Al Squillante

I have a 1971 240 that I spent a great deal of time repaiting. rebuilt head,new fuel pump ,water pump , rebuilt carbs, new rear cylinders and shoes, new exhaust, refurbished gas tank etc etc. I moved to Florida and can not take it with me. Looking for someone who might be interested in buying. Also looking for any club on Long Island. Thanks Al

240Zman Thanks for the reply. I sent for a new gasket from courtesy parts in Texas. I think I have the same problem you had. The muffler tech has the back end too tight and the interface at the header is not parallel. When I get the new gasket I will have him try to tighten it up before he sets the rear end supports. He may have to bend the header pipe to get it aligned right. I wpuld have fixed it myself but at 74 years old I am avoiding going under the car. Thanks Al

i FINALLY GOT MY Z GOING BUT THE EXHAUST WAS SHOT. i COULDNT GET A REPLACEMENT FROM THE LOCAL FOREIGN PARTS DEALER AND WENT TO mIDAS. tHEY USED MY EXISTING HEADER AND BENT NEW 2 INCH PIPE AND ADDED TWO BULLET RESONATORS IN SERIES. oNE IN THE MIDDLE AND ONE AT THE REAR. tHE PROBLEM i HAVE IS THAT I KEEP GETTING LEAKS AT THE INTERFACE BETWEEN THE MANIFOLD AND THE HEADER. THE GASKETS I GOT ARE APPROXIMATEY 1/16 INCH THICK AND THIS IS MY SECOND GASKET AND IT STILL LEAKS AT THE INTERFACE. tHE SOUN IS GREAT EXCEPT FOR THE LEAK. iS THERE A THICKER GASKET AVAILABLE? aNY AADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. aL sQUILLANTE

After rebuilding the head the engine runs great. However I keep geting this backfire when I back off on the accelerator. It looks like the anti bacckfire valve is pumping air properly.

I tok the advice from one auto store and went to a boat supply shop and they had the right size lines and they were cheep.

I finally got my z engine temperature under control. The radiater was checked by a repair shop and they said it was not flowing enough. I wound up with a new radiator,new water pump and new thermostat and new antifreeze. I also had installed a new temperature sender and even though the engine is running cool the sender pegs the needle. I had this problem with my old sender and wound up putting a series resistor in line with the sender to make the needle run normal. I checked the antifreese temp with a submersible thermometer in the top of the radiator and it read between 160 and 170 deg. F. If any one out there knows anything about the properties of this sender please let me know. If I can locate a schematic I may be able to figure it out. Al S

I pulled out the thermostat and retested it. Seems to work OK. It opens up at a little under 180 F. I ran the car with the thermostat out and no pressure cap. After about 25 minutes the water in the radiator reached about 200 degrees and I shut down the engine but it was mount Vesuvious again. The pump seems to be wooking . I can see flow in the top of the radiator. If I touch the radiator it is hot on the drivers side and coll on the discharge side of the of the radiator. I think I will pul the radiator and have it checked and if NG will replace it. I probably will replace the pump. I know if I put the pressure cap on it willl raise the boiling point up by 30 + degrees but still dont think all is OK. Thanks for the response Al S

When it rains it pours. I finally finished installing my refurbished fuel tank . Added new vent lines and finally was able to start the engine. After adjusting the carb I got the engine running great. I want to retorque the head and check the valve clearances. I just completed installing the head after rebuild. However after running the engine for about 30 minutes it started to boil over. I checked the thermostat before I installed it and it was ok. I dont know where to start. Should I flush out the cooling system, pull the radiator , or pull the water pump or all of the above. The car was laid up in the garage for 15 yrs. I also see that I have a oil leak at the back of the engine which muight be the rear engine seal. Any help would be appreciated Al S

I finally located the 5/8 ID fuel hose at a boat shop. I inserted a %/* diameter spring that was six inches long and the hose bens well and maintains its shape. AlS

Bill D Thanks. I will give it a shot. Al S

LanceM I ordered the sender ,O-ring and clamp from my local dealer. Cost was $42 for all.(1971 Z) Al S

Bill D I am having a problem getting that large hose . No one seems to have a fuel hose with a 5/8 ID. I took the same approach and will splice yhe hose together when I can locate a length of hose. The 3/8 fuel hose works fine for reolacing the old 3/8 hose. Any info appreciated. AL S

Bart Thanks for getting back to me. I wound up using 1/16 stainless stranded wire in my drill and after a few minutes I broke through. Flushed it oout and blew it clear. Now working on replacing the vent hoses and might just get this Z running by the weekend. Al

Carl Thanks for getting back to me. I wound up taking the right and rear panels off and decided to cut the two hoses that needed replacement. The hoses protected by the interior of the car are in good shape. I am going to splice on new hose . All I need is the 5/8 and 5/16 hose . the other was already replaced. Once I get this done tomorrow I can get the tank ain and see how the engine runs. One step leads to another.

I know I have seen some discussions on the replacement of the vent hose to the fuel tank. I can't find them in the threads. There was a discussion of using standard vent hose and stainless tubing for the curves. Any advie for replacement hoses or originals would be appreciated/ Al

Bart I have attempted to pass a wire through the pick up tube and cant get it to go through. Is there a filter at the end of the tube. I sprayed carburetor cleaner in the tube and it just drips out. If I put my compressor there the cleaner comes out ok. Al

After carefully looking at my tank after getting it from Moyers I noticed that there were no openings in the baffle to allow fuel to level from one side of the baffle to the other. I called Moyers and they were not very helpfull. At best they said if I shipped it back they would look at it. I used a dremil tool an a long piece of wood and was able to open a slot between the baffle and the tank about one inch long and about 1/32 wide . Is there any one out there that can tell me how large should the openings be and where they are located. I am sorry I didn't look at the tank that carefully before I sent it out. Apparentlly the lining material they used sealed off any openings. Al

26thZ I looked very carefully at the interface between the baffle and the tank . I see some puddling on the right and left side of the baffle at the lower curvature and suspect this might be the area for equalizing the gas level. The only way that I can think of checking this is by putting a fluid on one side of the baffle and seeing if it vents thru. An alternative would be to drill a hole at the lower end of the baffle. Al

I just got my fuel tank back from Moyer renu. They did a very nice job but wnen I looked inside I noticed a baffle between the shallow tank section and the large tank section. The supply to the fuel line is in the shallow section on the other side of the baffle. The baffle is about three inches high. I do not see any way for fuel to get to the supply line once the fuel gets below the baffle level. Once the fuel is exhausted in the shallow end there would be considerable fuel in the large end that would be left with no way of getting on the other end of the baffle. Could the material they used internal to the tank closed off any pasaageway. I hope you can understand this. Confused AL

Just goot my refurbished gas tank from Moyers fuel tank renu. Looks a lot better than when I sent it to them. I have to get in touch with them since they did not snd me back the rubber pads. They did a nice job on the repair.($275 including $50 for shipping both ways ) The tank straps are not in the best shape. I will weld some reinforcement to fix them. I tryed to get new ones but no one seems to have them. The next thing I want to tackle is the exhaust system. I have a local parts place trying to locate the system. I had a Ansa system on it before I retired the car to the garage. Once I get the exhaust in place I will install the fuel tank and cant 'wait to get the engine running. Al Any leads on an exhaust system will be appreciated

Thanks to all I contacted Moyer Fuel tank renew and made arrangements to ship my tank out today for them to repair it. I think the local shop did not want to tackle it. It doesnt look that bad to me . The walls look solid. Thanks Al Squillante

Victor Thanks for the reply. Those areas are a good distance away but I will try to locate them in a closer location. Al

Just got back from the gas tank repair shop . They said my tank was to far gone to clean it and reline the inside. If true I have to try and get a gas tank from some where. Any hints where I can get one would be appreciated. It seems like I make two steps forward and then one back. Getting to old for this. Thanks Al Squillante

Bart I finally got to the point where I cut the feed and return hose at the tank. When I blew air froom the front to the back dirty gas came out and the lines aare clear. The tank is a different story. It is loaded with rust and the inlet gas pipe was clogged. I ran a flexible cable through it and it seems OK. I have to have the tank cleaned and coated internally if it can be salvaged. If not I have to look for a replacement tank. Thanks Al

Steve By the time I got your input I had dropped the tank and then blew air from froont to the hose that goes to the tank and it was clear. I also did the same ot the return and it was clear. Gas came out of both lines and they appear to be clear. The tank is another problem. It is loaded with rust and I am not sure if I can have it cleaned and coated internally. I think I probably could have got it going using your technique. However the tank and all the vent hoses were very bad and I just as well did what I did. Thanks Al