supraman

That's how it's already wired.

yes, the oem ignition is still there just a turn dial now instead of key's, later i'm going push button but need to takle one bug at a time. The pump is on it's very own switch, from the battery, to the switch, to the pump. A hot wire i guess. i did use the factory black wire as my pump ground assuming that's what it was, to ground the pump. the switch has it's own ground.

No, but i did leave a part out. Thank's for the correction. I did use the green wire but just cut it and connected my red power wire to it, under the passenger seat. So just one power line going to it. I ditched the ecu, so i had to hard wire it to a switch. Swaped to SU's.

Haaha thank's again, got it today, life saver! I will enjoy it as much as i can.

How would i find out? How can I test for this? Is there a quick fix for it or a thread on it that I might could learn some info from? Thank's for your time...

Thank's Bigoak, I'll give it a shot, that input help's.

Arne, Your the man! Alway's helping me out, thank's allot. She ran / stumbled for around 5-10 second's then died out.

I put in an inline, low pressure fuel pump, and hot wired it to a switch. The wiring: From battery to an inline fuse(30amp) to switch. From acc on switch to the fuel pump. From ground on switch to Firewall to ground it. When i wired the fuel pump i just put it back where the OEM pump went and wired the power wire on the pump to the green power wire at the pump coming from under the passenger seat area. Then wired the ground on the pump to the black wire that ran with the green power wire, assuming it was a ground. It work's great, come's on when I hit the switch, shut's off when I turn it off. But when I had it running and turned the pump and the ignition off, it kept running, stumbled a hair, then died. What is causing this car to keep running if the ignition is off and the pump is off? Is it left over carb gas burning off ? Or an ignition problem?

This is my problem, thank's for the help everyone. I have trash in the line's-carb's and the old gas mixed with the new did indeed gum thing's up a bit. Have a helpfull hand on getting that SU rebuild dvd, and I'm going to clean the tank, line's, and do a quick rebuild on the carb's for good measure. Then tune. This should fix my problem I think. I also noticed my fuel pressure gauge gave out too. Probably got gumed up too, it was a cheap POS anyway, so is the regulator, there the great old Mr. Gasket one's. Should of called there brand Mr. Crap-it. Going to replace those too. Everything I've ever saw from them is garbage I think, not accurate, and cheap made. This stuff came with the car. So the owner before me must have had worst skill's than me, had to replace or reroute a bunch of stuff, wire's, line's, etc. Getting the bug's worked out now though, next stop is the clutch system.:stupid:

280-master, Thank's for the link's. That help's, just trying to make sure I get the right stuff the first time! I plan on doing a ''how to'' for the fact's section for this while I'm doing it so other's don't have to peice info together on here.

Thank's everyone, my problem was bad gas that varnished the inside and garbaged the carb's. Learned from this mistake. I'm goung to clean the tank out and rebuild the carb's using the SU dvd kindly being passed to me by a fellow Z member here at Classic Z. Thank's again Citjet. Then one day i'm sure i'll return the favor for someone else here, I figure by the time i get everything fixed and all the bug's worked out, I'll have some good knowledge of the classic Z from the inside out. I do everything myself so I learn from it, that way, if something goes wrong, I can find the problem fast and fix it even faster. Thank's everyone for the help. And Bruce, you will be hearing from me soon!

10-4 good buddy! We get mail but Carl lost a wheel and the horses still need to be feed! Thank's man that's awesome and would really help me out a lot. I'll pm my address, i'm going to need it, i'm going to rebuild from the new part's that are there and pick up a few that i need so i can have this baby ready for that panhandle meet for sure. Thank's again! I even got a great spot for that meet one day in the future, i nice island around here, water is great and the hotel parking lot is huge.

great info, thank's.

Thank's for the input guy's, that help's. So what year 240sx caliper am i looking for?

Hey all, I've been on the forum's here for a little bit of time compared to some. Figured i would actually introduce myself finally. ''Supraman" my handle is going to have to change, I have a Supra that pushes about 400hp to the wheel's, but my love for Z car's has run deep for along time. It started with hotwheel's and matchbox at first, i had a ton of Z's to jam when i was a kid. Then when i grew up a little i bought my first Z. A jet black 86' 300zx n/a, it was bad arse for lack of term's hahaa. I still have it, but blew the trans, looking to do a 5 speed swap from the crappy automatic. Then a good friend left a supra turbo for me, rip owen. So it was all nasty and mean, but not really a daily driver ya know.... But a weekend destroyer! Eventually it gave way to me pounding the crap out of it . So i purchased my dream car....finally at 27 years old ,i had what i wanted, a first gen Z. An eBay auction and 610$ later...it is mine! A 77' 280Z. Some rear quarter panel damage but fixable, rebuilt motor and a garbage set of weber dgv carb's that had no linkage and need serious over-hauling. So i pop the rear and find the EFI back there and traded it out for chromed out SU's on bling manifold's. Making good progress and got it running too. Sound's awesome. Big thank's to member's here for helping me out with my prodject, i'm going in head first and blind, but i have some decent machanic skill's and lot's of tool's. Thank's again to the one's who have helped me this far. Glad to be here finally.

I have a set of 3 bolt round top's also, i could rebuild them too i guess. Are they any better than the 4 bolt when using them on a 280Z?

I searched the forum looking for some answer's on a 240sx rear brake conversion and find bit's of info here and there , but mostly 280zx stuff and conversion's on 240Z's. I have found a huge selection of 240sx cars at the junkyard and want to snag some brake's off of it. What year 240sx am I looking for to do my 77' rear conversion? I need a 280zx master right? And just the maxima brackets? Do i then use the 240sx rotor's or the 280zx one's. I read that the drilled and slotted rotor's are a bad idea because of cracking but are they ok for off track use? I'm not really adding a bunch of hp to my Z.

There was only a gallon or 2 in the tank so i just added some 93 to the tank, about 2 1/2 gallons and ran it. probably my own bone head mistake. I was in a hurry to listen to it run after all the work I've put into it so far, probably mistake number 2.

Dave, Thank's for the help and the pic's I have this thing beat now. I'm still working on it but progress is good and I feel like I actually know what i'm doing now. I'm also keeping my manual window's and slapping on chrome crank's. I think i figured out the best way to mount the solenoid too. I'm going to mount them towards the bottom of the door and have them pull the same latch inside the door, that the interior handle pull's. The bar and the cable will be running close to each other , but the same direction , with little to snag on when you pull the interior handle. I'll figure it out. I'll have to post something up with my own pic's and how to.

Bruce, Thank's for the tip, if I fail at getting these carb's to run properly I will just rebuild them for learning experience alone. I think your dvd will be on my list of tool's soon. The double sealed roller bearing's are an aftermarket tweak I take it? If so, could I order them and install myself without extreme trouble?

Thank you for your time, this seem's to be a good guidline to cleaning these SU's out. I'll give it a try and see how well they run. I'm sure it has fuel issue's cause they ran perfect the first day then I tried them a few day's later and have been fighting them since. I noticed one of my carb's has no bolt on the float bowl. they are both identical other than the float bowl's. They are both 4 bolt round top's and the id numbers have been polished off so i can't really id the carb's other than 4 bolt round top SU's from a 240Z. They seem to work very well with each other, until now. When I rev they do seem to run as well but have to give the car gas to keep above idle so they won't die out. Cleaning fuel line's today and filter's then trying again. I'll have to keep everyone updated.

I'll get on it today for sure, i'll check the rear filter at the tank and see what's up. The tank was boiled and sealed 2-3 years ago according to the guy I bought it from a few month's ago. But it has been sitting for 8 month's though. I tapped on them and got the flow back in the carb's, now it will rev but not idle. So i'm making progress. Thank's

From what i understand, the carb's have been rebuilt and in use on a 240Z with little to no problem. The guy i got them off of did a good job of cleaning everything and reuilding them. He also hand polished everything, even the manifold's so i imagine he put a great deal of time and money into them. So what's the best idea here, re-seat the needles and clean everything out with cleaner, or just rebuild these carb's over again? I wonder how much Z therapy would charge me to fix them up if there already full of new part's?

Hey Z member's, I'm having SU issue's and I'm going nut's trying to figure it out. My 280Z has rebuilt SU 4 bolt round top's. Last weekend I replaced some fuel line's, installed a low pressure electric fuel pump and my 280 fired right up! This weekend it wouldn't start. The first thing I noticed was no fuel coming through the return line after the carb's. So i banged on the side of my SU's with a small hammer (lightly) and it seem to free up whatever was blocking it or stuck. Fuel slightly started to leak out the front of the carb's. But this meant to me that there was to much fuel pressure. The car start's up but die's at idle, it does fire well when gas pedal is applied and they rev good. Is this a float problem? stuck jet? combo of problem's? exhaust sound's like it spitting a little too.

Would this be the cause of no gas in the return line also? I pulled the return line on the carb's and what do you know, no fuel coming out. I have fuel going in, i can see it in the crappy,glass, mr gasket fuel filter i bought.:stupid: Bought it before I found out how easy they break and leak. Going to replace that, of course but it does allow me to see the fuel going to carb's. So what's the best way to fix this? I'm still new to carb's, but learning. I'll also do some searching on here for anything on my problem too. Thank's guy's i've got the problem found , now I just need to fix it.