Chart505

I installed the black dragon kit. The doors were very hard to close for the first week or so. I am about 2 months into it and the door are about back to normal now. Just takes some time.

So I would still like an opinion from those with experience with these issue - sound like a valve or rings? Based on what I have read, if the comp only goes up 10psi with the oil test that does not seem conclusive for bad rings.

Ive done some research on this- most tech forums indicate that if the rings are worn, the compression should come up significantly (30 to 40 psi) with the oil test. Mine only came up about 10 psi, so I am assuming I have a leaky valve, although could also be the head gasket, although there is no oil or water leaking.

So what's the verdict on the compression going from 90 to 100 with the "oil squirt" test? Bad rings in the cyl or think it's a valve? Rather do a head than an entire rebuild.

Did the oil test. went up from 90 to 100. Did it twice just to check. Not much of an increase, is this conclusive? So valve or rings?

Thanks I will try the oil test tonight and post results. I was wondering if 150 is a decent compression number for the 1975 motor. I believe the motor was lower compression in 75 for emissions reasons.

75 280. Engine seemed like it was running a little weak. Did the cyl by cyl pull the plug and injector test to isolate. #2 cylinder seemed to be the issue. Did compression test, that was about 90 PSI in #2 while rest were in 150 +/- range. Car does use some oil (blue smoke) when under hard revving, but not under normal driving. Does not leak. Temp runs fine. Oil press is fine. I was under impression if you had bad rings or valves the compresssion would be zero, not just down about a third. Anyways, would seem to explain why the engine seemed to have a little less power that before. Has 110K on it, very regular maint, oil changes, etc. I have owned several of these cars and 110K is usually not alot of miles. My questions: 1)Does this sound like it's time for a valve job, ring job or both? 2) Are there other tests I can do to further ID the problem. Thanks in advance.

I like the $150 exhaust story and to me it's a perfect DIY hobbyist solution to an expensive problem. Unless you are rebuilding a garage queen, big part of the fun is shade tree engineering stuff that works and is cheap without being junk. I have a BMW and Porsche as well, and one of the reasons I got the Z is the relative economy of modding/restoring the thing. Everything on the german cars is $1,500 and up. I keep those basically stock. The Z is my tinker car. These cars have always been relatively inexpensive, which attracts many hobbyists. FYI, on the Porsche board you see many guys swapping stories of VW parts that are exact fits for Porsche parts (and of course this will get more prevalent since Porsche and VW are now one firm). Example, same part, the oxy sensor from Porsche is $200, from VW $39 bucks. That's fun to beat the man.

I got some 6 x 3/8 flathead screws from Home Depot. These are very short and small. Drilled holes, screwed in, painted tops flat black. Worked like a charm.

Have new fuzzies that mount to the door panels I got from MSA. Problem is the originals look they are attached with heavy duty metal staples. Any ideas on how to attached the new ones to the panels? I guess epoxy glue might work.

I should have taken more before pics...frankly I was so disgusted I got out my sanding blocks and 3M Wet n Dry 360 and went to work..... Take my word for it, it looked like the guy never painted a car before. The funniest part (wasnt funny at the time:mad:) was the lack of paint coverage below the beltline of the car. Looked like he didnt bother to get low and spray down there much at all. PLus the runs.....man I have been on alot of paint sites, I have NEVER seen such humungus runs. Seriously looked like maple syrup poured on the car. Anyways, the Wazi guys did great work. Things are a little slow so I got a very good price, but it worked for them, I have a dented door on my BMW I am going to bring to them as well. I am having the glass put back in in a few days, hope to have the whole thing put back togther in a couple of weeks.

Just got it back, what a relief, awesome job. About $2,000 for the base/clear. I had all the trim, windows, bumpers etc off the car, but they did all the sanding, blocked out the doors, etc. They have a very new, hi tech shop, full modern heated booth, etc. Anyways, finish is like a mirror, looks better than the paint on my new BMW. If you need paint in Atlanta, call Brian Wozniack at Wazi Autobody in Cumming near the lake (770) 888-7455. They even picked up the car on a flatbed at my house for me. I would recommend them highly. Here's some pics:

FYI I just scored one thru Black Dragon- I needed the 260-early 280 kit, they have 2 left if you need one.

The "friend of a friend" part is what kills you. Ever sell a car to a friend? Guaranteed to fall apart as soon as the check clears, I dont care if it was the best car you ever owned. Anyways, I can afford it, so just writing it off to being an idiot and not going w my gut. Im too old to make these kind of mistakes:finger: Anyways, guy is coming over tonight to take it away and fix it, will cost about $2K which is not bad.

MSA is backordered for months on this kit. Black Dragon is out as well. Anyone know where I can get the full kit for a 2/75 production 280? Thanks in advance.

So like an idiot I let a "friend of a friend" paint my Z, I knew this was a mistake. I dont know where this guy painted the car, perhaps in a dusty corn field? I have never, and I mean never, seen as much junk in the clear, orange peel in the base and huge, nasty 2 foot x 1 foot long runs. In some spots it looks like maple syrup poured on the fender. On parts of the car, there is not enough base to 100% cover the primer. From about the beltline down, there is so much orange peel I thought Anita Bryant painted it. And the overspray on my nice, original uncracked dash...and everything else. Seriously, I cant beleive this guy paints cars for money at all. Somebody is going to kill this guy one day. I really am beyond words that anyone with an IQ over 30 would deliver a paint job in that condition. So I cant be a total arse, freind of a friend and all. Lesson learned. At least it was fairly cheap because I did all the body work and prep. Good news is that once I started sanding, many little low spots I missed were apparent, so I can get those now. I already had all the glass, trim, etc off the car. I have sanded it all down with 220 and then moving on to 320 and then 400, then will have the car repainted by a competent person. Its not a show car by any means, but a nice clean original 280 that deserves a decent paint job. I wish I took more pics, I mean it looks like a retarded monkey with one leg painted it. Apologies to retarded monkeys. :stupid:

So can I remove it without damaging anything? Ignition is all stock except for Crane wires and Blaster 2 coil.

not that stupid.... Gotta be either the control unit, plug or injector I would guess. The ballast is stock, not really sure why Nissan did it that way as is came stock w EI.

Im not giving the experts much to go on here, I know. I would consider myself an average enthusiast, so I know it either spark or fuel. Injector wiring seems OK. Mainly wondering if you can fry any of the EI stuff by cranking w/o the coil wire in (the one to the dist). Also, why do they still have a ballast resitor on an EI car? Can I by pass this for a hotter spark. I have searched past posts and I guess you can but then why did they come from Datsun with the resistor?

How loud do you think the ANSA muffler is going to be compared to the MSA Magnaflow? I dont have the center muffler for the ANSA, just the rear.

75 280. In process of cleaning up engine compartment, cleaned and re-wrapped all the wires running over the engine, etc. Mistakenly, I cranked the car up without the coil wire plugged into the coil. Shot sparks out pretty good! Now it runs kinda rought. I replaced cap, rotor, coil, plug wires (was planning to do that anyways), still have the miss. Pulled each plug wire separately to isolate, appears to be #2 cyl. What would make just that one not fire? Did I fry something?

OK, I have the 2.5 MSA exhaust but bought have a vintage ANSA rear muffler. I'd like to use that one but the inlet is 2 inch. Motor has headers, bigger air flow meter but otherwise stock. Going down from 2.5 to 2 inch- is that big deal?

I cant get the latch actuator rod removed from the handle! I thought these just pressed into the nylon fitting, but I cant get either side out. Is there some trick to this? thanks!

FYI, Permatex gasket remover works great, just be careful as it is kinda like paint stripper.

Getting prepped for paint, I have glass out, WS removed etc. Left bits and pieces in the channels plus there is a black goo around the back glass and windsheild. Also, the car had the aftermarket rub strips down the sides. I pulled those off carefully but lots of grey sticky stuff left on the paint. Does anyone know of a good solvent or tool that will make this job easier? I have tried lacquer thinner, etc but the stuff is pretty tough.