dodgermike

Yeah that's pretty much what I figured, Pat. I'll have to look into some kind of blind hole fasteners.

Hi all, my questions are: what type of hardware is used on the lower rear of the fender where it wraps under the body?...There don't seem to be any weldnuts in the holes that are down there, well at least on my car. Was there some kind of "special" hardware used down there? Should there be weldnuts inside the body? The area is inaccessible to get a nut on a bolt down there. Thanks for your help!...Mike

Hey Iron, it looks like I have a BRE sway bar kit...any idea if I can get repalcement bushes and associated hardware still?...or am I going to have to improvise?

Thanks everyone for the pictures and the help...when I bought the car it came with the sway bar,,,I'msure it's aftermarket, but who manufactured it I don't have a clue....the first pictures though from ironhelix, are how the swaybar I have mounts...thanks again!

Removed my rear sway bar a few years ago, and now I don't remember how it goes back on...does anyone have a picture of thier rear sway bar set-up?

Thanks all...I chiseled that bushing out, got another one and fitted it in,and had to knock it in....everything is as it should be in my 240z world now, installed the tranny, and now have to connect driveline and exhaust, and it will be ready to go to my neighbor next door for the completion of body work and paint, and then I get to reassemble doors, hood, hatch and fenders, starting to look like I might have my Z on the road in the next couple months,,,I've owned it for 17 years now, and have never driven it leagally on the road, married a great lady that didn't mind having it the garage for all these years....

yeah using the "flywheel" term was my bad,,,,I know the pilot bushing is inserted into the crankshaft...

was it too big length wise?

was it too big length wise?...

thanks I appreciate the help,,,I knew I could count on the club!

Should a new pilot bushing fit completely inside the fly wheel? I just installed one and it went in about 7/8ths of the way,,,any help is appreciated...thanks

OK, so checked a few things out, and found that the fuel pump was indeed bad from sitting for a period of time without gas going through it. Installed a new one and immediately sucked fuel to the filter. Thought my problems were solved, still wouldn't fire with the gas. Checked both fuel lines coming off the fuel rail to the carb. bowl inlet and had fuel there, but I have no fuel actually inside the bowls, I removed the drain plugs on the float bowl and had no gas in there. Any suggestions?

Hi all, I have a '72 Z and have been cleaning it up on a home garage resto. Body parts are being painted, rear half of the car is having body work finished up. The running gear is in tact, engine, tranny, and rear end. I added headers and exhaust, and removed smog stuff from the intake. It has been awhile since I last had the car running, and when I went to fire the car up, I used a bit of starting fluid to hear it fire. It fires up just fine with the short squirt of starting fluid, but it doesn't seem to be pulling fuel from the tank. I manually sucked fuel up to the filter, so I know there is fuel there. Before I started the resto, the car started up fine and ran like a champ. My question is, since it's been sitting awhile, is there a possibility that the fuel pump has given up the ghost? Loosing prime perhaps? Or maybe when I removed the smog stuff there is something that I deleted that I nneeded? If anyone out there can give me some advice on what to do next I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance! Mike

Hey there everyone, Well with all the help I've gotten through this forum, I'm sure this question won't pose much of a challenge, and forgive me for not taking a pic of the wiring connections when I removed it, but...I need help on reconnecting the harness and battery to the solenoid of the starter. does anyone have a pic of the proper set-up? If not, can you tell me how the wires connect to the starter?...thanks in advance for the help. dodger

Thanks Arne and Adam, I'm going to go ahead and leave that off the engine since it's not necessary. Have either one of you heard of anyone running ducting from the air cleaner to the front of the car for cooler, cleaner air intake?...If so let me know. Also, Arne, can I go ahead and just plug the connections on the back of the air cleaner that formerly had the valve cover breather and smog pump lines going to them? What should I plug them with, rubber stoppers or something like that?

OK, so here's another question about my header install. On the original manifold there was a heat collector that funnled hot air to the air cleaner via a flexible hose. I'm going to keep the original air cleaner assembly, but the header does not have the mounts for that heat collector. So do I need that collector anymore, and, wasn't that heat used for the choke system somehow?...anyway you've given me lot's of help with the smog devices, now I can use a little more help. Thanks

Thanks Arne, This is exactly the reason I put the question up in the forum. So let me get this straight, if I go with either the longflow, or k/n airfilters I should also install a pair of venturi's with them?...Do you know if there is room inside those air cleaners?

Ok, so now I've gone to the aftermarket air cleaners after removing the smog stuff I don't need anymore because of the header install. So what vacuum lines do I need, some stock lines went to the air cleaner assembly, do I just plug those now? Any help is appreciated!

Yeah ok....like I said I didn't know if there was another way to go, so I'll go ahead and keep the shield. And in the mean time, I'm going to look into fabbing some other kind of shield for those bowls, that heat shield is ugly. I have noticed, in various pictures the use of heat wrap in the engine bay. i've seen some used on the fuel rails as well. And yeah I would be interested in the Eureka Datsun Run, keep me posted Bruce, thanks, thank you too, Arne

O.K., now I have a question regarding the heat shield. I know that the throttle return springs need to hook up to something, but do I have to re-use the heatshield for this purpose or can I fabricate a bracket using the heatshield as a template? Again, thanks for all the help out there for previous questions.

Wow, thanks alot for all the help!...This is forum is a great tool.

I'm glad to Zee that your garage looks alot like mine!...thanks for the help, and the picture.

So are all the top intake bolts, bolts?

Hey there everyone. I have a '72 240z. When I removed my carbs and exhaust manifold, some of the studs came out of the block. What I didn't pay attention to was which studs came out of what hole, and which holes took the bolts. Some studs remained in the block. I also notice that some studs are shorter then the others and so I need to know where they go. Hope someone can point me in the right direction, or tell me the bolt and stud configuration. Thanks for the help.

I also had a similar situation with one stud broken off in the head and another bolt broke off with about half an inch sticking out of the head. I'm in the process of restoring this car, and am installing a header, and in the process I went ahead and removed the carbs and intake in one piece so that I have easy access to the face of the head. After cleaning the bolt that was protruding from the head, I then proceeded to weld a half inch nut onto the end of the stud, and then used a battery powered impact gun to back the bolt out of the head. For the stud that was broken off in the head, using a mig welder, again I cleaned the face of the stud as best I could, and then built up a beed until I had enough beed outside the head that I could again weld a nut to. Using the impact gun, I again backed out the broken stud. The heat from welding aids in the loosening of rust and corrosion. I was surprised actually to find how easy these studs came out. Hopefully you have the use of, or a friend who has, a mig welder that you can use to do this. It doesn't cost nearly as much as desintegrating a broken stud. If you don't have access to a welder, you can remove the head and bring it to a welding shop that would be able to do this. I'm sure it still would not cost as much as desintegrating. Good Luck, Mike