Persimmon240

Another possible solution is to purchase a cable luber that clamps on to cables at the end and allows you to use any aerosol type lubrication tin (and the included straw). They are around $10 - $15 and are commonly used on motorcycles (and bicycles). Google it. Just used a Motion Pro one to do the choke cables the other day. Slick and quick. Make a great stocking stuffer!

Perhaps the dealership kept, what was probably their first one, in the showroom to garner foot traffic?

All great suggestions. Another thing to try is put the transmission in gear before stabbing it and lightly attach a pair of Vise Grips to the output shaft. That way you can get the input shaft to rotate which could also help with the insertion.

Check the slave cylinder to make sure that it isn't seized internally - been there.

Yes, it sounds like you are starting out with about the same criteria that I did - tough would be an understatement. Please advise where you end up.

Good luck with your relocation plans - we could end up being neighbors. If you do end up in SCW, check out the Auto Restoration Club (ARC). As far as clubs go in the Phoenix area there is also the Desert Z Association. Yes, we are Snowbirds - but not this year.

Jeff, I registered my 240 in Arizona (northwest Phoenix) from out of State in 2008 (up until the current day) and just required an initial cursory visual inspection (lights, horn, etc.) by the Arizona MVD. In fact the inspector just walked around the car with his clipboard checking boxes and nodding - I didn't even have to open the hood. No smog test was (or has ever been) required, provided you are able to produce proof of vintage/collector vehicle insurance. See this article for more information https://tucson.com/news/local/govt-and-politics/got-collector-car-insurance-smog-test-no-longer-needed/article_b1903320-9fcd-5e1b-b56f-ccaafa538bf6.html Hope this helps. Just remember... it's a dry heat...

Well yes, but you can still buy a new one from a Nissan dealership for a few thousand dollars over that. The salespeople possibly have the correct motivation to cut a deal on it too!

Lest we forget that these are asking prices for the rusty nuggets and the zillion $$ bits and parts. The stuff priced properly (if there ever is any) sells quickly and disappears. Just because it says "buy it now" does not mean you should...

Forgive my foggy memory, as I renewed mine about 25 years ago - but I removed the old insert from the front and installed the new one the same way. Don't be afraid about squeezing the corners to get the short sides to collapse inwards sufficiently and then stuff it in. After getting it through the opening in the dash, just massage the sides back to their original shape and fasten it into place. Be cognizant of the glove box light connection and corresponding hole in the insert during the process.

Subtly perhaps, but if you look closely at your photos, I believe your cat has declared the winner.

Yes, those ports originally connected to hoses that lead up to the vapour recovery/expansion tank behind the passenger side c pillar. The following article shows the way the original system was "plumbed" along with an alternative solution - which appears to be what a previous owner was attempting on your tank. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm Hope this helps... and you were able to get yourself "wired".

Regarding the hold down bolt coming lose - I believe it already has a lock washer on it. You could also indicate in the install instructions (if required) that a wee dollop of blue thread locker might be advised. How many instances of the stock plate anchoring setup loosening up have been recorded?

"About time" - as it has been over 50 years that this problem has been looking for a solution. "Time slots" maybe? "Time out".... stop me!!!