coopdog240

Has anyone tried these bumpers? How is the chrome? They seen too inexpensive to be good Coop

Does anyone have a photo showing how the jack and tools are stored behind the passenger seat in a Series 1 240Z with the plastic tool storage bins. Please post if you have.

The 1970 240Z had neither air conditioning nor an electric fuel pump. And there is no way to "trace back" wires through the harness. Both wires are cold with ignition on or off also.

There are two blue wires coming out of the harness behind the heater control panel. Both have in-line glass fuses. Both are not hot and not attached to anything. What are these for?

I put the accessory fuse in and I found the blue and white whire going from the fuse block subharnes which goes to the blue and white wire powering the cigarette lighter. The lighter works. However, still no clue about the two heavy blue wires with the in-line fuses.

I have two blue wire coming out of the dash harness, both with in-line fuses. Both test cold with ignition off or ignition on. (Yes, the fuses are good and I tested behind the fuse too.) What are these wires for??? Car is a 10/70 build date

Car is a 240Z - 10/70 build date (Series 1) What is the circuit marked "common" on the lower right of the fuse block (shown with white arrow in photo) for? Does a fuse belong in this slot?? If so, what amperage?

How about a Hybrid Turbo-Diesel-Electric?? 100mpg or more??

I stand corrected. The radio connector is also a T-shaped connector, but it is a 3 wire connector.

Can anyone tell me what the heavy red wire and the blue wire on the blower sub-harnes go to. 10/70 build date

He said a 2/70 build date. I don't think that a 2/70 has an electic fuel pump, so I think this connector is for something else. As I said, I think it matches the connector on the factory radio. I will check again when I get home.

I "think" the T-type two pronged connector is for the factor radio. I have a 10/70 car without a factory radio, so I am not sure. However, I have an early Z radio from another car (unknown year) that has the matching T connector coming out of the radio

In the movie Slapshot, there is a scene where the team is sitting aroung drinking, in the afternoon, at the local bar. Some of the guys are watching a soap opera on T.V. in the bar and in the soap opera, one of the characters mentions that some evil broad sold her boyfriends' 260Z (apparantly without his knowledge or permission.)

R200 rear can be used but with 280 half shafts and mustache bar.

Ditto. None of the parts you mentioned are interchangeable. Just engine and tranny pretty much.

On my car, the power comes fromthe main harness to the blower sub-harness through the three-wire connector. By the way, my dash is from another Series 1, so I don't know the build date (I threw away the serial numbe plate) so it may be that is why the dash harness has the three-wire connector. If the harness was re-engineered to power the blower through the large single red wire, I would have expected that they would have also changed the blower sub-harness to do away with the three-wire connector too??? Why have an extra wire?? Have you ever been able to find the corresponding three-wire connector on the main harness to plug your three-wire on the blower sub-harness into?

If power is coming from the harness to the three-wire connector, then I think the single heavy red wire must be used to power something else. There is really no other possibility. I am curious to figure this out too. I have figured out just about everything on my electrical system but not everything. I don't know which circuit powers the rear defroster in the hatch glass. That is one possibility for the heavy red wire from the blower sub-harness.

By the way, if you have the single red wire powering the blower and you plug in the three-wire connector too, you will likely blow a fuse. One of us has to be wrong.

My build date is 10/70. There are three connectors. Obviously one goes to the blower motor resistor and one goes to the blower switch. The third, the one you describe, goes to a matching connector on the main harness. The matching connector on the main harness has a hot line as one of the three wires. I am having a similar problem to you. In my case, I cannot figure out what the individual red wire and the individual black wire on the blower sub-harness go to. When I plug the skinny three wire connector from the blower sub-harness into the matching connector on the main harness, the blower works (by the way, I did the Honda blower motor swap and it's great.) But I still don't know what the indivual red wire goes to. The red wire is hot when the ignition is on. P.S. - If you connect the single red wire to a power source and also connect the three-wire connector to its matching counter part, I predict you will blow a fuse. One of us is wrong.

I have a Series one and just re-connected my blower switch sub-harness. The three-pronged connector you describe takes power from the main harness and supplies power to the blower motor circuit. You can confirm that with a test light.

I have a cordless Makita Impact Driver with 3/8" drive. I use my regular sockets, and this is an awesome tool for light assembly/disassembly. Great tool to bring to the U-Pull junk yard to pull parts.

I have owned an early 260Z that had been converted to round top carbs and I presently own a 240Z. IMHO, the original 240Z is the true Z that is one of the most significant cars in automotive history. Many of the most significant changes going from the 240Z to the 260Z were to comply with Federal emissions and bumper and door stiffness requirements. These changes were NOT improvements IMHO. To me, the bumper changes alone were a complete destruction of the orginal lines and looked like crap. (This was not the only car that went through such a federally-mandated revision, hence, the rubber bumpers on the '74 MGB, which also looked like sh_t.) Few changes to the 240 were actual improvements. I don't like the crappy steering wheel on the 260 (which eventually deteriorates in the sun and falls apart) and the interior was not all that significantly different. The 280Z got fuel injection and a 5 speed, which were big improvements, but the 280 was heavier, but all in all, a good ride. Now don't get me wrong. I loved my 260Z and as I mentioned it had round top SU's. I also swapped the front bumper for a 240 Z "Euro" bumper and the car looked pretty good. But the 240Z is what the designers intended. All other Z's are just bastardized 240's. Still good, but not AS good.

I had a problem similar to yours in a 260Z that I had. I could never find the problem. I replaced the starter several times and that was not the problem. Most likely there is corrosion or a bad contact somewhere in the circuit. The solution I found was to buy a 6 volt solenoid from the autoparts store and wire it into the starter circuit. It takes 12V to trip the solenoid in the factory starter, but you may be getting only 10 of 11V. The 6 volt soleid which you can wire in without cutting or alterning any of the factory wiring, should solve your problem.

I am putting my '70 240 back together and I can't figure out the fan blower switch sub-harness wiring. I know where each of the three plugs go, but where do the red, blue and black individual wires go? The red is hot as soon as the ignition is "on." The blue and black go hot when I turn the blower switch on.