DOHCD15

i had a 78 stock engine and tranny combo and then removed the engine for an f54 flat top with a fidanza flywheel, i chose to reuse the previously good clutch and pp with some issues lining up the old pp to the flywheel. upon start up there is a slight squealing noise coming from the bellhousing and when i depress the pedal the noise is gone. once warmed up the noise is constant with pedal depressed or not and have noticed rougher feel when engaging gears with reverse being a complete nightmare. i am leaning to the idea of the pressure plate being the culprit as it is the 225mm and i have recently been told the flywheel requires a 240mm. would that cause the squealing?

i just installed an autometer tach in a 1971 240z, i am using the factory tach harness and i now use the green and white stripped wire as my tach signal. if i try to start the car with the green wire connected to the negative side of my coil my car cranks and cranks with no fire and the moment i remove it the car fires right up, i then attach the green wire back to the negative side of the coil and the tach works again. why wont the tach allow me to start the car but runs just fine when attached after the vehicle is on

thanks, my tach now works

i am replacing my tach with a spiffy autometer pro comp, i have already drilled in the face to install the led turn signal lights. as a last checkup of power with me and my handy dandy multimeter i realized that i didn't read any more than 100mv of power from the lamps even with the turn signal on and clicking away. is there some trick to this because my multimeter should have at least seen 10-12 vdc? do the turn signal lamps have to be grounded together or somethin?

i have the mikuni 40phh (got em from a friend for cheap) and was worried about my l28 running out of breath in the upper rev range. does the size of the venturi move the power band upwards and if so where may i buy replacement 34mm venturi's instead of my puny 32's

the oil pressure switch is a known good switch since it has been working flawlessly since i purchased the car, i didn't disconnect any wires or plugs, i merely jiggled the wire while it was still connected. if i grounded the + wire to the starter should't i have just popped a fuse first.

once i disconnect the link for the white wire under the glove box i should put one test lead to ground and another test lead to the end of the connect going to the starter. then i am supposed to read an overload of resistance if the wire is good, correct? if i read a low level of resistance then it means that i am completing the circut between the wire and vehicle body( ground) therefore causing the excessive current draw? so in the short and simple question, am i supposed to read overload in every point of the circut when the key is not in the ignition for every section of wire tested after it leaves the starter? and is the ammeter a resistor and if so, for it to still be good i would need to read some resistance across it's terminals? when i test the at the fuse box i should disconect the red and white wire and then test it to ground otherwise i would read the resistance across the fusebox because it is grounded??

.1971 240Z. the keys were not in the ignition. i wiggled the wire to the oil pressure sensor and then the wire that goes directly from the starter to the wire harness melted. i then noticed smoke coming from the back of the ammeter. once the wire to the harness melted i removed the battery, attached a jumper wire and then reattached the battery, imediatly that wire began to smoke. help, i am not knowledgeable at electronics, how may i find a ground. i do know how to use a multimeter and where the cable wire disconnects between the starter and ammeter. am very willing to learn