lm71z

Hey everyone, so our 71 240Z is in need of a good paint job, but I want to take my time and find the right place who will take the time to do it right. Basically the whole car, including the roof, is filled with small dings, and I worry about most body shops just spreading bondo all over the place instead of taking the time to do the metal work necessary to actually remove them. Can anyone recommend a shop, or an individual person, in the greater Los Angeles area that does thorough, honest work without charging crazy prices? I would be willing to spend 6-10k if that’s what it takes to get it done right. I’m open to even having one person do the body work and prep work, and then having it painted elsewhere if that ends up getting the best result.

View Advert 1971 Datsun 240Z, 72k Original Miles Made in February, 1971. The car was purchased from the original owner - not driven from 2000 until 2009. I've 2000 miles put on it since then. The body has lots of small dings (not on a major body lines) that don't show up in pictures. New parts are: Radiator Fan clutch & Fan Blade Temp sender & thermostat Water pump & bolts SU Carbs from Paltech in Ohio Coil & resistor Fuel pump All wheel bearings & seals All brakes, calipers, wheel cylinders & drums Diff gear oil & trans oil New Factory Nissan Master brake cylinder (tokico) Clutch cylinder & slave cylinder Battery Muffler -Everything works, even the clock -Gas tank was taken out and redone -Runs, drives, rides and shifts perfectly -Underside never under coated, NO RUST except in dog legs (a few dime size spots) -72K original miles -Needs a professional windows out paint job & seat covers bring back to -dash has 2 small cracks Advertiser lm71z Date 10/23/2019 Price $24,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1971 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

Okay, we actually have a factory heat shield under these, but it's the SU Carb heat shield and it looks like it doesnt block all of the heat from the header

Nope, in the process of trying to find one, but it seems like I’ll have to have one made.

Okay, I also forgot to mention it has unwrapped headers. Was thinking the heat from those could possibly be causing the gas on the float bowls to evaporate and expand. I’m going to test this by only driving it for a mile or less, then turning it off for 5 min and see if I have the same restart issue when it’s not warmed up. For float level, should I consider lowering that? Seems to me that the only 2 causes could be the fuel evaporating from heat and/or improper float levels? Is there anything else I’m missing?

Question for those with experience with these carbs. The car is a 1971 Datsun 240Z with dual Weber 32/36 carbs. It starts and runs perfectly from a cold start. Plenty of power, no issues while driving. However, if it sits for 5-10 minutes, it will take several cranks to fire back up and will often smell of gas and/or smoke out the back. I assume that fuel vapor or fuel is continuing to make its way into the manifold after the car has been warmed up and then shut off. The only time it starts up perfectly is if it sits for 1-2 days (I assume this is because the extra fuel from the carbs has evaporated?) We have replaced the accelerator pumps, needle and seats, and power valves. Any idea what the fix could be? Any ideas for a solution would be appreciated.

Okay, makes sense. Does anyone know the specific size and type of tubing to use?

Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.

Just to let you guys know, the problem with mine ended up being the thermostat temp sensor. The aftermarket one was reading high; once I installed a genuine Nissan one it has been reading at about half or under half.

The hoses I have are 10 1/4" inches long. Can anyone confirm if that's long enough for both front and rear?

Does anyone know the answer to this question? I've accidentally bought 4 front brake hoses, but they seem to be the same ends as designated "rear" hoses.

Thanks for all the input everyone. Does anyone know if the outline around the gear selector on the automatic shift plate is supposed to be silver or chrome? When it's almost all the way rubbed off, I can't tell what it originally was.

Can you explain to me how that stuff works? It seems that you would have to cut the excess off with an exacto knife, correct?

I want to restore some parts I have, including an automatic shift plate, and I'm wondering if anyone here knows the best way to repaint the silver, rectangular outline on the shift plate. I know there was also chrome paint used on many of the panels (like the console choke plate), so I want to know where to buy this type of paint and what brushes/painting tools I will need to make this look professional. Any ideas?

Okay, thanks for the quick reply. I have a few more questions for everyone. 1. Are there supposed to be lock/spring washers used when attaching the exhaust manifold? 2. I'm replacing the gasket because it was leaking, primarily from the middle two exhaust holes. I just removed it and noticed that the rear 3 exhaust holes in the head are clean, and parts of the holes are a white color. The front 3 exhaust holes in the head are fairly greasy and completely black. Is this an issue of the front carburetor running too rich and/or the rear carburetor running too lean?