Zforce

This might sound nutty but when I replaced my old springs with new ones from MSA I thought it was going to lower the car by one inch, WRONG it actually raised it up an inch. I did not consider 38 year old springs were already saggy. The real benefit was the stiffness, not so much lowering the car.

I think the first year RX7 is 1979 or any RX7 with a carburator

I'll take an earthquake over any other natural disaster,and now for the weather Hurricane Elvis has reached catagory 5 and is headed your way and will be there in two days, forget it. At least with an earthquake its over before you know it.

Carter makes a decent electric fuel pump 4-6 psi for about 75.00 no regulator required. I would still use one though along with a relay and saftey cutoff switch.

Ignition module ?

The holes in the pump are there to equalize the pressure on both sides of the diapham, it so happens that when the diapham fails it will leak fuel and dribble out of the hole (no pun intended) If there is oil present you probably need a new insulator and gaskets.

No thank you, I never get any love around here, I'm glad I was able to help, good luck with your beloved Z car.

I like the MSD Deutsch connectors, you can order them through Jegs. You can't go wrong with Jegs.

Check your nozzles, maybe they are not dropping when you pull the choke. They can definitely stick from lack of use when gas dries up.

Just got back from Porsche Cayenne training semminar at the Barber Motorsports Park In Burmingham Alabama, holy sh**t that was fun. Got to drive all the new Porsche Cayenne's and test them against BMW X5 and X6, Mercedes ML-550, Range Rover Sport Supercharged and the Infiniti FX-50 plus a bonus Panamera. If you ever get to Alabama I highly recommend visiting the Barber Motorsports Park and museum. George Barber not to be confused with Skip Barber has the most incredible collection of motorcycle's and vintage racing cars I have ever seen, plus the race track is awesome, I got to drive all the cars flat out as fast as I could. All the cars did very well except the Range Rover, the brakes over heated and warped the front rotors. And that was on the first day, Porsche is conducting the semminars for the next week, I don't think the Range will hold up. The BMW's were pretty good but the X6 kept hitting the rev limiter because it's very easy to hit the paddle shifters accidently putting the transmission in manual mode so it wont upshift. The worst handing car was a toss up between the Range and the Benz, I'm not sure why the Infiniti Was in the comparison. By far the best car and not because I sell them was the Cayenne Turbo with dynamic chassis control, Porsche torque vectoring and ceramic composite brakes. All I can say is good Lord.

After watching your tach go wacky I have to believe it has more to do with ignition, like a short somewhere, or maybe you are not getting a minimum of 12 volts at the ignition on wire. Have you checked that wire with a volt meter ? With the engine running there should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts on that wire, especially if you are running the pertronix. Also make sure those connectors are tight.

I think you just need to put more miles on it, rebuilt engines expierence alot of friction in the cylinders between the piston rings and the freshly honed cylinder wall. Untill the rings bed in it's going to run hot. I installed an electric cooling fan that helped alot plus late night runs up and down the interstate.

When removing old hose I like to cut it lenthwise but not too deep, just enough to break the grip. Also be sure to use hose rated for fuel injection.

Are you saying the timing chain tensioner has popped out ? If you are there is no other way to get it back in without removing the front cover. If everything is ok and all you want to do is tighten the bolt just put the trans in fourth gear, chock the tires and torque the cam sprocket bolt to 130 ft-lbs.

I would also like to know what is the largest size needle valve that will fit because I too have thought about the small size of the replacement needle valves that are availabe being a restriction. Just eyeballing, it appears the fuel hose to the jet nozzle is larger so a healthy motor could easily drain the float bowls causing high speed lean out and stumble above 4k rpm.

I have 3:70 gears in mine buy never got the proper speedo drive gear so it reads about 10 mph faster that actual. If i'm indicating 80 my rpms are about 3900 or 4000, if I step on it and let it rev to 5000 it reads 105.

How many miles are on the rebuilt engine ? Mine ran hot for about 300 miles during the break in process. Your temps will stabilize and power will go up slightly after the engine breaks in.

Its ok just don't let it drain all the way out, you just gotta be quick theading the brake lines back on.

It's been awhile since I did mine but I do not recall removing the caps on the side of the m/c, I did it just like your pic shows.

You still have to "bench bleed" it, but by doing it in the car you can hand pump the brake pedal and do the so called bench bleed much easier.

Install it first then bleed it, much easier to do in the car. Bench bleeding is a figure of speech.

Z trans are pretty light, you can bench press it into position no problem.

1100 dollars ? why are they so much? I got my trans from a wrecking yard for 175.00 then had it rebuilt for 300.00 and put it in myself so is that 1100 the installed price for a rebuilt tranny ?

The problem is on the early trans it's a three piece type, seperate bellhousing, gearbox and extension housing. Held togehter with long bolts so engine torque causes flexing of the gearbox which leads to bearing failure,espcially if you like to downshift. B type is only two piece, bellhousing and gearbox are one unit, much stronger. So you have your choice 4 or 5 speed and better shifter linkage. I went with the four speed because at the time I could not find a good 5 speed and time was an issue.

Your counter shaft bearings are going bad, the later B type trans is much stronger. I can understand your wanting to keep the car all original, but sooner or later you are going to have to ask yourself what is more important, an all original car you can't drive or a car that you have made all the proper improvements to correct what the factory already did on later model cars. Plus nobody is going to fault you for making the car better,and it wont detract from the value of the car. If you are worried save that trans, just don't use it for daily driving. I rebuilt my original trans twice before thowing in the towel.