smg1404

How wide are these wheels???

I'm sure that most of the people that do their own work have... These fitting tend to get that way.. After all they probably have not been turned for many years.. If you have tried all of the proper tools, and had no luck . Try a set of vice grips... Make them as tight as you can get them.. This will no doubt damage the fittings, but if you have already been trying and failed, I bet they are already rounded off.. Remember to use some penetrating oil... I have not had this method fail, The worst case will be that the fitting twists off. If it is that seized, you will get there eventually anyway. Good luck.

Is this a tripple set???

It is a very valuable asset to me as well. The combined knowlege from around the world, can be used to answer almost any question about Zcars.

No... I would like to, but I probably need to put money into other parts of the car. I will probably add a brake proportioning valve. The brakes are working much better now, I have plenty of power to put to the fronts.. They lock first now, so I want to add a valve to try and balance the brakes.

Why would DOT certified make any difference??? They are probably safe enough to drive on..

Anyone know a good place to get some Koni strut cartriges... All I can find are Tokico's . If not, are the Tokico's as good as the Koni's?..

The noise level mostly depends on the rest of the exhaust system.... The headers will increase the level some....

I still have some air in the system,, or something else going on. But I can tell already that the increase in stopping power is fantastic.. Before I had brakes... Nothing to brag about, but they stopped the car (sort of)... Now even though I have a bit to much pedal travel, I feel like I have the ability to chock the brakes easily any time I want... I have only driven a few miles so far on this new setup, but I thinl it was a good thing to do... I feel safer. I probably spent too much, I bought a set of used calipers for $80.00, and after looking them over, decided that I wanted to trade them in for rebuilds... So I have about $240.00 in the upgrade, but I have all new or rebuilt hardware.. I used the old set for cores. With brakes better safe than sorry.. The calipers I used are from an '88 4Runner 6 cylinder... They had bigger pistons than the 4 cylinder set.. I had to space the calipers inward 1/8th of an inch. I bought hardened washers for this. I also used 1/8th inch wheel spacers to give a little more clearance between the caliper and my wheels..The 1/8th inch spacing inward put the caliper dead center with the disk. I was concerned at first, because the space between the rotor and the pads seemed like too much. But when I checked out how deep the pistons went into the caliper , I saw that there was plenty travel to handle this gap... After I pumped them in the brakes seem to work very well..

What year car?

This setup is the bomb, I already have one. Too bad I didn't have this offer a couple of years ago.... I am surprised yu don't want to use them, they are far superior to the stock setup.. And not that hard to setup...

Todays effort now mostly complete. I still need to rework the lines a little.

If you want a car that is for the drag strip.... don't even waste your time on a nissan engine.... you cannot replace cubic inches without spending lots of money. 300 hp is a lot for an L series engine.....It is where you start with a small block.

Hey!! It's not the size.....It's what you do with it....

How much power do you want???? If you want to dominate for the minimum cost. Give in to the dark side,,, go for the small block. If you feel unable to pua an engine in you car that is not from Nissan, then wait for the 280 block, or go for a Z32 engine. etc... The cheapest way to make your Zcar a low flying object is a big honkin V8... No one will fight this fight and win.... Do not buy a 260 engine,,,It is a mistake that datsun built for 1 year ,, and regreted real fast.... Sorry 260n owners. but that's my view on it. Where you live , you have lots of long streight roads, (I think) so don't bother with a quick quick rever, build a high torque, freeway blaster... Take the competition at 160 plus. Just remember to get some good brakes.

If you watch Ebay, or other sites that have Zcars for sale there are many chaces to buy a car for much less than 3000......... I f you consider the reality that you will probably have to replace the floor boards in anything you buy, then get a car that goes for a few hundred, or go for one that someone else has already restored... the cars in the middle will cost you more.. If you pay 2 or 3 K then you will have to rebuild almost everything within the first few years. This is the same story for the cars that cost 600.. If you spend 6000, or more, for an already restored car you will cry about the price, up front, but you will come out cheaper in the long run if you consider your time as a valuable item.

There are several paths to stopping better.. You can stay stock with a better set of pads and shoes and stop a little better, you can use the Toyota calipers and stop much better, or you can buy one of the very expensive, but fantastic 4 wheel disk systems and stop like a real race car.... It's just a matter of how much you can spend... I also found that if you know the limitations of your brakes real well,,,, you can stay within their limits, (most of the time ) and survive... Isn't that what brakes are for???

You could just replace the whole engine with one of the RB type engines.... They have them in Austrailia... I almost did, it was going to cost about $1500.00 to get it to my house... Not too bad, but I am sure there would be more expences to get it in the car.

That is a beautiful sight.... Could cost a lot before it's over.

From a previous post I heard that the difference was the thickness of the steel...

How much to ship one from Arizona, or some other dry place..

Hey don't get me wrong I am not selling my car... And I know about the mustangs... and honda's But with that kind of jack I could find much bigger challenges than building a car.... I would pay someone else to build it, I will be glad to punish it... For now the car challenge is almost too big a challenge (financially)

Only good spider...... dead spider!

Heck all of this makes good conversation. But unless you drive hard and fast, your plugs will not make much noticible difference. Unless you never change them at all... I have noticed a difference from plug to plug, but I only noticed it when I was pushing the car hard, (which I do alot) . But most people do not drive that way. So if you like splitfires, go for it. Are they the best plug? Probably not,,, It's your car , run Champions, or anything else it your business... If you really want the best plug, I would recomend listening to what the majority of people from a racing background recomend. That is NGK. I am currently running Autolite platinums. (could not find NGK) They seem to work fine. I used to run Champions, and Bosch... They worked from fair to OK... The only way to be sure is to try the different brands and convince yourself. The wrong plug will not likely hurt your engine (as long as it is the correct size) it just may not last as long or provide maximum performance.. Have fun experiment.

If you want the car for the track car... Remember the '73 weighs a couple hundred pounds more than a '70 , or '71.. This could make a big difference when racing..