e-tek

Hi Dan - I hear ya! I've been oggling the nice job you did on yours! I can't wait to one day be in the same postion! You did a great job for sure. But, as you said, I built a couple cars for other people, y'know, to pay the bills....which put my projects ona bit of a hold. I did however get some work done on the suspension and had the tank sandblasted so I could do some repairs to it and apply some POR15.... Even when I'm only working on my own stuff, I end up splitting my time between several projects at any one time! Aside from the 240Z, I have also been updating my 67 Galaxie, my 46 Mercury truck (outside) and begining the build on my 1927 rod:

Thanks Wheeel. Unfortunately, our Z has been sleeping under a large cover for the past year. It's not that I haven't been busy, but not on the Z. In the interim, I've restored and modded a 40 Ford showcar and am just finsihing up a kick-arse show-quality 68 Camaro. If interested, you can see all the work done on my blog at www.E-tekRestorations.blogspot.ca One things for sure: with it's new paint, boxes of new parts and all the running gear restored, when I get back to finishing the Z it'll be an absolute pleasure to work on. I can't wait....but will have to.

Goings on at the E-tek Rodshop With the 40 Ford gone, I hope to have more time to get something done on the Z... I've posted this photo before, but now the story of why it's still sitting here - ! The mounting points are currently occupied by the rotisserie bars - so I have to jack/lift/hold the front end to remove the rotisserie then attach the suspension! Oh brother.

Thanks Bart. Pretty slow site though - eh?! I know we gotta post and support it though!

wikkit!

Interior looks awesome Dan. Any updates? I posted some of my rear susp. teardown. Looking forward to getting the 40 Ford outta my shop so I can concentrate on it!

I have a Reznor forced air natural gas up in the corner. I keeps the shop 5C all the time, then I turn it up to 12C when I'm in there - plenty warm for working and doesn't cost much to run. Now if I could just spend more time on my own cars.... The hatch and vinyl work looks AWESOME - so clean! Is that new vinyl, or the original stuff? I have new carpet but will try to re-use m vinyl. Are you going to keep those tires, or go with something with a newer edge?

DAILY USE?!?! Surely you jest! We have 6 cars and 4 only see summer use. The Z will get a rip a couple times a week at most. As for the painted bits holding up, I really enjoy the process of restoration and treat them like full-sized models. Not too concerned if the paint wears once done - I'll just touch it up again!

As I am getting closer to bolting some items up to the car, I wanted to reverse the overspray on the undersides, so another coat of Rust Bullet was in order: then i pulled in all rear end suspension parts out of the storage shed and brought them into the shop. I tell ya - metal at minus 30C goes through the gloves - FAST! :ogre:

No, it's a gold shade I found that is close, but actually covers! Eastwood's Cad system is 3 paints plus a clear. I used it on a brake booster for a 74 Challenger and it turned out great, but it's picky work that take a while - and maybe a couple tries - to get right. If you're on your way through by all means, look me up, there's always lots going on in m shop. My home phone is 306.665.1908

Thanks! I CAN ONLY HOPE....and keep plugging away!

Details, details.... Hoping to get the frond end bolted up tomorrow, then I can start detailing the rear end.

Got the brakes and spindles completely rebuilt, just working on the last bits before being able to bolt it all up to the car:

LOViNG it!! The mat looks PHENoMiNAL. Great find. Princess Auto rocks and I just happen to have a trip on the radar for tomorrow (OK, I'm there several times a week...!) Did you have some stuff Cad plated - or did you paint it? Are you rebuilding everything as you go like I am? I''ll be trying to catch up next week!

I've been REALLY busy in the shop, but haven't worked on the 240 after painting it. Took some time off my "real" job and finished the 40Ford, plus took a big bite out of the 68 Camaro. Just checking in on yours!

Finished off the brake rebuilds today, but I forgot to order the ball joints with my Black Dragon order, so I'm waiting on those from NAPA.... (I hate NAPA).... Time for a second application of Eastwood's Caliper Paint!

Never! Front Suspension - complete stock rebuild - plus Urethane bushings:

Too much?

Fixed it for you: Woo-hoo!!!!!!!!! Love the gas cap too - where did he get that?

You need to be on GarageJournal.com asking these questions! I've been on it for years and there are a TON of good guys, experts in every section and lotsa ideas. Check out my thread there: E-tek's Projects Best of luck with the shop!

I put on 3 or4 coats of clear. I haven't polished it yet - maybe I will at least do a piece this week to see and show how it turns out.

If, by Epoxy Primer you mean a 2-k (2-part, catalyzed) high-build primer for block sanding, that's what I used - and always use. I block it all out with 120 then 180, then re-spray it to sand it with 320 then 600 wet. Finally, I sprayed a 2-k sealer just before spraying the paint. The big (and really only) difference between the PPG-type of paints of course is that the are catalyzed, meaning after you spray the base you mix and spray a catalyzed clear (not necess. the same brand) which has isocaynates (the DC product doesn't) but will be harder and shinier right away, while the DC paint will need to harden over time and has to be polished to a shine. Polishing the hardened clear is not really for shine, but to remove orange peel, dirt, runs or other imperfections. They are very different products. The Dupli-color product is easier to spray in a DIY setting, with no mixing or reducing required and no isocyanates to worry about, but, you have to wait for it to harden (days to weeks), then you need to polish it to a shine. Hardened/2-part paints were created for production settings: dangerous, but fast to harden and shiny right away. If sprayed under perfect conditions (heated booth by an experienced painter), it may not have to be polished at all and can be ready to re-assemble and deliver in hours. Lastly, repairing the Dupli-color product is easy in a DIY setting too. You just sand it smooth, then blow on enough base to cover, then a few coats of clear. You'll then be able to polish it and it'll blend in, whereas with catalyzed clear generally has to be painted in full panels (it can be blended out in small areas, with specific solvents that will 'melt' it into the old clear). Hope that helps!?

You bet! It was done with Dupli-Color's "new" Paint Shop paint system, which is a DIY color system you spray right from the can - no mixing, reducer or hardener required. I used about 4 (quart) cans of their Deep Blue Metallic and 4 cans of clear, which are about $30.00 a can, so the total for the paint was about $250. Compare that to about $1000 for 2-part paint from a local supplier. I sprayed it from a $120 HVLP paint gun in my own shop, after draping the surroundings with plastic and watering down the floor. (Of course even doing so, the floor is now blue!) The paint went on easily, just make sure you have a cross-flow (fans sucking air through and out) and a GOOD "Organic Vapour/OV' rated mask. I used a P100 rated mask, which is not quite the same and got pretty high near the end.... After a week or more you will need to buff it all out with a power buffer, which can be just as much (or more) work as the paint process to make it shine. That'll be down the road for me though, as I have a couple other project to get done ahead of it! Hope that helps - if you have any specific questions, fire away!