Zforce

That looks like a auto trans dizzy (dual point), you need one from a manual trans car.

Removing the timing cover is pretty straight forward, what you want to do is try not to damage the head gasket that will be left after you get the cover off. If you are not careful it will be leak oil. Also the front face of the block has to be absulutely clean or you will have even more leaks, water and oil.

If you are talking about turning the engine by the cam sprocket bolt yeah that's a bad idea, you want to keep the tight side of the timing chain tight at all times.

I beg to differ ha ha.

You want to retain some sort of balance tube so just get a early one.

The colder the x-ray table is the more you need to be on it.

Mallory pumps can be problematic if you don't use the matching 400 micron filter, trash in fuel will jam them up do to the gear rotor design.

Never tried it but lots of folks reccommend a Mazda rx7 pump from a early 80's model carburated car.

Sounds like your alternator is not charging, get a volt meter and check the voltage at the battery, it should read about 14.5 volts with the engine running.

During the 1999 cart season I went to the first race at the Chicago Motor Speedway and watched the race from the Players racing paddock, they asked me if I would be interested in coming to the last race of the season at Fontana but something in my gut said pass and I ended up not going. Later that evening one of my buddies called me and told me the bad news about Greg Moore, I was totally shocked and to think I would have been there watching from the pits would have been horrifying.

You can pre oil the engine through the dizzy hole with a long 3/8 flat wood drill bit. Take the bit and file down the edges making it dull, remove the oil pump drive spindle, replace pump, chuck the bit into a drill, set it to reverse. should not take more than a few seconds for oil pressure to build.

Yep sounds like dry rotted valve guide seals, who built your motor ? And what oil are you using ? and don't say synthetic.

Have you checked the the last chance filters in the carbs ? Su's run best slightly rich, also the stock fuel filter is a restriction. Another thing to check for is kinks in the rubber portions of the fuel lines and dents in the metal portions. Fuel system problems are often mistaken for ignition problems, no fuel of course there will be no ignition Doh!

Ok, if you are using the autometer then you need to get the proper sending unit for that gauge and try 10/40 weight and see what happens.

What wieght oil are you using ? And you said you are using an autometer electric oil pressure gauge are you using the stock sending unit or the autometer unit ? And I don't think changing your oil filter will make any difference if you have not bypassed the oil filter relief valve.