Zforce

That looks like a auto trans dizzy (dual point), you need one from a manual trans car.

Removing the timing cover is pretty straight forward, what you want to do is try not to damage the head gasket that will be left after you get the cover off. If you are not careful it will be leak oil. Also the front face of the block has to be absulutely clean or you will have even more leaks, water and oil.

If you are talking about turning the engine by the cam sprocket bolt yeah that's a bad idea, you want to keep the tight side of the timing chain tight at all times.

I beg to differ ha ha.

You want to retain some sort of balance tube so just get a early one.

The colder the x-ray table is the more you need to be on it.

Mallory pumps can be problematic if you don't use the matching 400 micron filter, trash in fuel will jam them up do to the gear rotor design.

Never tried it but lots of folks reccommend a Mazda rx7 pump from a early 80's model carburated car.

Sounds like your alternator is not charging, get a volt meter and check the voltage at the battery, it should read about 14.5 volts with the engine running.

During the 1999 cart season I went to the first race at the Chicago Motor Speedway and watched the race from the Players racing paddock, they asked me if I would be interested in coming to the last race of the season at Fontana but something in my gut said pass and I ended up not going. Later that evening one of my buddies called me and told me the bad news about Greg Moore, I was totally shocked and to think I would have been there watching from the pits would have been horrifying.

You can pre oil the engine through the dizzy hole with a long 3/8 flat wood drill bit. Take the bit and file down the edges making it dull, remove the oil pump drive spindle, replace pump, chuck the bit into a drill, set it to reverse. should not take more than a few seconds for oil pressure to build.

Yep sounds like dry rotted valve guide seals, who built your motor ? And what oil are you using ? and don't say synthetic.

Have you checked the the last chance filters in the carbs ? Su's run best slightly rich, also the stock fuel filter is a restriction. Another thing to check for is kinks in the rubber portions of the fuel lines and dents in the metal portions. Fuel system problems are often mistaken for ignition problems, no fuel of course there will be no ignition Doh!

Ok, if you are using the autometer then you need to get the proper sending unit for that gauge and try 10/40 weight and see what happens.

What wieght oil are you using ? And you said you are using an autometer electric oil pressure gauge are you using the stock sending unit or the autometer unit ? And I don't think changing your oil filter will make any difference if you have not bypassed the oil filter relief valve.

How can you be sure the engine was overheating ? did the radiator boil over ? If you put engine degreaser on the motor that will certainly cause smoking but only for a few seconds till it burns off. Did you just replace the carbs or the whole intake ? does your intake manifold circulate water though the carbs or just the intake ? Not sure I understand what sqweezing the radiator hose is going to do besides burning your skin off.

Yeah at about 11:00, if its point down your 180 deg out.

Your standing on the drivers side looking down the hole.

You actually fit the spindle by trial and error till you get the drive tang at the 11:25 position when looking down the dizzy hole with #one at tdc, the dots are for reference since the dizzy will either be right or 180 deg out. If you look at your dizzy you will see the drive tang slot is off center so the dizzy will only fit one way.

You are saying you cant get to any of the bolts at all with the heat sheild in place ?

If you can remove all of the hold down washers and the bolts on top of the manifold you should be able to remove the intake manifold with heat shield still in place.

I just did this yesterday on my carburated Z. There are no snags to worry about, it's just time consuming, it took about four hours including picking my kids up from school. The gasket I got was the stock gasket for a fuel injected Z so I did not use any sealer. If it was a paper gasket I would use copper spray, the old one was like that and it lasted for about 6 years.

Today I changed the intake/exhaust gasket, gasket blew on the intake side of #6 cylinder. Also replaced the drive shaft yesterday. After I did the gasket I had to do a quick test drive and get some gas, wile I was gasing up this guy walks up checking out my car and says he had a 260 back in the day then he starts smelling my engine, Z-car freaks are wierd.

No, whatever was working before will work with any trans. Transmissions are the same, location of the diff determines what drive shaft to use.

There is no syncro on first or reverse, but usually if you are moving it should be hard to engage first then you would just get second as you were already moving. If gears clash at a stand still it could be the clutch adjustment or clutch spin.