Zforce

Dealer installed anti vibration damper thingy supposed to cut noise and vibration for those who complained.

One bearing shell has a small hole in it, make shure it goes on the block side of the first bearing jurnal, it feeds oil to the timing chain tensioner.

I put the needles in but have not had the time to evaluate them yet. I still need to do some tuning first. One thing I noticed it idles alot better and there is way less fumes. After installing the SM needles I had to crank down the idle speed and it seems to idle best 3 1/2 turns out on the mix nuts.

In looking at your sig you say first and third owner of HLS30-00721, I think you are the second owner unless the second guy sold it to someone else before you right. I got a stock air filter housing off ebay for 20.00 with some holes drilled in the top of the cover, since it already had holes in it I decided to drill some more and I did notice a big difference in performance. As long as the air has to go through a medium no matter what it is it's a restriction. If there was enough room under the hood you could stack another filter on top to get more surface area, that might help.

My car does the exact same thing, If you are driving in town there is no problem, but take it on the highway deep in the throttle and BAM, between 4k and 5k it falls flat. And like you said lift up a bit and it gets better. I got a stock air cleaner off ebay with some holes drilled in the top of the housing, it was only 20.00 bux so I tried it and picked up about another 500 rpm but the bog is still there. So today I orderd a pair of SM jet needles from Ztherapy and will give them a try.

Sounds like either an intake valve is burnt or way out of adjustment (too tight)

I guarantee the second you guys stop referring to your cars as gal, she and her it will cost you much less and you will get more enjoyment out your car and it wont break down. Don't believe me try it. No offense to any GAL's on the forum.

Get a rope.

I just assumed he meant hls-30 so excuze me ha ha...

You might try zcarparts.com last I checked under 300.00

Well it's not normal but it seems normal to early Z's. Problem is low output of alternator at idle, one cure is to replace with later model 60 amp interally regulated alternator, MSA has a kit available as well as zspecialties.

Have you checked the exhaust system ? Your muffler could be clogged.

Depends on what you want done, sure a basic valve job could cost about 450.00 but a performance valve job along with setting up a new cam will definatly be up around 900.00 to 1200.00 or more. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go ?

Sounds like it's running way too lean, will it run better with the choke on ? Years ago I got a smog check and the exact same thing happened, car passed smog but would not move so I richened it up back to where it was and no problem.

Sounds like the E.G.R. valve, both types of headers are available. If you are not worried about emissions get the one without the E G R hook up and bypass the valve.

I don't think there is such a thing as a federal smog header. Just be sure to get the proper header for the cylinder head that you have, some are square port others are round. Stock 280Z should have n42 head which is square. From expierence some smog inspectors will fail a car with a header regardless simply because it is not stock and does not matter if emissions equipment is hooked up or not.

All I can say is wow, the best 10.00 plus the 2.00 admission to the salvage yard I have spent. The yard I went to had to kia's, I got the left side off one and the right from the other. Took all of ten minutes to install. GREAT

Could be no damper oil in carbs too.

The electric fuel pump was installed to help prevent vapor locking issue, all first gen carb'd Z's have the wiring and if original buyer complained about vapor lock the dealer would install the electric fuel pump. I think at some point the came from the factory that way. But I don't think the pump will operate unless the engine is running. On a stock engine there is no benefit to removing the mechanical pump. Maybe someone else will chime in with more info. If I were going to install an electric fuel pump in place of the original I would wire it with a relay direct off the battery with a oil pressure safety switch and not use the factory wiring, something about 40 year old wires and gas kinda scars me.

What I meant was better syncromesh of the gears, and like I said I rebuilt the thing twice before a gave up on the A trans. I got tired of it jumping out of gear, grinding between 1st and 2nd and bearing noise though 1 and 3rd gears. Downshifting is what was causing torque flexing and bearing failure. That on top of sloppy shifter feel. Since installing the B trans I have all but forgotten about whole transmission issue and that was over 12 years ago. P.S. and those are not claims they are pure fact from my own personal experience.

Super heavy nasty thick grease on a wooden stick works too.

That's easy, use type "B" ha ha but seriously latter type B solves many problems inherent to the A trans, I rebuilt mine twice before I woke up and got a 280Z trans. Better shifter feel even with stock bushings, b type is one piece bellhousing and gearbox which solves problem of torque flexing and counter shaft bearing failure of three piece unit. Syncros are better too.

It's a noise suppessor for the radio, wont hurt anything without it. If you don't hear any noise coming though the stereo don't worry about it.

No it is not grounded, sounds like you need a new one. 1.5 ohms. If you are running points you cannot bypass it.

Could be the switch, but check your wiring with a volt meter. The black wire with the black plastic sheath should have 12 volts in the run position and should be connected to the ballast resistor and green and yellow wire should be on the other end of the ballast resistor. The other black wire that goes to the positive side of the coil should have about 8 or 9 volts in the run position and 12 volts in the crank posistion. Hope this helps.