Persimmon240

I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?

How about checking the rear control arm bushings? One side could be bad, allowing some "toe" changes on accel and decel.

Your second picture indicates to me that it isn't a piece off of your Z. Perhaps the tool fairy had something to do with its appearance - hence the dime.

It looks like it is metal - a roll pin to be more specific. The bottom of the distributor shaft on a 240 would have one. The small gap along it provides a press fit - so not likely it fell out. I can't recall where another one would be located on the parts you have removed. You don't indicate the year or engine you car has but I believe the ZX distributor has a plastic collar at the bottom where the pin is located. Perhaps the plastic broke and the pin fell out. Just a guess, I'm afraid.

Let's assume that the odd one is perhaps a replacement. So you figure CSI stands for Crime Scene Investigation(!) - or Carroll Shelby Incorporated (nah, he never used an acronym on the wheels he produced). This is just for your edification... try putting a drop of vinegar on an unpainted spot on each wheel. If the vinegar stays clear then they are aluminum - if it turns dark, then the wheel is magnesium. There were (and still are) a lot of "reproductions" of the original Minilite style. Look at the current Panasport wheels for example.

They look very much like Minilites to me - but I defer to somebody with "wheel" knowledge of the subject. I was going to say knockoffs, (but they have lugs) - in this case the better term would probably be "replicas".

They look like hood side rail bumpers (2 per side) and they reside on the portion of the fenders inside the engine bay to center the hood when it shuts. It looks to me like some new ones might be in order - that or many more beers! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/34-1172

Here is perhaps a better suggestion if you are running foam air filters - use a product made for oiling them, rather than motor oil. There is a company called Uni Filter that has oil (and cleaner) for this purpose. I used these filters on my dirt bike for years. Check out unifilter.com. The oil (and cleaner) is available at Amazon, Walmart etc. - or probably any motorcycle/ATV shop near you. I would really not run them dry. Hope this helps.

Gary, There is still emissions testing for metro Phoenix and Tucson. Exemptions include "model year 1966 and older vehicles and vehicles designated as “collectible” (requires collectible vehicle insurance, reported to Arizona Motor Vehicle Division by insurer)". So if your 240 is a daily driver, you will need to get it tested. Also, if your vehicle is registered outside of Phoenix but you use it to commute to anywhere in the city, then it will need to be emissions tested (provided you are not exempt as above). So arm yourself with your Hagerty, Grundy, etc. insurance policy before heading to your local MVD office to register. The MVD also do a cursory safety inspection (clipboard walk around) if the vehicle is being registered from out of state (at least they did 10 years ago when I registered mine). My take at the time was that if the vehicle looked roadworthy (read shiny and looked after) then the inspection was a formality. Good luck!

olzed, My shop manual indicates that the "Gear carrier to rear differential mounting member lock nuts" should be torqued to between 54.2 and 68.7 ft-lbs - or, if you prefer metric, 7.5 to 9.5 kg-m

Eric, use a zip tie.... preferably one that matches the exterior color of your car.

I run Redline (synth) MT-90 75W90 GL-4 in the 5 speed in my '90 Z32TT. You will need just less than 3 quarts for the fill. No need to remind you to remove the fill plug first - just in case...

Your non-run symptoms except when the started is engaged sounds like your ballast resistor has failed. The same thing happened to my wife after an abortive shopping trip in a 510 we had 25+ years ago. She walked home. Yes, we are still married... the "Dime" returned to the earth. Hopefully I didn't get my wires crossed. Good luck in solving your problem.

David, My copy of the parts fiche indicates the following. The original part number was 27400-89901 and then in 07/73 it was superseded by 27470-89901 and then in 08/73 it was superseded by 27470-N3100. So it looks like any of these numbers would work. No idea what changes occurred with the characteristics of the actual part (if any) through the three part numbers. Hope this helps.

Yes, all of the 280Z/280ZX factory A/C compressor brackets will bolt to the existing holes in the L24 block. Look for the later ones made out of aluminum (rather than steel) for weight savings. Also, suggest you replace the idler bearing as well.

I know, I know!! You are off your rocker. See picture #2 for the proof. Sorry, shouda waited...couldn't help it.

Much as I don't want to jump onto this scrum but the one rotor (at least) looks like it needs to be turned (or replaced). You know what they say about rotors... one good turn deserves another - or some such thing. That overspray on the dash (both sides!) really demonstrates a lack of attention to detail that would make me want to question all of the details.

My wife and I are planning to attend as part of the zKars crew, along with 240dkw. This will be my 4th ZCON. Looking forward to the drive and the event.

Tim, Try looking at your emergency brake handle. I think you will find the location for your parts there. The plastic bit and spring is the switch for your "Brake" light and the wire is the ground. Hope you are successful rejoining your componentry!

Al, The oil pan was originally gloss black - yes, the engine "blue" overspray could be original.

Then there is this replica that was at the 2012 Z Convention in Phoenix.

I agree about not restoring. There is the old adage about it only being original once. Having said that, I would hate for it to be hidden away (original or restored condition). Build a perfect replica but keep the original original, body damage, bad paint and all! Am I correct that Nissan has the East African Safari #11 in it's museum? Oops, wrongo, it is the 1971 Monte Carlo Rally winner car #5 in that collection.

Blue, I'll assume that you meant to put a question mark after you comment about the stamp depicting a 1969 model. Perhaps my bespectacled eyes deceive me, but it looks more like a Series 2 to me - he said philately...

samsom, a bit more information... The Euro front spoiler and I am quoting from the 1996 edition of the Nissan Motorsports catalog "This rubber spoiler was OE on European 240Z/260Z (up to 8/74). Bolt-on installation results in a 20% decrease in front end lift" Part Number 98300-E8100. Because the European cars had the signal lights above the bumper, the complete front valence was different than the North American models. The side pieces did not have the cutouts for the turn signals. Also, the center piece had captive nuts on the upper edge where this spoiler bolted to. Not a trivial modification. Carl Beck included some pictures of both factory spoilers on the the Z Car Home Page site. Look under Z Technical Library and then down to Reference Pictures and finally Factory 240Z parts. Check out pictures PRT7 and PRT8. I don't know too much about the rear spoiler. It was plastic or fiberglass and had 2 flat sections on the back portion where the badges that were on the hatch of the North American models "Datsun" and "240Z". I'm sure others can tell you more.

The spoiler in question is from a Euro market car (the license/number plate is also a hint). They have a bonded steel frame and are made out of a high density foam painted the same colour as the stock hubcaps and taillight finisher (suede grey). They are NLA, just in case you like them like I do!