smg1404

Cmon guys.. I'm sorry but if I had millions to spend the Z would only be a memory.. gimme that F50, then a Mclaren, and maybe a Lambo for every day... and one of those bullet Proof Navigators for the family trips, and a 60' sail boat, and...... lets go play now.. Sorry got carried away Oh yeah I need a 20 bay garage with a big shop on the end,, and a couple of babes to keep the stuff cleaned up.. .... ROFL ROFL

Found on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1858774823

I have floors in my car. Put them there last winter.. But I also have several leaks, air and water seem to flow through the car with relative ease... Any good thoughts as to haw to seal up body repairs..

Are you getting a hesitation at the same time the backfire is happening??? You could be experiancing a flat spot between the place where the primaries are doing all of the work, and the place where the mains take over. This is not unusual... My webers have a similar issue... It can be tuned out ,to some extent. But maybe not completely.,You may have to adjust your driving style if this is the problem.... It may not be possible to completely get rid of it, without sacrificing some performance in another rpm range.

I know this is wierd since I am an electronics engineer, But I just think there is much more reliability in the old stuff. And since I have been working on it since was 8. I almost don't have to think to maintain it... I can fix carbs in my sleep... EFI I have to get out the book... Since I have to do that all day at work I like something that is easy to live with at home... Give me that hammer I will fix it ya know... If you think EFI is easy... I guess I am getting old.

That always makes me dizzy.... I guess I am too retro for the new world... I can't believe you would put EFI on a car on purpose. I always worked hard to get rid of it... Too much electronic junk for me... Heck I hardly have turn signals...If you are going fast enough no one will see them anyway. If it dont make the momo go I don't want it...

I agree that If it starts at all things sound good for starts... My concern about the fuel filter is that even a car that is used regularly, can get rust in the gas tank. That is because gas tanks tend to accumulate moisture if they are not kept full , or at least filled regularly. For a car used a a daily driver, this is not much of a problem. But when a car sits for long periods of time, not only are the top and walls of the tank exposed to air and moisture, but they don't even get sloshed with fuel now and then... If the tank was low on fuel the whole time it , could get really corroded.. This would mean when you start the car back up , the crud will make it's way to your carburators. They will plug up fuel passages quickly if no fuel filter is in place... If there is a fuel filter, it may plug quickly. This would give a symptom like you are now having... The car can start, but not keep running, because the fuel supplied cannot keep up with demand.. Just a thought... Look for dirt in the fuel system.. It may not be your whole problem, but I would be surprised if it were not part of it.

You said he put new carbs on??? Are the new or just different.. Since you say that two months ago an attempt was made to start the car... You can forget a lot of my previous list... May be there is a vacume leak, .... maybe... is there a fuel filter.. You may want to have a filter that you can see through for a while.. That would make it easy to see if there is junk (rust etc.) in the fuel. When you say it started, how long did it run? did it sound like it was running OK, but just quit after a few seconds, or did it sputter a lot and sort of give up..

Geme geme geme geme ... I am interested, But how much? A list with prices would be good.

That sounds good ,,, But I hope he asks before adding an additive... I would personally be pissed if someone added anything to my oil or water without asking. I wonder , if your car is running OK and will no doubt last for many years either way.. What is the need to add a product that has any controversy about it's worth... With out it your car is fine, with it it might last an extra year, or die sooner,, maybe much sooned if the product is bogus... I will let someone else try it .... I will wait...

I am not really sure... I used to build hot SAAB engines , and the guy I bought my parts from was a long term race builder... I asked him once about running the thinner synthetics. He did not recomend it for his race engines. His claim was that the thicker oils protected the engine better... His quote was something like the thicker oil keeps the parts from beating themselves to death... I don't know if I conpletely buy this idea, but who knows. I have read the info on the synthecic oils, and they sure sound superior. But I think that if you keep clean reasonably good quality oil in your car, you may have a hard time proving any difference. If your car will last 200,000 to 300,000 miles either way. And a Z will,, what's the difference... I will want to rebuild before then anyway..

If the car sat for 10 years, it probably needs many things... How long since the last successfull start?? If that was not too long ago, the engine may not be too messed up.. The things I would be worried about are ... 1. rust in the gas tank 2. rust on cylinder walls 3. other corosion caused from inactivity.. The things I would definately do before trying to start the car.. 1. Pull the plugs & spray in a little oil 2. change the oil, and filter 3. drain the gas tank and replace the gas with fresh 4. while the plugs are out try to turn the motor with a wrench. 5. check and or change the coolant. 6. replace the fuel filter I might do more or less depending on how long since it ran last.. Check things as you are doing this.... Like is there rust on the plugs, what does the oil look like, will the motor turn easily. There is a pretty good chance that (if the last start was not too long ago) the engine is going to be OK... Good luck.

I am now using 20 w 50 .. I have run a couple of different brands. I am now running Castrol... Seems to work fine..

I never drive crazy.... I often drive fast. All that is needed is an absence of other cars,,, police cars mostly.

Do you feel the car lose power during that period... If so you may have made an improvement, but not completely cured the problem...

I always wanted one of those cool tools. I have always had to rebuild on a bench or the floor.... Too much money for the stand... If you prepare the work area (make it very clean. You do not really need a stand. Think about it the rebuild will take a month at the most. And unless you are going to make a habit out of rebuilding engines, you may never use it again.... Save your money, a good hoist (rented) and a clean work area is all you need.

Sounds like the best possible answer..

That is a very good post .... Thanks Phred.

posted above

This would be a good explanation, if the rpm did not go on up past the 5200 point.. But the description said that it only hesitated, or stumbled at 5200, then accellerated fine on up past 5200 rpm... I tend to think that it is more likely an ignition break down, ie weak coil, wrong or worn plugs. It could be caused by a combination of heat and pressure in the combustion chambers, causing the resistance of the plugs becoming too great to allow a reliable spark. In my experiance this has happened to me in about this rpm range. I was able to correct it with a better set of plugs, and better wires.

If he just opened the blead valve, and let in air, then you probably just neet to purge the system. Not replace the caliper. The procedure is probably on this site somewhere. If not get a Chiltons guide, or factory manual... Either is cheap insurance against the dreaded, " wonder how you do that syndrom" It can save a lot of money, by keeping from you from being a victom of so called experts that just want an easy mark. Most of the maintenance on a Zcar is relatively easy.. NO computers you know.... The parts are also relatively cheap (as long as you are not looking for race parts.) So owning a Z is a good choice for anyone willing to performe some or all of their own repairs.

Does this happen in every gear, or just first??? Could make a difference.

Hey that is what I run...... Steve ... That is a good name, since its is also mine.... Do not defend your driving habits.... In the right place (judgement required) I do no thtink speed laws apply. To heck with the guys with the guns, and stinking badges. Runn your arse off, If you run into the weeds and blow up it's your buisness. Try not to take anyone with you, unless you get lucky and get some psycho on the way. I think I would not get too concerned about the issue with the oil pressure. After all does the car still run OK?, dioes the pressure now look OK?, Was the circumstance a little beyond normal operating conditions (what the car was designed for).... SO what? If you plan to extend the operating parameters to include long term full throttle rides. then modify the car to handle the extra load. otherwise I think you do not need to spend your money chasing ghosts.

I thougt you were still talking about the boobs post.

Still no answer.....But I have made some untested changes tonight.... I did find a big difference in tire pressure... ( I have a slow leaker front left) any way I adjusted the pressure but did not have time for a road test... maybe tomorrow... I saw some other ares of concern, but I am not sure they are serious enough, or relevant. Anyway I WILL find this and let you know....