peterc

Easy way to find out is to remove the thermostat and run the car without it. If it still heats up, try runing the car with the rad cap off (make sure the engine is cold before you remove the cap). If you don't see water flowing then the pump is worn and needs replacing. If the water is flowing then likely the rad is clogged, restricting the flow. Hope this helps. Cheers, Peter

Hell Yeah, it does look sexy. I think mainly because it's so nice and shiny. The rusty bits don't look near as niceROFL Cheers, Peter

Ball joints...PPPFFFTTT!! If you really want to screw up, "forget" to add tranny fluid to your professionally (read expensive) rebuilt transmission when you reinstall it. :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: How professional can they be if they don't even add tranny fluid?? Trust me, no matter how noisy your ball joints are you'll never hear them. Cheers Peter p.s. Doesn't it always make you feel better when you hear about someone screwing up worse than you?

If your not terribly anal about having a spare tire why not use the tire well for a subwoofer?

Mark, As 2Many stated, the seal goes on the glass first, then is fitted to the hatch. I've refitted the rear glass on my '72 and am in the process of doing same on my '83. I install them with the hatch already installed in the car. Once you have the seal properly installed around the glass, run a thick strong cord in the groove (the one that fits in the hatch) starting at the top, and tie it at the bottom in the middle so that the ends hang down about 2 ft. Apply a generous amount of silicone to the seal to help it slide home. Some manuals suggest using soapy water, but I've found that it dries too quickly and you risk trapping water under the seal, which leads to rusty hatches (been there, done that :dead:). With the hatch closed. position the glass on the bottom lip of the hatch. You should easily be able to completely fit the bottom part of the seal into the hatch (make sure that the cord is not sticking out anywhere, except for the ends). There, you're a quarter of the way home. Have a buddy stand at the back of the Z to gently but firmly push down on the glass as you (from the inside) pull one of the cords perpendicularly. Just make sure the you and your buddy are moving in the same direction. As you pull on the cord you will pull the seal out and over the hatch lip. Work you way up one side and around the top corner and stop. Now you're half way home :classic:. Now start at the bottom again, pulling the other end of the cord up the other side. Once you get to the top then start pulling on both ends towards the middle (If you just continue to pull from one side you risk having the cord slide out instead of pulling the seal out). And voila, you done . The secret is to have a buddy pushing against the glass. That way the only way the cord can come free is by pulling the seal over the lip of the hatch. Good luck Peter

Scary, If you have a problem trying to get a replacement gastank check out "Mr. Gastank" in the Yellow pages. I'm sure they're an American company, and if we have one here in Ottawa, there must be one close to you. They take your old tank, sand blast it, repair any leaks, and cover the entire tank in polyeurathane. When I couldn't find a replacement tank for my 83ZX I checked them out. The tank looks brand new and it comes with a lifetime warranty against rust-outs. It cost me $125, but I would expect it would cost less in the U.S. Cheers, Peter

ya I have to agree. That carpet does look pretty pathetic. On the other hand, a nice shag........

Hi I did this conversion about 2 years ago. The only real pain is switching from gas/brake pedal to gas/brake/clutch. You have to change the 'bracket' that they attach to as the one for automatic trannies won't work. It's a pretty tight fit, especially working upside down, if you don't take the dash out first. But other than that it's a pretty easy swap. The holes for the clutch master cylinder are already cut into the firewall (they have a cover over them) and the tranny will bolt right up. Of course you will have to install the hydralic line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, but again, the rubber supports are already there (holding the brake line). Good luck. If you run into any problems just write. Peter

Michael, That was hilarious! Can't you just see an engineer gone 'postal', holding someone hostage with a soldering iron?!?! HAHAHA. Well, at least you have the berries to admit you got caught. Cheers, Peter

As I understand it, single stage means 1 piston compressor, dual stage means two piston. A dual stage will fill the tank faster than a single stage. Peter

I too have never really been comfortable with gloves. With heavier gloves (even the Mechanix) sometimes you don't have the 'touch' that you need or as ScaryFast mentioned they snag, and thinner gloves (latex etc) are constantly ripping and/or make your hands too sweaty. Sure you can alwas take them off when you need a fine touch, but then your hands get dirty and that sort of defeats the purpose, doesn't it. And for those that don't have 'normal' hands, finding ones that fit properly can be a challenge. On the other hand, rubbing Palmolive (hope I don't sound like a shill ) dish soap into your hands BEFORE starting work allows you to get into really tight areas and gives you maximum touch. I've found that it also helps protect your hands from chemicals and small abrasions (maybe thats why "Madge" soaks her hands in it). And when you're finished working ALL the dirt etc, washes right off, no scrubbing, not pummice, etc. Daniel, I love your tip about the stainless sinks, I definitely will have to try that, nothing worse than making Thai Noodles for company then sitting down with garlic hands . To those that prefer gloves, and they sure do come in handy when workiing with HOT car parts, more power to you. As the French say "chacun a son gout" which translates as "to each their own swollen toe . Cheers Peter

"I plan to run the engine untill at normal temp and introduce mystery oil into the intakes to coat everything while the engine is running and shut it down and drain the oil , that is clean,and remove the filter." Am I misreading something or do you intend to store the engine without oil, or are you just replacing the oil and fiter? I have a friend who preps his cars for winter/long term storage by replacing the oil and filter, then keeps adding oil until it completely fills the engine including the head. This keeps the cam and rockers etc. well-oiled and minimizes the chances of rust forming. A little oil sprayed into the clinders through the spark plug holes (and subsequently replace the plugs), and he's all set. I must say it's a little startling the first time you unscrew the oil cap and see a head completely submerged in oil, but he's never had any problems with engines that have been prepped this way. Also, will introducing the mystery oil while the engine is running give you the same protection as spraying it in after the engine is shut down?

One thing I've noticed about this site is that most (if not all) members here actually like getting their hands dirty, i.e. do their own mechanicals and body work, to the limit of their individual capabilities. However, if your significant other (otherwise known as She Who Must Be Obeyed) is anything like mine, showing up at the (fill in the blank....Govenor's Party, Afternoon Tea, Soiree, Hallowe'en party, etc) with dirty hands or fingernails....is definitely verboten. One way I've found that allows me to work on my Zs to my heart's desire and still look presentable afterward, is to rub a handfull of liquid dish soap into my hands BEFORE I start working. Just rub it in well, (NO WATER) particularly around the fingernails and cuticles. Surprisingly it isn't the least bit slippery. If anything I find it gives you a little better grip. When you're finished working, just add a little more and wash normally and ALL the dirt/grease/blood etc. washes right off. There are commercial hand protectors (LIquid Glove etc) but the ones I've tried don't work as well as dish soap and are expensive. I can't speak for other dish soaps, but the one I use, the green Polmolive, works great. Cheers Peter

??? Hhmmmm... Now I'm gonna have to go out to the garage (-20) and see if the handles from my '78 are any different from the ones on my '73. If remember correctly, they're identical. Peter

Frank, Yes they will fit but there are some subtle differences that you will have to deal with. I just finished doing the reverse, putting 240 door panels (from a '72) onto doors from a '78. The armrest mounting locations are different as is the location for the door lock. Both required some cutting and hammering to fit the 'new' panels. The window crank and interior door handle are in the same locations, and the door panels fit the door frame the same. Peter

Thanks for the input guys. I was hoping to hear from people who had some real-time experience with POR as opposed to 'testimonials' and magazine articles. I'm always suspicious when there are loads of ads for products in magazines which just 'happen' to be testing that particular product. Enrique, I've done a couple of restorations, but 2 dozen? I guess it must be easier when you're on an Air Force salary (hehehe). And I'll have to remember that tip, using POR to rethread stripped out nuts . Carl, you're right of course. If you're going to use the product, might as well use it properly, although as I said, I have read here of people taking shortcuts with POR. Hope it works for them. Cheers!

Hey Z, Don't you just hate buggers that do that, and this guy has the nerve to tell you he's doing it!!?!? I think Ben's advise is best. If you really want this particular Z, well sometiomes you just gotta plug your nose and do it. Call him one time only and tell him that you don't like being played off against another bidder and that your offer expires in (x) hours (you decide how many, but the shorter, the more pressuse HE'S under to decide). Now the monkey is on his back. If you get the Z, well congrats, you got it on YOUR terms . If not, you at least have the satisfaction of not being played for a fool.

Good input guys. I'm not trying to bad-mouth any particular product, or promote one rustproofing method over another, just curious as to other's opinion. Rust is THE big bug-a-boo of Z's and we all have better things to do (like DRVING:) ) than sit under a Z cutting out rusty metal. I was just wondering if other methods/products, e.g. undercoating, rockerguard, tarmats etc., might offer similar protection with less effort and/or cost. Carl, I have looked at POR's website, and I agree with you, "proper application is critical". However, from what I've read on this site (Classic Zcar), not all people that use POR-15 religously folllow all the required steps. So.......? p.s. loved your postscript...."another of my $.02 USD" (the USD was a nice touch ). Converting form USD to Canadian $ hurts....think dog years. EScanlon, If my post was misleading, I apologize. I don't expect any product to 'guarantee' protection from rust (IF ONLY:) ). I'm just curious if its possible to go overboard trying to stop rust. As I mentioned, people that buy Zs today are enthusiasts and, after spending way too much time restoring their toys (just ask your wife ), are highly unlikely subject them to the weather conditions that caused the rust in the first place. So do we really have to go to extremes (time/money wise) to 'protect' them from conditions that they will never be exposed to? Peter p.s. Don't mind me. I've got 2 Z's up on blocks...so I can't drive them...it's winter...and -30...so I can't even work on them . It's even too cold to sit in the garage and make 'vroom-vroom' noises .

Just thought I'd throw this out for discussion. We all know that rust is the overriding and everpresent threat to all z's. From what I've read the general concensus of the people doing restorations is that you should remove all undercoatings, tarmats etc; cut out any seriously rusted metal and weld in new panels (which I agree with); and then apply the POR-15 treatment to as much of the car as you can afford. It's the last step that I'm having trouble with. As I understand it, POR-15 is a multi-step process (sort of like AA for cars ), and is rather expensive, particularly when dealing with exchange rates. Ignoring the cost issues (difficult for those of Scottish background ), does POR-15 offer an better protection than other options such as rust paints (Tremclad, etc), or tar-based undercoatings. The problem with factory applied, and after-market, undercoatings and tarmats is that they can trap moisture which leads to rust. Who hasn't felt their heart drop when peeling off intact undercoating only to discover mushy, rusty metal underneath? But would POR-15 be any different? Sooner or later moisture will find its way to the metal under the POR-15 coating, either from a rock chip, or running over a curb, or a stress crack or whatever. Once this happens, won't the POR-15 trap the moisture just like its cheaper counterparts? Something to remember is that we're dealing with 20-30 year old cars, most of which have been winter-driven or exposed to salt-air, with little or no attention ever having been paid to preservation (that is, until we got our hands on them ). I have yet to hear anyone say that after restoration they intend to drive their Z in the winter or neglect them as previous owners have. So, I guess what I'm wondering is, if the cars survived 20-30 years under less than optimal care and conditions with only the factory undercoatings, shouldn't they last equally as long using similar products since they won't be subjected to the same misuse and abuse? And can you reasonably expect POR-15 or similar products to last any longer? Has anyone had any long term experience (10+ years) with POR-15? Comments?

If anyone actually bids on them the should be made to wear them as ear-rings (the Z version of a dunce hat ).

Steve, Congratulations on the 'new' addition to the family. I've noticed that there are a number of people on this site who have a visceral dislike of anything other than early Z's. While they tolerate later Z's, They feel that the 280 and 300 series ZX's are abominations and don't deserve the Z name let alone be mentioned on this site. Up until last fall I was one of them. Then, just as with yourself, I unexpectedly came into possession of a 1983 280ZX. My original intention was to salvage the mechanicals (engine/tranny, etc), but once I had a chance to actually sit and look the car over (as well as drive it ), I began to appreciate it's style more. Its a more musculine, modern design, sexy in a jet fighter rather than feline way. The larger stronger bumpers are worked into the design rather than being stuck on like carbuncles a la 77-78 Z's. And the car's parentage is clearly evident. From the long hood/short deck, hatchback, bucket headlights, to the rear quarter windows there is no doubt this is a Z. Even the layout of the dash with the location of the voltage, oil pressure, water temperature guages and clock is pure Z. Begin rant.....(I wish that Datsun had followed Porche's lead when it comes to design, particularly with the 911. You can see how they constantly massaged the desigh through the years, sometimes making them taller and narrower, sometimes lower, or wider, or with enormous wheel wells, whale tails etc, etc. But no matter what the year, you KNOW it's a 911! Datsun could have done the same thing with the Z. The 280 ZX's are clearly derived from the 240's but Datsun really went off the rails, design wise, with the 300ZX. And don't even mention the 350. Although I'm beginning to actually 'like' its design, they really shouldn't call it a Z.).....End rant. Where was I? Ah yes, the 280 ZX. The frame is certainly much stronger, I experienced almost no twisting or flexing even though the body panels are very rusty. And the engine, even stock, has plenty of oomph. So maybe all it takes is owning one to begin to appreciate them a little more . Enjoy the ride. Peter

It should 'work' no problem, depending on what you are trying to do. There is a reason why fusible links blow faster than regular fuses... to protect the wiring harnesses and electronic equipment upstream from electrical damage due to a faulty alternator. Without the fusible links you could end up with melted wiring harnesses, blown electronics or even fires. Having said that, if you were to use quick-blow fuses, which act the same as the fusible links, then there shouldn't be any problem. It sure looks neater (I can't find a replacement cover for my fusible link base ), and would make replacement much easier and less expensive, as long as you aren't concerned about the 'originality'issue. Peter

He Cardogman, Awesome car . Very nice! Just a word of caution (mabe). As you bought the car, in part, for investment purposes I would be leery of repainting it without checking what, if any, effects that might have on its value. While I personally prefer the all silver paint scheme (without the black-striped hood and hatch), from an investment standpoint, a car can be restored an infinite amount of times, but is original only once. Repainting may adversely affect its value. I had a '72 back in my youth, and thought it was as indestructable as I was. Alas, time was not kind to either of us (although at least I'm still around to tell the tale ). It's been a long time, enjoy the ride. Peter Peter

Can't help you with a value (other than WAY more than $1,800 . However, in my neck of the woods, when dealing with 'older' cars insurance companies will always lowball you unless you've had the car professionally appraised. Appraisers tend to be quite reasonable (read generous) when valuing your precious metal and the insurance companies (around here anyway) will accept their evaluations at face value. However, you can expect an increase in insurance costs as the car is worth more. Peter

Just a quick note to add when loosening flare nuts. Even with the proper flare wrench you should loosen them VERY slowly at first. Keep an eye out for the nut binding to the tube/line. If the tube turns with the nut, its binding and will break, then you end up replacing that section of brake or clutch line . If it is binding, try tightening the nut a little. Keep repeating this, tighten/untighten, and with a little luck the nut will free itself from the line and you're home free. Spraying the junction witha little WD40 or something similar beforehand sometimes helps as well. Peter