Mikes Z car

HermanM, Could you see if you can catch the street address? I am looking through my old files, not sure I know what the plate was but I believe in California you keep the same plate when the car changes owners. If I can find the old plate in my records that would tell me if it is the same car. The VIN would too, I would have to write to the owner and ask about that, I do have a record of the VIN, HLS30-41545, an 8/71 car.

HermanM, Are any of them painted a dark blue? I sold a 240Z in Sacramento back in 1985, still hoping to find it. That car was originally orange but got painted blue by the next owner. Mike

Here are a couple of screen captures from 5 Star Day: I hope this is considered fair use, I am not all that knowledgeable on copyright laws. I think I saw that movie a while back. The pictures aren't in HD though so some detail is lost. Saw a white 240Z yesterday, first time I have seen that one, it wasn't too far from my house. Saw a 280ZX in the JY.

Not only extra points at the concourse but admiring glances at your great pictures and appreciation for your sharing!

275 Z and K car owners are now headed for your house, ready for the pool. We are at 45 with light rain so can't complain at all.

I have wondered for years if there was a cheap alternative. What did you discover? I have wondered if it might be possible to slather (this would not look nice) (isn't slather a nice word?) black silicone rubber all over an existing one with holes.

In my understanding a problem with short lived LEDs is that the designer typically selects too low of a series resistance so the LEDs are driven with too much voltage (and therefore too much current) shortening the life quite a bit. That doesn't help much as there isn't an easy way to know which LEDs are being overdriven as far as I know just from reading the specifications. LEDs are supposed to last 100,000 hours similar to a transistor life if not overdriven though I would enjoy seeing a response from fastwoman or anyone else with possible alternative viewpoints on that.

One drink adds 5HP.

I can't help think that if a quart of motor oil in the tank on every oil change would stop the tank from rusting that that also would help stop ethanol corrosion.

What if the two wires on the turn switch for a right turn that go to the front light, the turn indicator and the rear light were temporarily shorted at the turn switch with a flat blade screwdriver with the ignition on and right turn selected while an assistant watched the front right light (and others) to see if all of the lights are now properly indicating a right turn. If all three of the right turn lights now work (including the indicator light) wouldn't it mean one of the contactors is bad on the switch. Is that Correct? Leaving the wires shorted would be bad as it would cause extra current to flow through the remaining good turn switch contactor.

This may or may not help with checking the switch. The picture immediately below is the backside of a turn signal switch, probably from a 1/1970 car. The wire colors may vary. Click to make readable. The picture below shows six contactors on the inside of the turn signal switch, three on the left and three on the right. The two contactors for right turn are the two lower right ones. One of the contactors feeds the front right light and the right turn indicator and the other contactor goes to the rear light. I don't know which ones does which. Click for animation.

I wonder if putting the slot on the end of the linkage that goes on the motor shaft 180 degrees out would cause the wipers to park pointing up?

You are welcome TimsZ. Here is a thread that describes sources for the front carpet snaps, I just checked and they are the same size as the ones for the ebrake boot. There may be other threads on snaps. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/50860-carpet-snaps-source-footwell.html

This is where the snaps are on a 1/1970 car. Looks like they are just riveted to the vinyl. I found new snaps at thrifty hardware that fit the front carpet snaps, from eyeball they look like the same size used here.

I had a clip that would not work that I got at the auto parts store because the wire was a bit too large in diameter and would bind in the two slots so when I put the handle on the clip would not spring closed, then the handle would fall off. (edit later- On my car the slots the clip would get stuck in was the ones on the handle) Would some kind of measurement assist you such as a caliper measurement of the depth to slot or something else? Though I am volunteering to help someone else may have a better idea and could provide better information.

If the slots are cut too close to the handle I wonder if either the recessed area in the crank could be slightly drilled out or maybe the end of the part on the door could be ground off to let the clips get closer to where they need to be?

A powerful magnet waved around just off the floor sometimes helps me find small metal parts. I usually put the magnet in a ziploc bag or wrap it in paper to keep metal particles from sticking to it that might be hard to get off. When I have the presence of mind to think of it in advance, I take small parts apart in the shower after I cover the drain. A clever spring can still vault over the shower door but not usually.

We FINALLY got a break today from the gray skies and below freezing inversion. It hit mid 40s today and is sunny. Yahoo!

I was wondering if it got pulled loose from the gauge light rheostat on the bottom edge of the dash since it doesn't seem to have a connector on it.

I wonder if the paint color is 918 orange? Looks darker to me though in the picture.

Now that I see how bad it is elsewhere I don't dare complain about our high of 27 today and light snow that so far is not sticking. Drat. Mike in Idaho

Blue, grannyknot, John Coffey, tlorber, Thanks for the great ideas. I did go buy a belt sander this morning before I saw all of the replies. I sometimes get stuck with the idea I have to use what I have at hand. I will remember all of the ideas for other work later on. Mike

Hi all, I cut an 8X12 inch piece of sheet metal out of a parts car using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and a jigsaw for a couple of small spots where the angle grinder couldn't reach. The resulting edge where both machines cut is irregular, how can the edge be made straighter or cut straighter in the first place so it looks nice? I could use a long hand file for the finished edge but I am hoping there is a better way. Mike

Today I painted the 240z back floor "hunter green" a spray paint color from thrifty hardware similar to the original #907 green for my car. Last summer I scraped off the tar material that was back there so I painted it today so it would not be bare metal. I thought it was interesting that most of the metal was shiny and rust free underneath that tar stuff. I know it is like undercoat but I didn't think it was supposed to be much protection.

Wish I had been there I would have enjoyed seeing her start up. Thanks for sharing.