Mikes Z car

Thank you bpilati, hopefully someone else can use the information. Mike

The flux capacitor is only used for the anti gravity drive. Since he didn't say the anti gravity isn't working I would have to assume it is working fine.

I did that one morning about 1 AM with a Triumph GT6. Fortunately there was almost no other traffic at the time. I felt like I had to really pay attention to what I was doing though.

I remember seeing that 240Z in that video. I think I remember now that they owned one.

On my car there are two connectors one for each of the two white/red wires above the passenger's right knee, '70 240Z.

I have been leaving my hood unlatched until I get around to putting a backup release on. Thanks for the ideas on making a backup release.

This is going to sound ridiculous but I have had the idea of someday building an early Z look alike on a bicycle frame by using my existing early Z as a form. I don't know if the end result would be strong enough but have thought about covering my existing Z with a plastic sheet and putting maybe paper mache over that with a thin fiberglass veneer over that and then pedal the whole thing around. Well, I said it was going to sound ridiculous!

Junkyards and Z fenders at the side of the road do count. I used to see an orange 240Z here with a license plate that said something about Suzy. Not sure of spelling. It looked to be in great condition. Someone was sitting in the parking lot near my daily driver car in a gold 280ZX that was in excellent condition a year ago. They must have kept it garaged.

Hi all, I put in an access door for the large fuel vapor hose that connects on top of the back of the gas tank making it easier to change out the hose. After dropping the tank to change that leaking hose I realized I wanted easier access to that hose though I recognize it might be a while before it needs replacing again. I figure anything that makes upkeep easier prolongs the life of the car. I put an aluminum rod approx 1/4" DIA about 10 inches long into the part of the hose that connects to the gas tank that was to be bent into a "U" shape to keep the hose from kinking and closing off. I verified this after bending by blowing through the hose. The hose I used was not OEM. It is no doubt stouter than needed as it is rated for 350 PSI, marine use and is ethanol resistant. It fit fine on the tank though on the other end I had to slit one side with a hacksaw to get it to fit over the nylon hose connector at the fill tube. I clamped it on with a radiator clamp and sealed the slit with Seal All. The hose was stiff to install but should last a long time. Mike Final result, painted access door (other pictures taken before paint): View thru door (new hose):......................................................Door closed: Bottom view no tank:...............Access door seal: Access door hole location:........Original hose seen here: Fuel vapor hose I used (very stiff hose) (pictures of numbers seen on hose): Weatherhead 5/8" H10110 Made in USA 1008, MSHA 1C - 46/6: End view with ruler showing diameter: New hydraulic hose is a tad too big to allow grommet to fit in hole in car so I just pulled rubber grommet down the hose slightly and didn't use it. Hose is very strong (rated 350PSI), IMO doesn't need grommet: Seal All applied next to filler hose:

I guess this is one of them? Found it in their August archives.

Reminds me of my daily commute

Thanks for the write up and the great pictures.

What did you take apart?

I tend to think of anything that is reversible as being okay but depending on a person's skill level almost anything is reversible. I also like the idea of anything goes to overcome no longer avaialble parts.

Hi all, I need some help identifying convenient holes for spraying the interior of the rear frame rails and cross members with anticorrosion spray. The attached drawing made from the chassis dimension drawing and measurements made on my 70 240Z shows two holes under the carpet in the back of the rear deck that may be of use. I also know that there are two large suspension bolts on the bottom of what I am calling the front crossmember on each side that potentially could be taken out temporarily. Are there other holes? I don't know if the one the gas tank J Bolt goes through on the passenger side frame rail is big enough for any useful spraying. Thanks for any ideas on making this info more useful, I realize I will likely have to drill a few holes but want to minimize them and want to choose locations for them that do not require taking anything off of the car if anyone has any thoughts on that. I showed the drawing to someone who said where are the dimensions? Well the drawing is to scale and when I am done I will put it on my blog with dimensions in case this is of any use to someone else. Mike

Steve, From memory of another thread, on the moustache bar being flipped, the early 240Z had the diffy a few inches forward towards the front of the car compared to later 240Zs. This meant the half shafts came back from the diffy towards the wheel at an angle instead of straight out like on the later Zs. The change was supposed to reduce noise. This new setup apparently required the moustache bar to be flipped over 180 degrees around its length so it provided support further back than the original setup. Others I feel sure understand this better than me. Mike

I have an early 240Z (MFR 1/70) and I remember reading the moustache bar is flipped over for my car compared to yours meaning I think there would be much less room between the moustache bar and the suspension hangar for you than what is seen on my picture. Maybe you need a picture aimed straight up between the two? I might be the only one having difficulty figuring out exactly what you need to see. As I have rambled here you have helped me figure out what they meant by flipping the moustache bar over in converting my rear end setup to the setup you have for the later Z. Mike

I am curious, are the stem seals just a rubber part so they just pull off once the spring is compressed? If they are metal do they just unscrew to get them out?

Shortly after I changed out the rings on my 1st 240Z the cam started making a horrible screeching sound. With the valve cover off I saw the cam lobe closest to the firewall had no oil on it and looked dry. Couldn't see the problem so I re bent the spray bar a little (might have taken it off and stuck pins in the orrifces) and never had further trouble with it. Never could tell what caused it to stop oiling on that one lobe.

A thought I have had is that the bass response could be improved if there could be a flexible seal of some kind that would seal the speaker (acoustically if I can use that term) to the plastic trim piece. I don't know if ordinary closed cell glued to the speaker side of the rear plastic panel around the holes would work. I am going from memory on how my first 240Z sounded with its stock speaker, I haven't used the stock radio speaker yet in my current car as someone put in an aftermarket radio. Anyone here study speaker enclosures?

You are right, it is DXF. I have imported DXF into Sketchup Pro, haven't tried the others. My modeling skills are very limited. I can't do 3D anywhere near as well as you can. I do enjoy very much making 3D drawings if I can use them to illustrate something, to me that isn't work it is fun. 3D can really communicate a lot of information quickly I think. I have wondered if there is a way to make a better factory service manual by making a 3D drawing of the early Z that includes electrical and other systems that can be captured from certain angles (or zoomed in) as ordinary JPG pictures but that is way beyond anything I can do.

INST3D, Thanks for your drawing and posting the link with the pictures. I want to make a 3D drawing of the rear frame members to show where holes are for anti corrosion spraying and those pictures help a lot, though I still don't know if I can make the drawing. So many curves and angles in the frame for that part of the car. Is there a possibility when you get done you could export your drawing into DFX I think it is called so it could be loaded into sketchup? Thanks, Mike

Here are a few views of the spring hole. It is rather close to the spring to see a lot of it though. It might be easier to see if someone has a picture from the inside of the car with the cross hatched vinyl removed.

Not sure I am the guy to take the picture but for clarification, would you prefer a picture that is end on to the center of the brake drum? Would it be better to have the car weight on the brake drum so the angle of the suspension in the picture looks like it does when the car is on the road? I am glad to see someone working on a 3D model.

This is what my 240Z looks like in that area- MFR date Jan 1970.