myfairlady

ops wrong picture

oh really?man I thought I was going nuts,.. Anyways the carbs are rebuilt and I guess I will order the Ztherapy video..here is a picture of my engine

Sorry guys I spent hours looking for this problem on the search and forums but cant find it.. Im trying to get my carbs set with the unisyn but there is one problem.. The front carb doesnt read unless I have mypalm on it and the rear reads fine.. So does anyone knwo whats going on here? I thought it was the tool but its not. I put my palm and it sucks in but the rear sucks in like it wants to eat my hand.. Any input whats going? Thanks for the help guys

Thanks for the info. if im going to run my MSD then I'll just leave the e12-80 off. From what people tell me and from wire diagrams it is true that you dont need the e12-80 module. Just bypass it take it off and run direct. I been running it like that for a year now and nothing wrong has happened. Question though. I been reading that your supposed to use the 8920 tach adapter but I see taht your using the 8910.. Hows it working for you? Its good to know that the info you gave me is some really good advice and I really appreciate it

I just wanna go back to stock as possible, but the way seems like everything is going. I might as well just buy a tach adapter instead of giving myself a headache

i understand that but for some reason my 280zx coil just doesnt work with the e12-80 ignition... I used 2 different kinds mine and my friends who I just took off the of his car that work and im still not getting a spark. I put back his e12-80 and it works fine.. but when I put back the msd 6a it works fine.. I really dont know wahts going on

so i tried every wire examples i got and its stillnot working. I tried 2 different e12-80 chips and still nothing. Something is not right and I badly need help please. I also have 2 black and white wires and both have current going thru. Any suggestions? I put back the MSD and everything works fine just no tach. If anyone has an idea that would be great. I check the links for the set up but its just not working

Ok im going back to taking out the MSD and going back to e12-80 but I forgot how and here is the thing. I have 2 black and white wires and need to know which one to to use and which one hooks up? I tried finding the solution but with no luck I can't find it.. I have a 73 W/ 280zx distributor and yes the tack work before with that set up.. Thanks alot guys for all your help

Oh one more thing. My 73 has a electric fuel pump in the rear but is not working. DO I need it once I go back to the stock mechanical one? I hear of vapor locking and such but Do I really need it cause I live in Las Vegas and it is pretty hot out here

Yes I failed to mention there is a block off plate and its a P90 head. I checked to see if the lob is there but no there is'nt. Thanks for the part number I will definately check out my nissan dealer to see if they can order it for me. By the way............ Is it hard to put on. Sorry guys for being dumb on this but its better to ask then not ask at all right?

Ok I have a 73 240z with a l28 engine. As I recall the L28 dont have the fuel pump lob and I like to install the mechanical fuel pump. Is there a site I can go to to find that lob or is it even possible to have it? Also is it easy to put on... I like the mechanical fuel pump and the way its mounted thats why I like to put it on. Please please please help

will do dave and thanks.. I'll let you know as soon as I can

speaking of hot places where the fuses are and dim lights. Last night my interior lights side makers and parking lights dont turn on for some reason but my head lights, turning signals and brake lights work fine.. I checked the fuse box and there seems to be melted plastic around the fuse for the parking lights. Not to sound stupid but I am at this moment, could this be the reason as well as my combo switch for the lights????? Its always one thing after another and i realize it cause how old the car is. Fastwoman Yes the starter is new and also the battery. Your the only one that told me not to change out the alternator adn up graded and thats cool. The more info I can get the more knowledge I I gain so every little bit helps alot. I will do what you say just to eliminate alll sugestions in order to find whats going on. Thanks

Good question..... I dont know...

thanks for the good advice. I ahve a new batery and it still does that. Also my headlights were upgraded to the H4 versions . Here in Vegas its too hot so I had not check the wires for corrosion yet. As soon as I can I will check everything clean what I can and see if I still need to go with the 60 distributor and maybe change out my voltage regulator

wow for a guy who has not had his coffee yet , you still gave alot of info.. It is an on going issue. yesterday I did replace the battery and it still does it.. I was thinking it could be the voltage regualtor but I need someones opinion here. Ok I will check the wires and take off the alternator to see whats going on. Thanks alot. The info is really helpful and I will check in and let you know whats going on

Ok well I dont know where to really put this in the title but hopefully someone can help me... Everytime I accelerate the needle for volts goes higher and then goes back just above middle when I let to of the gas pedal.. WHen I turn on the signal lights the volt meter flickers with the the turning signals and when at night the head lights and the gauge lights get brighter when I accelerate. Does anyone kow what I need to do to fix this problem?

OK I figured it out. It doesnt gargle anymore. I took out the egr stuff and plugged up the three holes on the balance tube. Wow its very responsive and its more controlable in throttle. Im really glad I went to stock.. second gear in low rpm is great. Doesnt feel like its dying. It's a very controllable and enjoyable ride now.

Oh and another question... How much oil do I put in the SU carbs???

Ok guys I got the carbs installed. the exhaust feels if you put your hand near the pipe . Its pushing hard and it gargles. Im trying to tune them but does anyone have any advice what I should do???

Speaking of fuel pump. I notice I got one in the rear. Since im going back to SU set up do I need the rear electric fuel pump???

Well said... Ill keep you guys up to date when I put them on

Thanks for the info. My engine is just a mild cam and pretty much thats it. Since im not going to be doing any autox or circut racing anymore I dont need to built up the carbs. Thats why I sold my tripple webers. I just want to enjoy the nostalgic feeling of my z now with better gas mileage. Yes the sound of tripple carbs is pretty impressive but I like the sound of SU's as well. Cool I have a 73 as well 240zgl

awesome man thanks alot.. Since I live in Las Vegas I need electical one in the real so that I dont have vapor lock.

I have one in my 73 in the rear as well. But what was the psi on those pumps cause mine is bad and want to buy a different one. Im still using mechanical in the front