Zforce

Ha ha, she must be blond.

Sorry Yorgo, that one not funny.

Well it wasn't today but last week I did the valve guide seals, but it took about three weeks to finally do the job because I could not find that kd tools 3087 valve spring compressor anywhere. I found one on ebay still new in the wrapper for 41.00, as soon as it arrived I got out there and did the job in about 4.5 hours, had to pull the radiator to get a socket on the crank so that took a little more time. I used the rope in the plug hole method, worked perfectly.

If you are getting 12 volts at the -side of the coil your points are closed, coil fires when current stops flowing. Take a small screwdriver and open the points, I bet you get a spark, in that case try resetting your point gap. Also the rubbing block on the point set needs to be lubed with point grease, if you don't your point dwell will continue to deteriorate till the car stops again.

I got some springs like that at a salvage yard and just figured they were from msa. The only markings on them were little paper tags that looked like they were made with an old typewriter that said front and rear.

84-86 mustang svo was pretty quick. Turbo 2.3 liter PINTO engine 210 hp and with some mods good for 400 hp. Not bad for PINTO engine, Buick also had thier Grand Nat with the 87 model having 276 hp. I think if you drop the Grand Nat engine into a Z you would have a pretty demented car that would smoke a Roush, Saleen or otherwise Mustang.

In a word POWER. In two words POWER and TORQUE.

If it works don't fix it.

#17121 12/70

Very cool, mine was built Dec 1970 #17121, same color blue except mine also has blue interior, good luck.

Those so called air intakes are actually the bowl vents, all carburators have them and should not be plugged. There must be atmospheric pressure on top of the fuel for it to be drawn into the airflow through the venturi (Bernoulli's Principle).

I don"t think anyone has mentioned it but have you oiled the tube that holds the damper oil where it contacts the dome ? Lack of lubrication in this area will cause the suction piston to stick.

What exacty happens at 60 mph ? are you accellerating or cruising ? If you back off slightly can you inch it up past 60 ? What type of fuel filter are you using ? I don't care what anybody says the stock filter is a restriction. Also are your rubber fuel lines in good condition ? A leak doesnt necessarily have to leak fuel onto the ground, it can suck air and cause a high speed lean condition. what type of air cleaner do you have ? the stock filter housing is good at low speed but also can be a restiction, I punched a series of 1 inch holes around the filter cover and it cured the high speed power loss like what you are expierencing. One last thing, have you checked to be sure there is no crud clogging up your fuel lines or if there is a kink in the rubber or dent in the hard lines ? And another thing, there could be a hole in the fuel pickup tube inside the fuel tank.

If the parts store is out of the K&N the Fram HP-1 is ok. The K&N and the Fram HP-1 are the only ones I have seen with a really thick filter can. If I can deform the filter can with my hand it's not going on my engine, I don't car who makes it. The best filter in the world doesnt mean squat if it blows off the engine. I use the ZX turbo pump with the filter bypass valve in the block plugged so i'm not taking any chances with a cheap filter and 80 psi.

K&n 3001

Pretty sure there is a red 280Z parked in front of the Double Douche in Road House.

Hammer and chiizzzle

I have been using the same gasket for about 7 years with no leaks, either the header was not torqued down properly or the header flange is warped. Even a crappy paper gasket will work if it's sealed properly with an even amount of torque on the hold down nuts. If there is even the slightest amount of warp or a loose holddown nut exhaust gas will burn through like a blow torch. I use permatex copper gasket spray on both sides of a paper gasket, then after running the engine and letting it cool snug the nuts again and do that a few times.

You can put a fuel pressure gauge inside the car using an isulator type pressure gauge. The fuel pressure works against a diapham that moves a non flammable fluid through the line to the gauge so no fuel is ever inside the car,autometer makes one.

So right,totally forgot about that.

There is a thread on hybrid Z about using a ford type of valve guide seal that is supposed to be very good if the problem is in fact valve guide seals. In my expierence with my engine it was not fully broken in till about 5 thousand miles. I also used cast iron rings but never used a synthetic oil,but if I was I still would not use it for at least 5 thousand miles, it's just too slippery for a new engine. When I read over your original post again i got to thinking if it smokes for a short time after starting the engine wile hot it has to be valve guide related, oil is dripping down past the valve and pooling up on top of a piston. It's probably only one cylinder doing it or maybe the seals were not installed properly. Or maybe thier just dryed out and need to be replaced, not uncommon for a car not drivin regularly.

Never break in a new engine on synthetic oil, the rings wont bed in properly.

1500 miles ? that motor hasn't broken in yet so your rings might not be seated or are sticking.

Try rotating your tires and see if the problem goes away, also check your front wheel bearings, they could be loose. One of your wheels could be bent too.

I do not,but what I did notice was these cars seem to handle well when the control arms are more or less parallel to the ground with a slight amount of negative camber.