73 240Z Man

Ok fella's, I have to break in here... my brain is hurting. I will give you a little background... The car has a L26 which was rebuilt and bored to a L28, high lift cam etc around 20 years ago... It has always had timing issues ever since. I believe the mechanic that rebuilt it installed the distributor off a tooth since I cannot get it timed right.. As it is, when the #1 is at TDC, the rotor is pointing to roughly 8:00 which seems to be correct to me but I cant get enough advance into it to make it run right. When advanced all the way, it barely runs at idle, but runs great above 3500 RPM. I tried moving the plug wires to the right (clockwise) but then had the opposite problem. (It had to be retarded as far as possible and it ran better at idle, but popped/etc at high RPM. I think this means it's off one tooth and if I am not mistaken, I need to remove the oil pump and rotate the shaft counter clockwise... Please correct me if I'm wrong.. Thanks for all of your input thus far.... please keep it coming... Chris

I think my distributor is off a tooth.. I adjusted the timing all the way clockwise and it barely starts and has no low end... it screams at high rpms though.... any ideas? Also, does any1 have any idea how much difference one tooth makes?

Fellas.... I am trying to adjust the timing on my Z. :mad: I think the distributor is off a gear, but before I remove the Oil Pump I want to make sure where the # 1 Cylinder is suppose do be on the distributor. Right now, It is around 8:00 looking from the drivers fender when 1# is @ TDC on compression. PLEASE HELP. Send pics if possible... I can't quite get enough timing into it as it is now... I am working on it now, so quick (and accurate) replies would be greatly appreciated Chris

Does anyone know the valve cover torque setting? I took it off for polishing and cannot find the setting in the FSM... Thinking of using the good Old German "goodntight" method...

The FSM says 153624.... Don't know what my Z's actual firing order is since I'm at work... But I will check and get back to you... @ Ophit-alphabet.... I would have to disagree... I am pretty happy with my 36 year old..

I have an oil leak at the rear of the engine at the front of the trans. It is coming from above the oil pan, so I am pretty sure it is the rear main seal. What is the best way to replace this seal? What else should I do/replace while I'm in there? Chris

Regarding the pressure test, it has been a while and I am not sure of the exact numbers... I do recall them being within 15% of each other though. As for the vent, I am pretty sure it is exhaust as it is white smoke which smells like exhaust. Regarding the leak down test, do you do this with the cylinders dry or should I squirt some Marvels oil in there before? Does anyone know the valve leash that is recommended? It was my dad's car to begin with and he told me today he believes it had hydrolic rockers which were swapped out for solid ones for more power. Does that sound correct? If so, does this change the valve leash setting? Thank you again to everyone who has responded.. Chris

Just about any carb mechanic can tune Holley's

I did a compression test about a year ago or so and all the cylinders pressures were between 119-125 (if I remember correctly). The exhaust is coming from the vent on the top of the valve cover and not the crank case. It has probably been 20+ years since the valves have been adjusted. Could that be the problem? If so, how do you do it. I have some fair mechanical skills, just need info and I am sure I can do it. The crank case vent has a smaller amount of exhaust blow by coming out of it so perhaps this means the problem is with the valves? Thanks for all the input so far. Keep it coming! Chris

Today I attempted to find out where my oil leak is coming from.The leak is at the rear of the oil pan but coming from where the engine meets the transmission. Does that mean it is the rear main seal? If so, can I replace it without removing the engine? As I was diagnosing the leak, I found exhaust coming from the hose which is connected to the PCV vent (top of the valve cover). I think this means exhaust is getting past the rings and into the case and eventually . Am I correct? Does this mean I need to rebuild the engine? Please help.

I am running off the mechanical pump. The rear electric pump is till in line but I don't think it is working. Thanks for the info.... Chris

I have a couple of problems with my fuel lines that I need help with. First, there are two metal fuel lines in the engine compartment coming from the tank. One is connected to the pump and the other is NOT connected and has, of all things, a golf tee shoved into it. When the tee is removed gas comes out of the line. I am assuming that this is the fuel return line. The car has tripple mikuni's and the fuel line dead ends at the third carb. I am wondering if I need the other fuel line or can I eliminate it? If I can eliminate it, where should I cap it off? Second, when I filled up the gas tank, gas started leaking everywhere... It was apparently near the top of the tank and I am assuming is the fill spout or something. I put in about 10 galons added to the 2 or 3 galons I am guessing was already in the tank. The gas stopped leaking after about 1/2 gallon leaked out. I am going to drop the tank and wanted to know what I am in for and what kind of tubing should I purchase in preparation for this job? (size, quantity, etc.) In case my user name doesn't give it away, it is a '73 240.

I agree... Bad battery... prob left something on. Dome light, etc. Bump start it and drive home... Don't shut it off until you are home. It will prob start when you get home but I would have it tested. Autozone will test it for free.

Thanks Adrian... That worked... 1 problem down 300,000 left. Thanks again... Chris

Did you ever get an answer on this....?

I think I understand now.... The green/white (yellow) wire and the black/white wire do a loop to/from the tach and need to be connected between/from the pertronix to the coil after the resistor... Makes sense... Thank you... I am not off work for a couple more days, but will let you know if it works.... Thanks

Alright, I tried connecting the green/ylw (or wht) wire to the neg side of the coil and the car wouldn't start. Plus when I disconnected the jumper wire it was hot. The car started fine without the wire connected and after it was running I reconnected it and the tach still didn't work. Now I am back where I started. Any Ideas?

Thanks a bunch. I will give that a shot.. And thank you, I am gradually feeling better.

I installed the pertronix and removed the MSD at the same time. And the green/yellow could very well be green/faded-37 year old-white.. It is possible to remove the tach but I just had abdominal surgery and will be layed up for about a month... Thanks for identifying the other two wires... If I understand you correctly, I can remove that block, right? If the green/ylw Or white wire is the tach wire, I connect that to the negative side of the coil, right? Thanks for your help... Chris

I have tripple Mikuni's...

I don't know if i should replace the manual fuel pump with an electric. Plus my stock rear electric pump is not working but has power. Here is the thread... I posted it and got no replies... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37882 Help...

I thought I was tall at 6'1". Man there are some tall Z freaks out there. No offense intended.....

Well, I am definately no expert, and I share your frustration when it comes to not understanding certain parts of the car, but I put in Pertronix into my 73 240 without a problem. Maybe its because I have so little experience so I followed the directions to a T, but it works great. No more problems with the points. I think you should give it another try. Pretend you are me and dont know what you are doing. I am happy with the Pertronix ignition. IMHO, Chris

A/C or no A/C... That is the question? I have all of the stock A/C equipment for my 73 240 and all but the compressor is still installed. The Z has a fairly built motor but the rest of the car needs alot of TLC. She was my first car and I got her back not too long ago. I am beginning the process of restoring her as money and time permits. I do live in southern California but I am leaning more toward eliminating the A/C. What do you think....Should I keep the A/C or Go without? Please reply...Give me your thoughts.

I put in the MSD. Although it was years ago, I am sure I didn't put anything behind the tach. It connected through the stock wiring. There are a total of 4 wires coming out of the stock wiring loom at the coil. They are as follows. 1. Black/White stripe wire connected to the positive side of the coil. 2. Green/Yellow stripe wire connected to block under coil. (nothing connectied to the other side of the block which I believe is due to the pertronix) 3. Black/Yellow wire (not connected) 4. Black wire (not connected) The coil also has 4 wires connected as follows; 1. Red wire connected to the positive side of the coil running to the pertronix 2. Black wire connected to the negative side of the coil running to the pertronix 3. Blue wire connected to the positive side running to the ballast resistor 4. Black/White wire connected to the positive side of the coil coming from the stock wiring loom. *See attached pictures* I should add that there is a wire coming out of the distributor about 3 inches which I believe was for the condenser which I don't need now that I have the pertronix.