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looking for s30 rear hatch
In Louisiana. Willing to drive or pay cheaper shipping. Was quoted 200.00 shipping from a northern Guy.
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Finally ready for some paint!!!!!!!!!!!
What airdam is that Madkaw? Your car is looking good.
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Pictures of my 1976 280z project
Thanks! I actually paid $650.00 for two cars. The guy let me gut the other car and leave it on his property. I have all the interior pieces and a couple of drivetrain pieces to keep it running.
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Pictures of my 1976 280z project
I cant wait either! I was so excited that it ran! I have a 302 I plan to build and put in. Mabey a 347 stroker. Ill decide on that when the time comes. I just ordered a 2 quarts of epoxy primer and a gallon of urethane primer. Once the body work is done, I will under coat the car,rebuild rear and suspension with all new bushings. Ill freshin the engine bay when the 302 gets dropped in. The sound dampener is actually stuff called seel and peel from lowes. Its about $12.00 a roll and took 3.5 rolls to do the car. I had talked to several people on painting forums and audio forums who have used this stuff. I went to an audio shop and looked at there dampener and it is identical to this stuff! Saves a ton buying it from Lowes! It will be in the roofing section. It is a tar type tape that is used to patch holes on a roof.
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Pictures of my 1976 280z project
Well, I have made plentry of post with questions about this car, I know atleast one of you wanted to see it(dont remember who). I bought the car for $650.00. It didnt run, lots of the body was patched due to rust but never finished the body work. It came with another car that I gutted the interior from. The first day I got it I was trying to get it running. Turns out the fuel line had a crease in it and that was it!!! Fires up first try, shifts smoothly thru all 4 gears(4speed). I have had the car for about 2-3 weeks now and so far I have only gotten to interior. I took out all of the old sound dampener, got rid of every ounce of interior rust, fiberglass patched some small squares in the floor pans and spare tire carrier. Primed the floor, then laid down new sound dampener in the entire car. My next step is the vinyl work.
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Gauges not working
After I got the car running good, I noticed that all the gauges except for the tach and clock were working. I changed the tach for another one and it still didnt work. I have followed the wiring and they seem to be intact and plugged in. I bought all new fuses and replaced all of them. now nothing but the battery charge works. what could be going on?
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Dupli-color interior paint = TERRIBLE!
Just letting everyone know my experience. I purchased a can of gloss black duplicolor interior paint. I clean the door panel extremely well. I sprayed a small section and it looked GREAT! As it started drying, it started to lose its gloss. When it was fully dry, it was completely FLAT. Nowhere near a semi-gloss and looked worse then the factory color. I thought there was a possibility of the can lids being swapped out in the store so I went to a different autozone and purchased another can of gloss black. This was the same color as the first can. I decided I would not do the entire interior so I thru some turtle wax interior shine on the door. The painted area doesnt absorb the shine like the rest of the door and within 2 minutes goes back to flat black. Just wanted to inform everyone that this stuff is garbage! I would stay as far away from it as I can throw it!
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Gauges not working
My speedo and battery charge gauge work fine. The Tach, fuel, oil dont work. Does this sound electrical or the gauges themselves are broken? Should I buy a voltmeter and test the power to each of the gauges?
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transmission/ shifting ease
No offense taken, I have very litle experience. It just blew my mind how simple this car is to dry. almost no timing required for gas/clutch. Other vehicles will just die if there isnt perfect timing and others jump and jitter.
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transmission/ shifting ease
Im not saying anything in particular, just trying to explain if I have a problem with it. Timing really isnt an issue, I ease off the clutch starting in first not giving any gas and the car will coast ( other vehicles never did this). When I shift into second,third, fourth, I can shift and let go of clutch without giving gas and it rolls without dieing. Just seems weird to me compared to others I have drivin. The engine seems to idle loud, could to high of an idle be the cause?
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transmission/ shifting ease
I have driven four standard trucks and two standard cars. Im not the greatest at driving a standard yet but one of the cars( a honda) was so much easier to shift then the others. I drove a 350z last night and I did terrible!!!! Something about that clutch was an awful design! Today I got my 280z running(4speed) and it was likedriving an automatic. The shifts were flawless and it almost felt like I didnt have to worry about clutch/gas timing at all! Does this mean the clutch is going out(like someone suggested) or are some cars designed this way?
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Help trouble shoot
Its a 76 280z
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Help trouble shoot
Car will turn over, run for 4-5 seconds, then shut off. I was going to get a fuel pressure guage to see if the pump is working(around 30psi I suppose???) What else can I check for if its not the fuel system? Would it be the computer?
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Starter
The guy kept the starter on the car I bought so I pulled one from another z. If this one doesnt work, Im wondering if I could use a 81-85zx starter on my 76 z?
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302 swap trans
so all the 280z models are R200, not R180.........