rubrbulits

Carrot, are you talking about the rods themselves? The rods are fine, the problem is where the rods attach to the frame. The driver side is missing the "cupped retainers" that the bushings rest in. Just wondering if anyone else ever ran into this problem, and how they delt with it.

I ran into this issue while installing the urethane bushing "energy suspension kit". Where the compression rod attaches to the body, or frame, the drivers side is missing the two "retainers things" that keep the bushings in place. They must have completely corroded away. The pic with the red arrow is the good side, and the other pic is the bad side. Any ideas? What options do I have here? I'm sure leaving it like this wont be a good thing. I'm kind of at a dead end here. Thanks for any input.

Thats what I thought. Thanks!

I have checked out Zbarn and they're prices are very reasonable. I have tried to contact them and have had no reply yet. Probably because it's the holidays. Maybe you can help me. Zbarn says this about their used struts, "These front strut housings are stripped. They do not include springs, strut cartridge, hub or any brake parts. That's perfect, but when they say "no hub" I assume that the spindle or shaft is included. From what I can tell it cant be removed anyway......Right? I have attached a pic of what I think I would get, minus the strut cartridge of course. What do you think.

Does anyone have or know where I can get a good used front left strut for a 71 240z? I destroyed mine trying to remove the old shock cartridge. I have an auto seek AM radio out of my 71 that works fine that I would trade even up for a good strut. I only need the strut, no spring or cartridge or any of the other hardware. I would like it if the strut cartridge was already removed so I don't have to worry about trashing another one. Thanks, Chris.

I just installed a pair of ball joints on my 71 240Z that i bought from Motorsport Auto and they look just like yours. No zirk, and sealed of course. Also, the first thing I noticed was that my original ball joints had a castle nut and cotter pin. I thought I would re-use the castle nut and drill my own hole through the stud, except that the diameter of the new stud is much smaller than the original. So, I go ahead and start trying to assemble these using the cheesy "nylon locking nut" only to find out that when I try to bolt the whole assembly to the bottom of the strut, the stud on the new ball joint is about 1/4" too long, so my hack saw took care of that. Well, at least the taperd part of the ball joint stud seems to be correct in size and dimension. Since I am in the process of restoring this car and the front end is basically gutted, I won't know how these ball joints work out for awhile. My next set will come from Nissan no matter what they cost.

So this kit claims it drops 1-1.5", but from what I have been reading here and other forums it's even more. I was going to order 17x7 Konig Imagine wheels this week, but I think I will wait until all four shocks are installed and it's on the ground. Thanks for all the info and advice everyone.

Yes, lowering springs and struts.

71 240z. I just started assembling my first "lowered spring kit" and I'm curious. Is it normal for me to NOT have to compress the front springs when I re-assemble the whole thing? I've double checked to make sure I have the front spring with the front strut cartridge and everything seems to be correct.

I went ahead and ordered a used on through Zcarsource. Thanks.

Here it is.

This car was hit on the front left before I ever owned it. Of course I didn't notice this until I pulled the fenders and the motor and the whole front suspension to start the resto. The left control arm is slightly bent. The mechanic that will do the alignment looked at it said it will cause issues with camber or something like that. I'm replacing all of the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and the springs and shocks. Whats another 50-70 bucks.

For instance, Black Dragon lists the lower control arm as the "right" one. It doesn't say it's right and left. I kind of wondered if they were the same part, but then why would they list it as right side? Other distributors list it this way also. Cut me some slack, it's my first Z. Thanks though.

Why can't I find a new left control arm anywhere? Every distributor I check stocks only the right control arm. Any ideas? Thanks.

You were right. It was the pop-up blocker. Thanks!