beebeecivic

Bruce almighty! http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Datsun_model-280Z.html?PHPSESSID=7a3...

Thanks sblake !

So i did some more research via Google and found this "When you turn the key to start, the ballast is bypassed, and the coil gets a full 12V to put out a hotter spark for starting. Releasing the key inserts the resistor back into the circuit to preserve the life of the points. Why not design the ignition to use 12V all the time? Well, nowadays they do but before 1975 or so that's the way points ignitions were designed. This means if you buy a high performance coil and simply install it, the ballast resistor may limit the new coil's power output. On a points distributor you can connect a wire across the ballast, it will route a full 12-14v to the coil and pick up some voltage, but it can shorten the life of the points." Im not sure if the 78 280z has a ballast resistor or not but I am going to do more research link: http://www.datsunzgarage.com/engine/

Which wire exaclty is the 12v feed? I am going to upgrade the fusible link before I attempt on doing this.. I cant afford anymore fusible links either one of these http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Gauge-Fused-Distribution-Block/dp/B001IQIW7I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246072869&sr=1-9 or http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1333014/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

The fuse that was in place of a 20amp was replaced by a 30 amp by the previous owner. So I changed it back to the correct amp. The one link that keeps blowing is the EFI/ IGN relay And the bad coil ballast and ignition relay is replaced with a MSD blaster 2 coil and a OEM replacement Ign Relay. The relay comes with a external ground wire. Its short about 3 inches so i had to attach it to the closest possible screw (which is the bracket screw that holds it up)

quick question of for the vinegar bath.. do i need to remove the wires also? or can i jus put those intact

O man.. so i replaced it with the correct fuse and it still blew! this time it blew as soon as i stopped "starting" it . It didnt blow when i was trying to start it but rather after.

I dont have a 20a on hand but i think imma leave that one blank and see if it is gonna blow the link ; i am almost out of links so i am gonna have to gamble this one

Yesterday I went and pulled all the fuses out and i found a 30 amp fuse in a 10 slot. I am going to replace it with the correct value and hope it will turn over

Sorry, I meant that there was a 30amp in place of a 20amp! i think this is causing the problem. as soon as i check a few more connections and test a few more things i am going to fire it

I went to check the fuses everything looked fine except one.. it was a 30amp.. could this 30amp be messing me up since the beginning? I am going to buy a 20amp fuse later and gamble with my fusible link ::cross fingers:: and hope it wont blow

thanks 70 cam guy! i have a multimeter ; i will try that method out tomorrow

So i was tracing wires yesterday and i it lead to the fusebox. My question is do Fusebox pop fusible links?I have looked at all the wires that are connected to that fusible link and also looked at all wires and connections. I have read the schematics and that particular link leads to the fusebox.

Sweet thanks again tomohawk!

So its basically a contunity tester with alligator clamps on them? thanks again!

Thanks Chris!

To be honest i have no clue if its the same but when i looked at the back of both the switches they are the same such as B, IG, A, etc , etc. I Have both books and schematics to look at. I jus want someone to help me confirm this but the Z has one less wire (4 wires) on the switch compared to the ZX (5 wires) And mike I am going to try that on tomorrow So i just attach wires to a light bulb or just throw the bulb on top of the fusible link holder? thanks again!

Sweet thanks for the replies! Alright heres the Story of my Z Before it was given to me the car had a broken Ignition Module, bad coil ballast and a half broken igntion relay (ground was ripped off the casing). The previous owners son who was a drug addict tried ripping parts of the car due to the expense of his drugs. So what he tried doing instead of ripping piece by piece he tried stealing the car. Upon attempting to steal the car he cut the pig tails off of the ignition switch and tried hot wiring; but he failed! so what i did was this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34942 thanks again! btw 626 area in LA County dont wanna give away my addy

Im not sure if its possible to ask this but if it is against rules please delete! I was wondering if anyone in the LA county can help me out with my car? I am having electrical problems and I want someone who has more knowledge to give me a helping hand again if this is against rules please delete! have a good day

Do you mean the grounds are shorting? are there any specific grounds i should be looking for? And Stere is that the Steering column area comboswitch?)

I have 1978 280z all stock. When i bought the car the po's song cut the wires off the ign switch. I got one from a ZX and wired it all up (not sure if its right because i am still a noob to schematics) So everything is all wired up, As soon as i turn the key to the "on" position the fusible link blows. What can be the cause of this? I have tried looking at grounds and all but i cant seem to find it any input would be appreciated

nice car you own a fiesta! how nice

that would be nice i f i had two Z's

sweet thanks sblake for that diagram

What are the chances (if any) that they are likely to go out? I am asking because when i try testing my EFI system wit the ECU plug checking for the continuity for my injectors i come back with none. Unless i am doing it wrong.