Al Squillante

I have a 1971 240 that I spent a great deal of time repaiting. rebuilt head,new fuel pump ,water pump , rebuilt carbs, new rear cylinders and shoes, new exhaust, refurbished gas tank etc etc. I moved to Florida and can not take it with me. Looking for someone who might be interested in buying. Also looking for any club on Long Island. Thanks Al

240Zman Thanks for the reply. I sent for a new gasket from courtesy parts in Texas. I think I have the same problem you had. The muffler tech has the back end too tight and the interface at the header is not parallel. When I get the new gasket I will have him try to tighten it up before he sets the rear end supports. He may have to bend the header pipe to get it aligned right. I wpuld have fixed it myself but at 74 years old I am avoiding going under the car. Thanks Al

i FINALLY GOT MY Z GOING BUT THE EXHAUST WAS SHOT. i COULDNT GET A REPLACEMENT FROM THE LOCAL FOREIGN PARTS DEALER AND WENT TO mIDAS. tHEY USED MY EXISTING HEADER AND BENT NEW 2 INCH PIPE AND ADDED TWO BULLET RESONATORS IN SERIES. oNE IN THE MIDDLE AND ONE AT THE REAR. tHE PROBLEM i HAVE IS THAT I KEEP GETTING LEAKS AT THE INTERFACE BETWEEN THE MANIFOLD AND THE HEADER. THE GASKETS I GOT ARE APPROXIMATEY 1/16 INCH THICK AND THIS IS MY SECOND GASKET AND IT STILL LEAKS AT THE INTERFACE. tHE SOUN IS GREAT EXCEPT FOR THE LEAK. iS THERE A THICKER GASKET AVAILABLE? aNY AADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. aL sQUILLANTE

After rebuilding the head the engine runs great. However I keep geting this backfire when I back off on the accelerator. It looks like the anti bacckfire valve is pumping air properly.

I tok the advice from one auto store and went to a boat supply shop and they had the right size lines and they were cheep.

I finally got my z engine temperature under control. The radiater was checked by a repair shop and they said it was not flowing enough. I wound up with a new radiator,new water pump and new thermostat and new antifreeze. I also had installed a new temperature sender and even though the engine is running cool the sender pegs the needle. I had this problem with my old sender and wound up putting a series resistor in line with the sender to make the needle run normal. I checked the antifreese temp with a submersible thermometer in the top of the radiator and it read between 160 and 170 deg. F. If any one out there knows anything about the properties of this sender please let me know. If I can locate a schematic I may be able to figure it out. Al S

I pulled out the thermostat and retested it. Seems to work OK. It opens up at a little under 180 F. I ran the car with the thermostat out and no pressure cap. After about 25 minutes the water in the radiator reached about 200 degrees and I shut down the engine but it was mount Vesuvious again. The pump seems to be wooking . I can see flow in the top of the radiator. If I touch the radiator it is hot on the drivers side and coll on the discharge side of the of the radiator. I think I will pul the radiator and have it checked and if NG will replace it. I probably will replace the pump. I know if I put the pressure cap on it willl raise the boiling point up by 30 + degrees but still dont think all is OK. Thanks for the response Al S

When it rains it pours. I finally finished installing my refurbished fuel tank . Added new vent lines and finally was able to start the engine. After adjusting the carb I got the engine running great. I want to retorque the head and check the valve clearances. I just completed installing the head after rebuild. However after running the engine for about 30 minutes it started to boil over. I checked the thermostat before I installed it and it was ok. I dont know where to start. Should I flush out the cooling system, pull the radiator , or pull the water pump or all of the above. The car was laid up in the garage for 15 yrs. I also see that I have a oil leak at the back of the engine which muight be the rear engine seal. Any help would be appreciated Al S

I finally located the 5/8 ID fuel hose at a boat shop. I inserted a %/* diameter spring that was six inches long and the hose bens well and maintains its shape. AlS

Bill D Thanks. I will give it a shot. Al S

LanceM I ordered the sender ,O-ring and clamp from my local dealer. Cost was $42 for all.(1971 Z) Al S

Bill D I am having a problem getting that large hose . No one seems to have a fuel hose with a 5/8 ID. I took the same approach and will splice yhe hose together when I can locate a length of hose. The 3/8 fuel hose works fine for reolacing the old 3/8 hose. Any info appreciated. AL S

Bart Thanks for getting back to me. I wound up using 1/16 stainless stranded wire in my drill and after a few minutes I broke through. Flushed it oout and blew it clear. Now working on replacing the vent hoses and might just get this Z running by the weekend. Al

Carl Thanks for getting back to me. I wound up taking the right and rear panels off and decided to cut the two hoses that needed replacement. The hoses protected by the interior of the car are in good shape. I am going to splice on new hose . All I need is the 5/8 and 5/16 hose . the other was already replaced. Once I get this done tomorrow I can get the tank ain and see how the engine runs. One step leads to another.

I know I have seen some discussions on the replacement of the vent hose to the fuel tank. I can't find them in the threads. There was a discussion of using standard vent hose and stainless tubing for the curves. Any advie for replacement hoses or originals would be appreciated/ Al