Persimmon240
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Everything posted by Persimmon240
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I have dealt with seller kickstand80 a couple of times over the past year. He responds quickly to questions and orders for his products. Items are great quality and packaged properly for safe shipment. Purchase with confidence. -
Another possible solution is to purchase a cable luber that clamps on to cables at the end and allows you to use any aerosol type lubrication tin (and the included straw). They are around $10 - $15 and are commonly used on motorcycles (and bicycles). Google it. Just used a Motion Pro one to do the choke cables the other day. Slick and quick. Make a great stocking stuffer!
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Perhaps the dealership kept, what was probably their first one, in the showroom to garner foot traffic?
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All great suggestions. Another thing to try is put the transmission in gear before stabbing it and lightly attach a pair of Vise Grips to the output shaft. That way you can get the input shaft to rotate which could also help with the insertion.
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Check the slave cylinder to make sure that it isn't seized internally - been there.
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Yes, it sounds like you are starting out with about the same criteria that I did - tough would be an understatement. Please advise where you end up.
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Good luck with your relocation plans - we could end up being neighbors. If you do end up in SCW, check out the Auto Restoration Club (ARC). As far as clubs go in the Phoenix area there is also the Desert Z Association. Yes, we are Snowbirds - but not this year.
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Jeff, I registered my 240 in Arizona (northwest Phoenix) from out of State in 2008 (up until the current day) and just required an initial cursory visual inspection (lights, horn, etc.) by the Arizona MVD. In fact the inspector just walked around the car with his clipboard checking boxes and nodding - I didn't even have to open the hood. No smog test was (or has ever been) required, provided you are able to produce proof of vintage/collector vehicle insurance. See this article for more information https://tucson.com/news/local/govt-and-politics/got-collector-car-insurance-smog-test-no-longer-needed/article_b1903320-9fcd-5e1b-b56f-ccaafa538bf6.html Hope this helps. Just remember... it's a dry heat...
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Well yes, but you can still buy a new one from a Nissan dealership for a few thousand dollars over that. The salespeople possibly have the correct motivation to cut a deal on it too!
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Lest we forget that these are asking prices for the rusty nuggets and the zillion $$ bits and parts. The stuff priced properly (if there ever is any) sells quickly and disappears. Just because it says "buy it now" does not mean you should...
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Forgive my foggy memory, as I renewed mine about 25 years ago - but I removed the old insert from the front and installed the new one the same way. Don't be afraid about squeezing the corners to get the short sides to collapse inwards sufficiently and then stuff it in. After getting it through the opening in the dash, just massage the sides back to their original shape and fasten it into place. Be cognizant of the glove box light connection and corresponding hole in the insert during the process.
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Subtly perhaps, but if you look closely at your photos, I believe your cat has declared the winner.
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Yes, those ports originally connected to hoses that lead up to the vapour recovery/expansion tank behind the passenger side c pillar. The following article shows the way the original system was "plumbed" along with an alternative solution - which appears to be what a previous owner was attempting on your tank. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm Hope this helps... and you were able to get yourself "wired".
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New Product Idea. Distributor Timing Plate Re-Design
Persimmon240 replied to zKars's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Regarding the hold down bolt coming lose - I believe it already has a lock washer on it. You could also indicate in the install instructions (if required) that a wee dollop of blue thread locker might be advised. How many instances of the stock plate anchoring setup loosening up have been recorded? -
New Product Idea. Distributor Timing Plate Re-Design
Persimmon240 replied to zKars's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
"About time" - as it has been over 50 years that this problem has been looking for a solution. "Time slots" maybe? "Time out".... stop me!!! -
Or, if you are impatient - or want a more thorough job, you could use a tool designed specifically for lubing cables. They clamp on where the cable meets the housing and there is an opening for the straw on your spray lubricant of choice. Just Google cable lube tool...
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It is the two piece steel straps (one that also doubles as a header pipe heat shield) that use the existing oil pan bolts that I was referring to. Feedback so far indicates that they were installed on (all?) L24/26/28 engines beginning sometime in 1971.
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Wondering if any of the historians out there can tell me when the 2-piece oil pan stiffeners started (and were discontinued?) being installed on S30 engine types (240/260/280). Thanks.
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I would say not - the rear spoiler doesn't provide enough down force at subsonic speeds - but it looks cool and balances the car (visually at least).
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The front ends of S30's do get light at "highway" speeds. Front spoilers are functional - which is why the Euro models came with one from the factory.
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I believe what wheee! is subtly attempting to point out is that those cavities are actually partially open and direct the air in the general direction of the brakes - no mods required - everybody happy... ?!!!
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You could think of the openings as dead bug collectors - or, perhaps, you could wield a hole saw and acquire some clothes dryer vent hose and build some real racy brake cooling ducts - fog/driving light receptacles(?) - or put some black wire mesh over them and keep people guessing. There are a whole lot of dam options...
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Perhaps this might work? https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B02&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts
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Actually, I believe that Bugs Bunny used to say "What a Maroon" - but I digress....
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Just one suggestion to the OP's question. Instead of using silicone to seal the lens to the taillight, I would suggest butyl strip caulking. The stuff is black and is non-hardening and waterproof. It used to be called dum-dum (no, I am not making this up). 3M, Eastwood and a bunch of other companies make it. Comes in 3/16" diameter ropes that you set into the grove where the lens sits in the housing. My local auto parts store sells it by the one foot strip (2 required per taillight) for $.30 each. Just cut it where necessary for the drain holes in the bottom of the housing/lens. This will allow you to remove the lens at some point(s) in the future - if necessary - without damaging it. One warning; it does stick to everything - kind of like anti-seize!
