vpulsar

I'm actually about the same weight I was back then maybe a stone of two heavier but not enough to make much difference, I had to pull the seat forward a bit back then, I just think that the 2 seater must not be as roomy as the 2+2. Mind you I remember also driving a 2 seater back then and that was also roomy enough to fit my fat arse in . It's ok the car is going to a friends shop to have the floor and seat modified to suit my large frame , He's going to get the seat back those extra 6" and drop the seat height a bit if pos as well, I'll report back on the end result. Rob

Hi guys I've got a bit of an annoying problem with my 260 in that I don't bloody well fit , Now I had a left hand drive 260 2+2 over 20 years ago now and I remember the seat went back to far in that if I had it all the way back so had to pull it a little forward. But on this early 260 I have now not only do I find it very hard indeed getting past the standard 15" dished wheel once I'm in it's nearly on my chest and I find it hard to change gear with my leg hitting the wheel, Their is about 6" behind the seat with it all the way back and I was wondering if any other tall/fat people might of had the same problem and solved it ?. Any pointers would be gratefully received, Or does a later seat have more travel on it's runners or are the US car seats given more travel because they eat all the pies ? :classic:. Rob

Just like a yank to think driving on the right is the right way to do things , I've no idea why you lot ended up on the wrong side of the road :stupid:, You must know by now that the british gave you everything useful LOLLOLLOLLOL. Rob

Thanks for all the advice and comments guys, I've solved the problem now by having a new chassis plate made, It's an exact copy of the original plate and looks the part. Here's a picture of the car having exited the garage for the first time in 15 years in working order . Rob

You've been watching to much CSI mate . Thanks for all the advice guys, The problem is now solved I've found a company in the UK to make me a replacement plate which should see me through the UK M.O.T test. Rob

Well I've been out all afternoon working on the old heap , I've taken the paint right off now and can see some of the numbers but not clearly at all, I can just make out 0000702 I think. Which is a good sign . I also swapped out the standard rev counter for an Auto meter BV3990 which fits perfect with a bit of trimming. Rob

My thought exactly, I'm off out to the garage to have a better look and maybe wear my glasses this time :classic:. Here is a few shots of it in all it's glory . And my rear disc conversion. Rob

Hi buddy thanks for your replies, Though I appreciate your concerns about it being a bit dodgy I don't think you're correct in your assumptions, They didn't make many 74 260's and to have one that is ringed or stolen is very unlikely over here, It is definitely a 1974 car because their is other pointers to that being correct. As far as the stamped in chassis number goes I could make out 3000 in the paint but once I had gently remover the paint with a pad that doesn't damage metal I couldn't make anything out, If most definitely hasn't been welded or beaten in that area, I think a few going's over with a DA sander has done the damage. I spoke to VOSA today and they said they where happy for me to make up my own plate and rivet it on myself, I also spoke to the police who will give it the once over when they have the time, I also still know the person I bought the car from and he is a long term Zclub member. I just think with the car having been off the road for 14 years and at least two owners things like chassis plates can get lost, I will have one more go at lifting the original stamped in number then I'll make my own. I do have the log book for the car so I do know the chassis and engine numbers, The chassis number is RS30000702. Rob

Hello from blighty guys. I have a problem with my 1974 260Z, I bought this car about a year ago as a restoration project and have been going great guns with it nearly being ready for the road again. My problem is that I hadn't realized that not only didn't I have the original rivet on chassis plate I also had no sign of the stamped in number on the firewall due to it having been painted quite a few times, I've stripped the paint off the area but it appears that it's been rubbed away while being prepped for painting. Is their anybody in the US doing reproduction chassis plates that I can stamp up myself ?. Rob