m3c

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Everything posted by g9m3c

  1. Like mentioned above, go with a Ron Tyler style mount. I built mine myself, and it was pretty easy. Replacing the strap is the only permanent solution to the problem. Here's a few pics of mine.
  2. Looking good! I know your work, so I also know there's some good stuff to come! Good luck!
  3. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Cool! Welcome from Tuscaloosa! What part of Alabama are you from?
  4. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    That is one beautiful Zed you have! We have to have more pics, though. Can't wait to see that interior!
  5. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    The first one is a maintenance starter button. You can use it to start the engine from under the hood. My 260Z had this as well, but it never worked.
  6. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    As long as the mechanical pump is in good working order, it will be fine to run alone. Many people have bypassed the electric pump with success. You can also install an aftermarket inline electric pump and run it by itself. That's what I did with my 260, and it works flawlessly. Just make sure you get a low pressure pump. I believe somewhere around the 2.5-3 psi range is what is reccomended. Hope this helps!
  7. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Can't wait to see more progress! That paint looks nice.
  8. Awesome! I'll be looking forward to the progress.
  9. It looks amazing!
  10. g9m3c posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Simply amazing. Awesome story behind that car. I wonder if he'll ever sell it. I wouldn't.
  11. Thanks a lot!
  12. Alright, a little update here. A collaboration of ideas, if you will. I used Alan O's brilliant idea for the throttle return springs. It worked excellently. Just remember to hook the front spring back onto the throttle shaft arm and not onto the center linkage. You can also see my choke cables with all the crap on the ends removed and slid down into the sleeves on the body of the carbs. Steve at Ztherapy told me to do this. Again, worked excellently. I'm almost finished with the first air horn. Still have to enlarge those notches a tad and smooth it a little with body filler. They're not bad as-is though.
  13. 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Should be in a little black tube at your local parts store. As far as getting the old one off, you might try to peel the rubber off of one side of the cowl flange at a time. Slowly. Peel it off like you would tape from a paint job; at an upwards angle. Hopefully it'll just peel off. I'd think anything you would use to soften the glue wouldn't be friends with your paint. Maybe use a little heat from a hair dryer.
  14. x2 on the EGR diagnosis. I don't recognize the other two.
  15. Ah, you'll be fine. The balance tube looks great, btw.
  16. Anyone care to tell me what my ignition timing should be set at? I could lookup the factory specs, but I figured someone might have further insight.
  17. They are for sure. In case you needed further evidence....... The first one is about 10 or 15 to 60, and the second one is from a dig to 60.
  18. Sorry for the crappy pics, guys. Stupid auto focus on my phone. I didn't get as much done today as I would have liked to, but oh well. It's lookin good. EDIT: Notice my choke cables. I talked with Steve at Ztherapy today and he told me to just take the boots and both clamps off the end of both cables. Then you simply slide them in the sleeves on the carb bodies and hook the cables up. It works fine without clamping them to the sleeves or anything.
  19. I'm about to weld the air horn onto it's flange, and then start on the second one. I had to snap a quick pic though. I still have to make notches for the air bleed holes in the flange. Yep, I forgot em.
  20. Definitely. I have a few packs in the garage right now. Here's where I'm at with the air horns. Still have some smoothing to do, then cut them to length and bondo/paint. You can see my "jig" in the background made of 2x4's. I had to make that to keep the exhaust adapter in place with the flare hanging over the edge of the wood to bend it outwards. Look familiar?
  21. That does help, thanks! I was about to ask a couple of questions, but now I see what you're saying. I hadn't even looked at them that closely yet. For some reason, I was thinking that clamped thing on the cable was part of the sheath for some reason. I'll probably call Scott tomorrow and see what he suggests; possibly the same thing as you.
  22. Figured out how to make my air horns! Picked these up at work tonight. They're 1 3/4" I.D. to 2" O.D. exhaust pipe adapters. The carbs measure 44mm throat diameter, and these measure 45mm. By the time they are primed and painted, they'll be perfect! I plan on cutting them where the red line is in the pic above, then smoothing the flare out a little more with a body hammer. According to several sources, including Ztherapy, the factory air horns have yet to be improved upon, and these will end up being almost exact replicas of those. This is a pic from sleepyzzz's setup. He cut the factory air horns out and reused them. You can see that they are straight until the very end where they have a small flare. That should be fairly easy to duplicate.
  23. That's awesome!
  24. Thanks! I just finished watching the "Just Su's" dvd, and Scott mentioned using lawnmower throttle cable for choke cables. I might look into that as well.
  25. Oh yea, just remembered a question I had. My choke cables were obviously not designed to be used with these carburetors. They used the clamp things on the flat tops, and not what is on my new carbs. Is there any way to make these cables work, or do I need to source other ones? If so, which ones? You can see the ends of the cables in one of the pics above.

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