peterc

Seems the only parts that you're missing for a complete rebuild is the slave cylinder and the flex hose. Neither are expensive (relatively), and by replacing the whole system you avoid the dreaded "fix one part only to damage another" syndrome. Plus, you get the peace of mind that comes with knowing that particular system is new and will remain trouble free for many years.

Am meeting with Dan today. Will take print-outs of the various diagrams and will inquire about the 'card system'. The diagrams, while not a replacement for the actual thing, should give Dan a pretty good idea of the level of complexity of the project. Will update everyone accordingly.

(ajmcforester) I understand the exhaust system is now off the car. Is it disassembled? If I recall correctly none of the individual pieces were that long. Just thinking, if we can't get something local, it would be far cheaper and quicker to ship your exhaust system up rather than wait til spring and trailer up the entire car.

Thanks for all the replies. I figured there might be some interest. Gordon (ggarrard) Yeah thought we might run into that problem. But I figured come spring most people would rather be driving than give up their car for a couple of days. I was hoping we might find someone with a stock system already off the car. Also, I'll check with Dan regarding the "card system" , although you'd think he'd already be aware of such a system. Ron (geezer). Thanks and I agree (being a former client) Stebro's stuff is top notch. (ajmcforrester) Thanks for the offer. Wonder what the shipping costs would be? In my experience shipping across the border using USPS is reasonably quick and less expensive than the alternatives. On the other hand hopefully we can come up with something local. And as Arne (who, by the way, has been a tremendous help behind the scenes) pointed out, any jigs from back in the day would be long gone. In fact, I'm not certain that they ever built complete systems specifically for the Zs. All I could get for my original Z (and that was 30 some years ago) was the muffler itself. And it was a generic unit that serviced several makes and models. Arne (Arne) Again, thanks for all the help. Thanks for the head's-up on the header, totally forgot about the square-ported heads. Am I mistaken in thinking that you could use one header for either round or square ported heads? Going forward, once we have the donor car(s) or exhaust system(s) in place, Dan will fab up a system, tune it, work out any manufacturing issues and determine option feasibility (number of tips/orientation, header feasibility, etc). Once ready, we'll take some pictures of the system (laid out on the floor as well as installed) and post them for your opinion. By this point we should have some pretty solid price points and minimum order numbers. Again, thanks for everyones interest. I'll keep you posted. peter

I'm working on a project to see if we can have custom designed stainless exhaust systems manufactured for our Zs. If all works out well, options would include: entire systems (including stainless header); downpipe-back; CAT-back; down-pipe only and muffler only. Muffler options would include: single or dual tips, in either vertical or horizontal orientation. Initial feasibility studies are promising, ie: low minimum order numbers and favorable pricing. The manufacturer (STEBRO) is located here in Ottawa and has extensive experience manufacturing systems for Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porche. As my '73 has no exhaust system (hence the interest) I need an early Z (pre-CAT) and a later model (with CAT) with stock exhaust systems for measurement purposes. No Zs will be harmed in the process, . If you live in the area and can help please send me a pm and we'll set something up. Thanks, peter

The Sharpie results are awesome. Once it's dried, so you clear-coat it or just leave it as is. I'm curious about the durability factor, i.e. do you have to re-coat on a regular basis?

So....are you going to give us the answer or just keep us hangin?

Beautiful! I know that leather workers soak the leather to soften and stretch it. Don't think that will work with vinyl, . Do you use a heat gun?

Nice write-up. thanks Phred.

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I can't seem to find any relevant info. In order to solve/eliminate an electrical problem I'd like to replace the ignition module in my '83 with the "standard GM four-pin HEI module" as described in this as well as other write-ups. Problem is, nobody identifies the part number making it difficult to source here in the great white north. My local auto parts suppliers say the part number is D1906, or GM OEM number 19180771. However, that part runs $CDN 110.00. Thats a far cry from the "about $20.00" indicated in all the write-ups. Do I have the wrong part number, have the prices skyrocketed, or is the exchange rate now 550%? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Peter

I guess it's all a matter of degree. As I mentioned in my reply, it is normal for the needle to move on acceleration/deceleration. However, if the headlights go from bright to pissholes in the snow and/or there's extreme movement indicated by the voltage guage, then at the very least Dave, you have a potential customer for the upgrade harness. I hate using the "replacement" system of problem solving. You tend to accumulate a lot of perfectly good spare parts before you actually resolve the issue. Oh well, the battery probably needed replacing anyway.....right? . Sometimes a corrosion problem can be detected using the following equation: power + bad connection = heat. If any electrical terminals seem extaordinarily hot, or you smell melting plastic, it's not a good sign. Definitely, Dave's wiring harness is a great investment, especially if you have or are planning a headlight upgrade. Good luck.

Hmmm. Seems a bit steep. There's a machine shop here in Ottawa that removes unmolested broken studs for $30.00 a pop. He charges more if they have been played with, e.g. broken EZ Outs, etc. The "trick" as I understand it is to make sure the head is properly positioned and secured to a drill press. He positions the head so that the appropiate drill will pass cleanly into one of the open bolt holes,then locks the head in place, then moves the drill to the problem bolt hole.

I'm thinking this is probably an electrical issue (sorry, it's early and I haven't had my coffee yet, ). When you step on the gas the engine and alternator turn faster. It's completely normal for the voltage meter needle to move when you accelerate/decelerate, although the movement should be minimal. Big swings indicate a problem. Three obvious possibilities: weak battery; weak alternator/voltage regulator; corroded cables/connections. Is this a new problem or endemic? How old is the battery? What year is the car? If this is a relatively new phenonom and/or the battery is old, then likely the battery needs replacing or you have a corrosion issue. On the other hand, if this is "normal" for this car, then it could be an underperforming alternator/voltage regulator or, again, corrosion. First thing to do (cuz it's free) is to check ALL wires/cables connected to the battery and the alternator (and voltage regulator if it's external). Don't cheat and just look at them. Take them apart, one at a time, and look for signs of corrosion (anything NOT metal is bad). If they look good, clean them up using a small piece of fine sandpaper and reconnect them. Remember, a shiny connector is a happy connector! The battery posts/cables would be a good place to start. Many an electrical issue has been solved just by replacing the negative (ground) battery cable. In fact, if you haven't replaced the ground cable in the last five years or so, now would be as good a time as any. It's a cheap fix (or insurance against future problems); an easy job (even for someone of limited experience. It connects to the top bolt of the starter motor); and will give you great satisfaction in having done it yourself. If corrosion is/was the problem you may still end up replacing the battery as the plates may have become sulphated from improper charging. If it turns out that corrosion wasn't the problem and if the battery is old, it may just need replacing. They don't last forever and the symptoms you describe are typical for a failing battery. If that's the case, it's a hundred buck fix, and you can do it yourself (wear old clothes and wash your hands thoroughly afterward, battery acid is nasty). From what you've described it sounds like the alternator/voltage regulator is functioning properly. However, if corrosion and/or the battery weren't the problem, then I'd get the alternator/regulator looked at. Older cars had external regulators, newer cars, internal. If the alternator was ever replaced by P.O. it's likely now internal. Most shops will check alternators for free if you feel comfortable removing it and taking it in. Again, an easy job, just remember where all the little wires are connected to. If it's bad, well then you just have to install the new one. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Might be a clogged fuel filter. Remove the fuel return hose (the one NOT attached to the fuel filter) and insert it in a clear pop/water bottler. You should hear the fuel pump start when you turn the key to the "on" position. It should run for 3 or 4 seconds. If the pump is running properly and the filter isn't clogged the bottle should fill pretty rapidly. If not, then something is clogged. Could be the filter in the pump itself, the main filter on the passenger side of the fender or even one of the fuel lines themselves. Usual culprit in this situation is rust from the gastank. If thats the case a search of previous threads will show you how to clean/seal the tank.

My first guess would be something electrical as well Chris. If I understand correctly this seems to be an either/or situation. Runs normal or not at all. Power on, power off. Does it ever cut out on you when stopped or at idle, or only when you're moving? If only when moving, could be bad connection that's affected by vibration. Next time it happens, pull over and see if there are any extra hot wires. If its a bad electrical connection you'll know by the heat. When it cuts out, can you still hear the fuel pump running, assuming you have an electrical pump? Any other electricals affected when it cuts out? Radio, guages, lights, etc still work? Have you tried (CAREFULLY) wiggling any accessible wiring under the hood while the car is idling to see if you can reproduce the symptions?