smg1404

I think I would be very happy if I was getting 40 more HP... On a stock motor you are probably only looking at 10 to 20 more HP, if that. I really do not know what the gain is... They are nice.. I got mine from Ebay... cost me $300.00, then I had to put another $350.00 in them to get them where they are today.... While my car is running great, I am still adjusting. I am getting black smoke when at max throttle above 5 grand... Still pulls like a MF, but I still need a little jetting. If you are not afraid to buy a used set, you can save a few bucks.... Though if I had the money I much rather have a new set.

I would bet that the car will show you several needs for your funds in the near future... First off make sure there are no serious safety, or reliability issues. Drive it for a while to decide where the car needs improvement. Power is only one factor in a sports car. You may need shocks, or bushings. While these parts are not glamorous they will greatly improve the drivability of your car.. It is also likely that the car needs a tune up. This could make a bigger improvement than you think. Start with maintenance, then go from there... The biggest mistake for modifying a car, is to spend money for parts that do not give the expected, or intended result. Often you buy one part only to find out you need three other parts to make it work right. For now save you money, study, and plan..Enjoy the car.

I would not say that you do not get a performance increase from tripple carbs only. I have done this twice, and I can tell you that there is a difference. Not a radical difference, but definately an improvement. I will agree that a cam helps a bunch, then the tripples come to life. The increase is very noticible. Is it worth the money??? How much money do you have? If 500 to 1500 hurts a lot, It's probably not worth the money.. I could not help myself. I have never liked constant velocity carbs.... They work well enough, but I never liked the idea that my foot was not directly in control of the throttle opening.. I understand Webers, they are very simple devices that are very tunable...

Unless you just love removing rust, and spending a few hundred hours under you car eating feric oxide. Buy a cay that has the least amount of rust possible... I removed most of the rust from mine.... I can hardly describe how much fun it was. I learned a lot. But I really do not want to do this again,, it would have been much cheaper, (man hours count) to just buy a better car.. Look in Vegas or Arizona.... Take a trailer on vacation and bring back a zcar to remember the trip.

Could work... I have never used it, but I know a guy that uses it on his chevy pickup.. One very fast pickup... He has a small block that is built to put out about 450hp... Then he dumps about another 150hp in with nitrous... He has surprised a lot of supposedly fast cars with this rig. He says he has no problems with reliability, but I have heard other people say that nitrous is a good way to destroy your engine.. I think the reality is that if you do not know how to do right you will destroy your engine. Am I going to try it..... NO, Is it a good idea? I don't know. No doubt you can get a bunch of power real quick with nitrous.

I like the price... want to sell it for $100.00

The issue is not what we think.... If you like the car ,, it rates on top. The car you have has one of the most reliable engines ever made in it, and is capable of putting out considerably more horse power than it does at this time. You can cherry it out or make it into an all out racer, it is up to you. That is where the fun comes in. Have fun,, Take care of your car, and it will take care of you.

I am sure that is purposely engineer into the car. A lot of has to do with the the basic engine configuration. All small blocks share , to a degree a similar sound. Factors such as stroke , header tunning, exhaust design. All come into play to achieve the sound. While the cars you have heard may have different mufflers, they probably have not replaced the entire system.. Even if they did, they would sound like a mustang with a different exhaust system. , Think about it , you can probably many vehicles by sound. ... I can identify, a harley davidson more than a mile away, or a zcar, if it is close enough. most cars have a distinct sound.

It is much better that your problem is that your clutch is not disengaging all of the way than not pulling the car. I agree that you probably have pumped air into the system or drained toomuch fluid from the resevoir... Double check your work, you will find the problem. Was there a reason why you decided to bleed the system? were you experiencing a problem before you did this?

What you get depends on why you want the car.... If you want a flashy car that is fun to drive , without giving up comfort or luxury. Get a newer zcar. at least a 280 or newer.. If you want a car that challenges you to drive up to it's capabilities get a 240. It is much less comfortable. It has a much harsher ride, etc. But it can be a ball to drive. I have had both, and liked them both, but the 240 is much more of a race car, than any of the newer models in stock trim. They added a lot of weight to make the newr zcars omfortable.

Thats cool I probably need to setup that way myself... I want to become more active in local autocrossing.... But the need for speed is a hard call to ignore... there's something about moving at 100+ meters per second that is just hard ro resist... But of course if you hit something at that speed you will look like the bugs that hit your windscreen. And you now what the last thing to pass through a bugs mind is when he hits your windshield is..... His arse hole. Sorry I couldn't resist... old joke ya know.

I have done this at least three times. Not always to replace the clutch.. But anyway if you set it up carefully the trany will set on the jack without much trouble. you ar eright in guessing that it will try to roll off. But it is not that ard to keep it up there.. the trans probably weighs about 35 to 45 lbs. I am sure that someone out there has the exact weight, but it is not that hard to get it in place. A few minute of cussin, and wigglin and poof it's all over.. I put my car on jackstands, on concrete. I make sure that it is not going anywhere. I purposely nudge the car HARD after putting it on the jackstands, Better to have the car fall off of the stand while I am not under it than to be surprised,,,,, While under it... The biggest issue is to not let the joib intimidate you. read the procedure in the service manual several times before trying it the first time. Be sure that you have all the stuff you need before you shove the jack under the car. Then go for it. Good luck, Don't forget the safety issues.

I do not live in Australia.... But my misguided american knowlege says that there are many places where there is wide open road for miles, and miles.... unless you are big into autocrossing or drag racing you might consider a gear ratio that will give you more top end... I have always wanted to go more than 200mph myself. Not that a Zed will likely get me there , bu t someday. Any way with the right stuff, and a couple of mile long stretch of road 160 coud be a blast..... Just a thought .... Don't forget aerodynamics, cars tend to fly off the road at higher speeds, if you are not carefull.. Be careful, but have fun...

Very impressive welding. Nice worlk. How many pony's does this rig put out????

Hey 76 don't confuse us with reality!

No offense intended.... I was refering to the one I bought some 20 years ago.... They may not be all the same, especially in other nations.. I like a car that does not comprimise .... comfort is not an issue. Only performance.. sideways at 120+ that kind of stuff. sorry.

It's just my opinion, throw all that Junk right into the nearest trash can.... Plug up the holes and readjust if necessary. your car will thank you with better reliability, and more HP. End of discussion.

Hey in the US gas is not so much, burn it up.... It's high now for us at $1.50 a gallon for premum 93 octane.... SO MPG is no big deal.... Put in a bigger tank, and pour it on.

The 170hp rating was at the crank, so you don't really have that much when you compare to a 300zx. they were rated by the new standard of having to include all of the accessories and parasitic drag items... ie drive train. So the 145 number is roughly correct. In fact there are some that would say that is was optimistic. I owned a 75 280 as my first Z.... I liked it well enopugh as it came from the factory, but My driving impression was it was underpowered, and handeled like a boat... I proceded to modify the car, by adding tripple webers , cam, headers, aluminum offset bushings, solid differential mount, and a few undisclosed improvements. After these enhancements the car was predictable in the corners, accellerated very well and would top out at arround 150mph. A good comparison was one of my street races against a 5 litre, Mustang GT.... He was able to run along side me untill about 110 mph and was still a contender until about 125... after that he was no factor.... I continued on to about 135 that day, there was no neeed for more speed. I had oppertunity to race more than one 911 and always won, both in accelleration and in the corners... In comparison the 240 I now own starts out feeling like a race car... My old 280 would out run it in it's modified state. But before I modified it the 280 would have been badly embarrassed... I look forward to getting the 240 up to snuff.

Last year there was this rally nice 240 on ebay... It had all of the right stuff, for me anyway. 18,000 actual miles, aluminum flywheel, 3 webers, headers, Bright red, Panasports, the list goes on. Kind of like the car you dream about, and then wake up, and realize that you need another 10 grand to get there.... This car had a reserve of $17,500.00 and was a bargain..... And I am not bitter......not a bit ,,, just cause some clueless rich guy got a car to polish and look at and treasure, instead of drive like a bat out of hell, like it was made for, what do I care. If you just want to look at them get a picture, and let the true enthusiasts have the car. Sorry I sometimes get carried away.. Steve

Yesterday, I just had to try it. So I made a maximum effort burn out. I was surprized at just how much tire smoke and how far I was able to spin the tires. I actually shifted and was still smoking the tires in second for maybe another 50 feet or so... I am happy.... well maybe another 50 Hp. would be nice.... RO 100 or 200,, or 1,000,000,,, rorrrrr r ar pbkfakl;dkl;gkll;fk;al' never mind .....

I have heard of doing this... but have never tried it... I do not think you can succeed with out an air compressor or tank with plenty of reserve... anyway, if you think there is any chance that the valve contacted the top of the piston, take the head off. there is almost certain to be some damage. If you put it back together and something is screwed up the damage, and ultimate price of repair will increase dramatically.

Nice ride... but way out of my reach.... Hope the new owner knows what they are getting....and takes care of it.

I failed to mention that i was running 7 inch wheels with the 225's I also had the 1" lower springs with this combo. It fit fine... Much bigger and I think flairs would have been needed.

You can certainly do it .... All you need is money.... Probably quite a bit of it... I am not sure of all of the specs.. Let me guess 280z about 2800lbs and about 145 hp 300ax about 3200lbs and about 200hp If you get the 280 up to around 190 hp you can probably pull it off. If it is a drag race. If it is a road race power is nice, but then driver skill and nerve is more important. I beat many a driver with superior equipment by wanting to win more than they did, and having the ability to get the most from my car... Back to your car. Build the head... new cam, springs, headers, Improve the injection , or add webers, and bingo 300zx in the mirrors.... how much money... 1500 to 3000 dollars or a little more depending on how good a shopper you are.