Zforce

I'm using a mallory dizzy that's in good condition so I think it is sensitive to voltage fluctuations especially with the external voltage regulator alternator. Soon I am going to upgrade the alternator and test it again and see what happens.

I got a starter from the bone yard 5 years ago for 15.00$ money well spent. Get one from an 81 to 83 ZX and you will be fine.

Ok I checked mine and it's sitting at 37 degrees and drops to 35 when I rev it.

90 to 100 ft lbs or whatever is humanly possable with some red loctite on the threads. As for the timing mark with a new chain set to the #2 hole most likely will set your cam advanced. It will be a torque monster down low but might run out of steam on top.

Ok, what if the dwell is out of spec, how can you adjust it ? Is dwell determined by the distance between the trigger magnets or by the transistor in the ignitor module ? I am also trying to pin down the mystery brick wall at about 4k revs, I am not sure if its ignition or fuel but it is driving me nuts. Pertronix claims the ignitor II has adaptive dwell which is supposed to optimize dwell at all rpms buy I have a feeling its all BS. I have the pertronix installed in a mallory duel point dizzy my next project will be to upgrade it to a unilite if I cant get the pertronix to work right. I will check the dwell and report back what I get tomorrow.

you will see the dashpot and the control valve bolted to the balance tube beween the carbs more toward the front carb. try disconnecting the vacuum line to the dashpot and plug the line then drive the car and see if that helps.

If your car is stock there is a decelleration valve, designed to allow the rpms to drop slowly to help reduce emmissions. When the control valve goes bad sometimes the rpms will hang a little high or not return to idle at all.

The tape is just kind of worn/slightly torn from contact with the block, so I am leaving it 'As Is' for now. If it gets too bad, I will just re-tape it. I think the tape is just a secondary restraint for the magnets. I glued the trigger magnets in place with zap a gap CA glue, better than that cheap tape. But don't just take the magnets out,if you get the poles wrong the engine will miss. I carefully peeled back the tape and put a dab of white nail polish on each magnet and let it dry before removing the magnets to ensure they go back in correctly. Use the thick gap filling kind available at your local hobby shop. PS that tape is all that holds those magnets in place.

I use a mallory dual point dist with the pertronix ignitor and 1.5 ohm coil and stock ballast resistor with no problems. If your engine is not revving past a certain point it could be low voltage at the ignition run wire where the red wire from the pertronix goes. One thing I noticed with the pertronix upgrade for the stock dist is the trigger magnets are closer together than they are on the mallory setup, the mallory dist is much larger than stock so I thought there might be spark scattering under the cap at high rpm. I don't know just a thought.

I just weighed my old 240 crank,48 lbs

Phred,you the man.

Bad idea,might set up a stress riser and lead to a crack.

Since you guys are talking about Pertronix,anyone have trouble with the chessy green tape holding the magnets in place? I got tried of the tape peeling off so I fixed it with gap filling zap-a-gap ca glue from the hobby shop. What you have to do is peel the tape back and put a dab of white paint on the magenets to maintain proper orientation,when you have all six magnets painted you can glue them in place. Way easy.

Are you lubing the rubbing block with grease? Without the grease your timing will retard in short order.Mallory sells points lube in a tube (no pun intended) at any good speed shop.

Maybe the pick up tube in the tank has a small hole in it,have you looked at it with a full tank of fuel?

Those seats look bigger than the car,do the doors close?

Motorsport should have that part,be careful on installation,sharp edges on door will hack your arms to pieces.

Try this

If the engine was running before you removed the old dizzy and you didn't mess with the drive spindle you will be fine.Dizzy only fits one way in relation to spindle,drive tang on spindle is machined offset so it will only fit one way.

The calibraited feel comes from years of experience,what I mean is if you are going to take a grinder to it let someone who has done a few.Especially if he does not have a flow bench to check his work.It really is best to let a pro with the proper facilities do it right the first time.My mild street prepped E-31 cost 1100.00 ten years ago,so ported and polished today I would quess about 2-3k.But as I have said before opinions are like A-holes everyone has one good luck.

That seems high,I got an E-31 head for 15.00.Did they know what it was or would that be the price for any shifter? What about the head did you get that too?

I did not know you can by-pass the module and simply use the stock reluctor as a magnetic pick up to trigger the msd,that is excellent.

No I used to work for The Auto Gallery in woodland hills,but due to the current economic situation I got fired,laid off,or whatever you want to call it. I know the sales manager at Beverly Hills so I might get back into it,but I'm just no sure right now.

What engine you have?.... I am laughing my arse off.Is that really you in the avitar?

Yeah,what are going to trigger the msd with?