Zforce

It's a 3 maybe 4 hour job with the proper tools (kd tools 3087) valve spring compressor,magnetic screwdriver and about 10 feet of nylon rope, I used clothesline rope from the supermarket. You DO NOT need to remove the Cam, the hardest part of this project is finding the proper valve spring compressor. I found one on ebay for about 40.00 dollars. What you have to be carefull of is making sure you get the valve retainer collets out without losing them down the engine especially on cylinders 1 and 6, stuff a rag down the timing chain before you begin. Start with cylinder 1 and continue in the firing order and before you attempt to compress the valvespring smack the retainer with a socket and a hammer to losen the collets. As you replace the valve seals use the litttle valve stem condoms that come with the new seals and place it over the valve stem,lightly oil the seal and push in on, you should feel a click when it bottoms out around the valve stem. Also as you go DO NOT mix up the rockers or the lash pads very important otherwise you will be pulling the cam in short order. As a preemptive measure take a coupe of ibuprofen tablets or the painkiller of your choice because your back is going to kill you.

When you set your mixture using the color tune that was at idle so it probably was set perfectly for idle not as you are driving down the road. If you are in fact leaning out at speed many things can cause that. start looking at the fuel system as a hole starting from the fuel tank moving forward. The engine should be the last thing you mess with. If you start screwing with the engine you will most likley mess things up worse than before you started, by begining at the back of the car you will probably find the problem before ever touching the engine. Most of the time clogged fuel lines and filters are the problem especially the fuel lines, what do need to make a fire ? air,heat and FUEL good luck.

Try the sm needles, I had a simmillar problem the sm's cured, 30.00 for a pair at ZT.

You could still have a bad U-joint in the driveshaft or an improperly installed one, happened to me once. Also when you took it apart to install the RT mount did you match mark the flanges before you removed the driveshaft ? sometimes they only work right one way. You could try reinstalling the driveshaft in different positions and test drive it and see if you notice a difference.

You can think about it but don't do it.

After looking at your wiring photo in post # 10 you simply do not have the pertronix hooked up correctly. I would bet that's why the tach is not working. Best advice, start from scratch and try again.

I don't see how a resistor would work since all the power to the ignition runs through the tach. Exactly how did you wire up the Pertronix ? The red wire from the pertronix should get the full 12 volts from the black wire with the black plastic sheath, since you got the 3 ohm coil bundle all three wires, 12v ignition, red wire from pertronix and the green current sensing wire from the tach, the other black wire goes to coil positve and the black wire from pertronix to the negative. Another test would to put the stock coil back with the ballast resistor, if the problem goes away I would get the 1.5 ohm coil and run it just like stock, thats how I run mine and never had a problem.One other thing you might try is running an extra ground wire from the distributor to the engine block and retain the ground wire inside the distributor.

Those can get pretty rusty but I never had a problem with the channel locks.

Yes that could cause a thunk, try putting a washer or two down the strut tube. As for tightening just use a big pair of channel locking pliers.

I think that's supposed to hold the shoulder belt.

Pretty sure Pertronix is a hall effect trigger.

Definitely get rid of the green tape with epoxy.

That is strange, I never noticed that before but looks like all f54 blocks have those bosses drilled and tapped for something that may have been used in a different market in some other nissan variant. If it does not interfere with the oil filter I wouldnt worry about it.

whatever

It's called a breaker plate

Sounds like you are running lean on top,I had the same problem. Try the sm jet needles from ZT,only 30.00 dollars. Also try running without the air filter cover and see if the bog goes away, I bet it's also choking at high rpm. I bought an air filter housing off ebay with holes drilled in it, since it was already swiss cheesed I made the holes even larger what a difference.

Line boring is not nessesary with a deep skirt engine block, save that for a chevy. Jury is out on decking.

KYB keep-your-bilsteins

Could be an open circuit on the armature,commom problem with cheap rebuilt starters. Your are better off getting an original starter from a wrecked car at the junk yard.

Is it a manual ? Could be the clutch slipping, what happens when you step on the clutch pedal ?

The pacesetter header is a comedy of errors, like the Pontiac Aztec. How in hell did it make it into production and even more rediculous is how it stayed in production. The only thing more usless is a pet rock. The first time I used the pacesetter I did not notice the thin flange until I tried to install it, but since the engine was on the stand and I wasn't in a rush I just ground down one side of the washer to make it rest evenly, but with very limited sucess. It leaked pretty bad so I replaced it with a tri mil, no leaks for going on seven years.

Blow-by,scored cylinder walls, low compression, poor gas milage. Never heard of a test performed after tear down.

Yeah your going to get some blow-by ha ha.

Reusing piston rings is like reusing a condom.

Just plug the hole with a pipe plug and forget it.