coop

What would happen if I just slid out my old cam(externally lubricated) and slid in one that was internally lubricated and I kept the spray bar? Loss of oil pressure? Increased viscosity drag? Decreased/increased wear? Big explosion? Any recommendations here?

Would be great to see lots of Zs on the 8th but I'll be running my Z there a few days later on the SCCA Vintage weekend that follows and can't be away to do both. Bummer. Wish it was on Friday. Didn't see any firm commitment yet by HOD for the 8th event, however.

Met Epperly and his crew a few weeks back at Pacific Raceways where I was running my Z in ITS and Vintage. His car looks terrific and ran quite well in the rain. If looks mean anything, than his car is a winner for sure. BTW we did well with a couple of seconds in ITS in mixed conditions. Not bad for visitors.

Had a great time last weekend at Laguna Seca. Took a long time to shake the cobwebs off the driver which are still there. After finally getting a working set of pads and shoes on the car, I proceeded to screw up qualifying by trying too hard and had to wait it out on the beach. Starting way back in the middle of the pack was actually fun and after three laps was attacking the leaders. Set up the third place car for a standard inside pass in turn 11 when as I popped out I realized we had eaten up the two cars in front of us. Just didn't see that coming. Punted the #2 car off and did some damage to the Z but continued. No marks at all on his car. What a rookie mistake. After looking at the in car video, I'm still amazed at how fast we ate up the other cars while I was tucked behind that one car. Lesson learned - must look farther ahead somehow. Got my act together for the next qualifying and ended way up on the pole. Then dominated the whole race until three turns from the end. As a lapped car parked it in the Corkscrew, #2 caught me. I went left, he went right and got me by .45 sec at the finish. What a bummer and after getting the car set up as close to perfect as possible. Was the only z out there in our group. Sure do wish some others would come out. Did meet some nice folks that either had or used to own Zs. We are planning on running Memorial Day weekend at Pacific Raceway in Kent WA and also June 10 -13 at Laguna Seca. Drive your car out and say hi.

That's all I have.

Here are some more.

I found this add in the back of an old Laguna Seca race program. I may have some other old program stuff like this to post if anyone is interested. Coop

1982 Chev 1/4 ton PU 6.2L diesel. Washer from assembly line finally dislodged after 800 miles and did the arch of St. Louis on top of one of the pistons and did they give me a new engine......no way. Just repaired the one piston!$@ Transmission @ 25K Rear seal @ 50K Fuel selector valve 3 Glo Plug sesors Fuel Pump @ 50K Multiple alternator failures Injector line crack etc. etc. Never had a GM product since. Life is good!

woytovich, I could see your entry no problem. Threw mine there for grins.

I've been aware that "real" mag wheels have a corrosion issue for a while so I've been keeping mine moist with Gibbs Brand penetrant. The wheels are bare and not nice looking plus they pick up brake dust like crazy. I just hoped there was someone in the US that could do a proper job and not just polish and paint them as might work on aluminum wheels.

Wow, 280 degrees, what caused that? Oh, on an interesting side note, Dave told me that my engine(that he built) made the highest power numbers that he's ever achieved on one of his ITS L24 builds........200.7 HP Sounds good until you look at the second place finisher.........200.5

Jon. Up to now, I've had no idea why or how a Quaife works. I just knew that it did and that clutch disks didn't wear out. Sounded good to me so I went with it and have had trouble free results. "It's the friction between the gears and the case that causes the limited slip action, and it's pretty much all shear friction."............I had no idea! I should definitely go with something other than Shock Proof! John recommends Redline 75W-140. Can I get an Amen on that? Also, when I switch, how do you think the differential engagement will alter vs the Shock Proof? Thanks everyone for the education.:stupid: Just a note here. If it ever sounds like I don't know what I'm talking about it's probably because I don't know it all and I'm constantly learning so don't feel you're insulting me by passing on your knowledge. Again thanks.

John, I've been running Redline Heavy Weight Shock Proof. I've also tried the Light Weight Shock Proof but only for one weekend. Both types get real nasty real fast. I'm surprised because theoretically, when using a Quaife, shear forces are not as much of a factor as shock/impact forces. With that in mind, wouldn't you think that you could stretch the oil change intervals a little using a Quaife vs a clutch LSD? I used to get multiple weekends on my old lockers.

Carl. I'm in Japan right now so I can't get you any pics. They have various degrees of pitting, were once painted, but are now naked after sandblasting a year ago. I know, not ideal but they still might clean up enough for vintage racing. The fact they were Frank Leary's makes me want to hold on to them, especially after meeting him at the Rose Cup at Portland quite a few years ago.

Who's doing your refreshing? Rebello does mine. Not cheep but solid.

I love clutch style diffs but my experience has shown that they burn up after a while if you don't use a good diff cooler on them. That, of course, is illegal in my class. That's why I go for the Quaife - while not perfect, is basically bullet proof and allows nice turn in. Thanks for info Jon.

Got back recently from an SCCA double at Infineon. I drove like a turd to include a huge spin entering turn 10 without hitting anything. Still fought back for a second. The car that won, a BMW 325, got protested prior to the next race. Rumor has it(from very reliable sources) that he has a 3+ liter engine in there amongst other stuff. Any way, he refused the tear down and left the track, taking with him a 6 month suspension and $250 fine. Kinda puts a hmmmm on all the wins and track records he's been earning lately. My wife told me to knock off the spins and to take it easy for the next race. Of course I did and got a solid if uninspired win behind an ITA Miata driven by former national champion Mark Hoover. Yea, I know, a Miata. But hey, my car is in one piece and I can now cruise the winter months doing improvements! Thanks to those of you who gave me direction and support.

Can anyone out there point me to a supplier of the R-180 Quaife? It's time to pony up for a second/backup. Motorsport Auto doesn't offer them any more. Do I have to go to the factory to get one? Thanks. PS See what I can afford when I don't crash the car!

Anyone can chime in but I bet Carl has the answer. The season is over, capped off with a nice but not impressive win at Infineon. So, where can I restore my "classic" American mags back to their original condition? And no, you can't have them Carl.

Has any one had any luck using Locktite to secure the diff. ring gear bolts? Bending the tabs over fatigues them and I'd like to come up with a method that allows me to change my Quaife in and out as necessary.

Hey Carl. A good friend used to race his Z against Jaremko's Z in Conference back around 1980 or so. My friend pointed out to Jaremko that running electric fans in the ducting to the rear brakes was perhaps a stretch of the rules term "ducting." Jaremko had to remove the blower fans. Nice try eh! Coop

Yes indeed I shortened the rear struts 1" too much. The rear end became too twitchy as the inside rear wheel was raising off the ground at times since the strut could not extend far enough before reaching its full travel. See the attached photo for my solution. Note the 1" thick camber plate. Less than ideal but effective. Please go easy on my welding.

Just a word of warning. When I sectioned my struts, I followed GC's instructions exactly. The result when using their Advance Design shocks had the car lifting the inside rear off the ground in corners. Their directions had me shortening the struts one inch too much. What would happen is, as the car leaned over in a corner, the inside shock would reach the end of its travel thus lifting the wheel. Made the car very twitchy to drive at the limit. I had to then have a machinist make me a one inch thick camber plate to relocate the top of the shock a little lower in the frame. I recommend you closely examine where you want the center of travel point on the shock - somewhere between bottoming and full extension. This is about where the car should sit at static ride height. You may want to leave a little extra room for bump travel. Then, without the spring installed, do a mock-up to see if the shock will have full travel as the suspension does its full travel. This is what i would have done if I had to do it over again. Might not be a problem depending on what shocks you use. Yours may be longer so they may have more travel than mine. Has anyone else had this problem on the rear struts? Also, mounting the camber plate on the underside of the strut tower is the way to go. As the strut compresses, it will transfer compression forces upward and force the plate into the lip you've created around the top of the tower. This lip if cut properly will resist the compression loads and transfer them over a large area. If you mount the plate on top, the loads become tension loads transferred completely through the plate mounting bolts, nuts and washers. Looks pretty but not nearly as strong. FWIW, Coop

Jon, you are the winner! Yes indeed it was the left front e-bushing rotating under side load. The big bolt just wasn't tight enough even though the alignment marks were right on. I compared two pictures taken just seconds apart in the cork screw at Laguna Seca. Both showed my left hand in the same position on top of the steering wheel yet the left front wheel was pointed in different directions between the pics. Here is what was happening: When the car was static or running in a straight line or under braking, the left front suspension arm would stay in the full negative camber position that I wanted. Upon entering a right hand corner with both front tires under load, the right front tire could turn the car in. As the car transitioned through the turn, the right front tire would unload and the left front tire would then provide all the turning force. This side load from the left would rotate the e-bushing inward causing a huge toe out change keeping the car from turning right. First, I tightened the bolt but then I drilled and tapped a set hole through the cross member and into the e-bushing. Then I just bolted in a set bolt. Problem solved. That thing will never rotate again on me. How embarrassing! Last weekend at Thunderhill, the car ran a 2:06 flat, less that .5 seconds off a lap record which had been set by an E36 BMW that can't even run in that configuration any more without being bumped a class. Not bad after a four year layoff and the car has even more in it. Thanks everyone for all the help. Coop

Phillip, cool pics. Do you have any of the 1978 race at Road Atlanta, especially the first lap that shows the Logan Blackburn and Frank Leary Zs? Coop