supraman

Thanks guy's for helping out, i'm so frustrated, but not giving up. It did fire and tried to idle, backfired through the carbs. On start up it stumbles and sounds like it's trying to start. I'm using a set of SU round tops, rebuilt and polished. They worked great the day before the freeze plug went pop- replaced it, now problem's. so....I didn't throw off any timing by doing so? It did idle once and sounded smooth, then died out on me. I think it's getting gas, The new fuel pump sounds off pretty good, it's a low pressure electric one pushing 5.5-9 psi and there is fuel getting in the fuel filter, which sit's right after the carb's. I saw a small amount of gas come out of the carbs, dripped out the front, then i adjusted the pressure to about 3-4 psi with a regulator and pressure gauge. Could gas sitting in the carbs over night do something to them? I'm 100% shure the plug wire's are right, i'll go and swap them and try to fire it up again, but i put the wire's where i couldn't forget the plug they went to. Maybe it's a carb issue then? Not a timing issue? The distributor is the performance (Pertronix Ignitor)version sold by black dragon and motorsport. It seemed to be working perfectly. I again want to say thank's in advance for helping me out.(Cali260Z) Big thank's to Arne for sure, you've helped me out before here at Classic Z and that's how I got it to run in the first place!

Hi Classic Z member's, Well, after all the hard work and money i've put into my 77 280Z, I think i just really screwed up bad- I finally got my l28 fired up with my new carbs and fuel pump,thanks to other member's here. I finished it this weekend and it ran so good it brought a tear to my eye. I played with the carb's and everything was really smooth sailing all day. Then i shut the motor down for the night, covered the car, and went inside. The next morning I got up to work on my Z again. That is when I noticed a freeze plug laying next to the motor mount. It must of came out over night after the motor cooled, it didn't go far, looked like it just fell out freely. So I replaced the plug, but when doing so i removed two spark plug wire's to gain clearence for my hammer. Well, after i finished with the freeze plug, I made a bone head error and tried to fire the car up again without connecting the two spark plug wire's.:stupid: Yes it was stupid, but I did get off a 10 hour shift this afternoon and then worked on my car before doing this.:sleepy: Now i can't get this baby to run, it turn's, fire's, has feul, tries to start, but stumbles and will not run- Did I just mess up my ignition timing or did I royaly screw up? How do i fix this? Where do i start? I was so close to being done too. Any help would be awesome. Thank's

Gary, Your right my 77 280Z is already wired up for the electric fuel pump, but there is a problem. The stock fuel pump is not sounding off when I turn power to the car and not sending gas to my carbs. It's also high pressure. A regulator was installed with a seperate gauge to see the psi after it in the line. The only thing the previous owner did right was the regulator! So I have a new electric low pressure pump instead. (5-9 psi) Now, hooking this to the existing fuel lines, I think I can figure out. The Fuel pump has been moved in a easy access area, about 4'' below where the wiring goes up into the body from the pump, with custom mounting plate. When I bought this car it was already going through the EFI to carb swap(Weber DGV's) and I trashed the ECU. (Is that my problem? Did I need the ECU?) The electrical was re-done by the first owner also, alternator swap was done, and fog lights were done, and looks like coil ,etc. was redone. So I didn't see much else the ECU was doing me? What else was left on the ECU after a swap from EFI anyway's? The guy I bought it from told me I didn't need it any more. So I traded the left overs for a set of chrome, rebuilt SU's(4 bolt round top)! The motor fire's good, turn's great, but no fuel:cry: After all the work of getting those carb's in and learning all that! I had a buddy spray a few shot's of starter fluid in the carb's , the 280 fired right up so I know i'm just lacking fuel. Plus no fuel in the line's either. So how much did the setup you put together end up costing you?(- fuel pump) Do you remeber the size of the T?

I'm not sure either just have that one, so I figured some info is better than none. The power and ground wire's are probably the same but with different speaker wiring.

Ok, I've done a bunch of searching with no results on exactly what i'm trying to do. I want to run my new fuel pump off the battery and to an interoir switch. I have plenty of 10 gauge and 12 gauge wire, a few 30 amp inline fuse boxes, 30 amp fuses, a 40 amp 4 peg relay, several led 30 amp switches, and 1 new low pressure fuel pump. Do I need anything else? I just need to know the order of the wiring. Do I just go from the battery, to the fuse, then relay, switch, then out to fuel pump? I figure, if it's on a switch, then I could cut it from power at any time in the case of an emergency.

Any one out there with finished kit's or info to add. Maybe pic's we can see?

I have the wiring for the 77. It should be the same, mines a early 02/77. Radio as follows: 12v + constant current= red/black 12v + switched current= blue ground = n/a illumination= red/yellow dimmer= n/a front left= blue/white + front left= blue/yello - front right= brown + front right= brown/white - left rear= red + left rear= green - right rear= blue + right rear= pink - I hope this help's!

Great! No more confusion!:laugh: I got it now.:bulb: My kit has internal relay's built in for channel's 1 and 2 , so there are no relay's needed for the doors at all. Relay's are only used for channels 3-7 only, or for the emergency switch. You do have to power both harnesses off the same power wire, and ground the molex harness with it's ground wire(black wire on molex connector harness) not the little black wire coming directly out of the reciever either! That's the antenna! :stupid: The reciever has 5 spade connectors (channel's 1, 2 ,and 12VDC connection- the other two are dead) and a seperate molex connector with its own electrical harness. The spade connectors are wired using the positive output method.(channels 1& 2 with the 12VDC) Tap molex power wire into spade connector power wire, then run to battery. Ground from molex harness, and Wire up solenoid's to channels 1 and 2. done! No relay's needed. The molex connector runs off a negative output wiring to the battery, and the reverse polarity output wiring is for power windows, power doors, etc. into the reciever using channels 3-7! Then you add relay's, because relay's for channel's 3-7 are NOT built in to the reciever. The kit even comes with 6 feet of extra 10 gauge wire too. Just use the left over spade connection wires ( large 10 gauge wires, one is orange the other purple) They are used for absolutely nothing anyway so why not use good wire eh!? I hope this help's anyone else that started out as confused as I was! Big thank's to Dave for getting me started in the ball park!

Sick, just plain sick! I have similar ideas, just repainting the interoir panels black with silver metal flake and clearcoating. Custom door panels, nothing too off the wall just old skool techniques and probably going black and silver 2 tone. Blue led interior lighting. I have a good set of MSA lowering springs. MSA type 3 front bumper. MSA type 2 skirts and rear bumper. Already shaved the headlight panels into the fenders for a stream line look. Made a custom blue base coat that includes tons of blue pearl and silver flake for the body. Black pearl hood. new carpet. Re-doing seats. Alternator swap is done along with a set of chrome SU's on chrome manifolds. Just need to polish the cam cover to match it. Big Chrome breather filter, and billet fuel filters. Saw a sweet set of 16'' rims on ebay for the 280Z for 3-400$ shipped. The Ignitor ignition is on the list too. Sway bars and srtut bars, with new urethane kit for suspension a must. A sun-roof/moon-roof! Something you don't see to often in a classic Z but looks good, probably go with an RX-7 style moon-roof but made with tinted glass. Stereo will be a 3-4'' lcd, usb,sd,mp3 media machine from bose or sony, with the MSA rear speaker panel(2 bose 6x9'' 3 way), replace factory panel speakers with bose of the same size (3 way), and a set of tweeters in the door panels up front. And a sweet set of amps in the back, with blue led's on them and a gun- metal finish or silver base color. Nothing too loud and bass filled, but a nice system to rock out with, thats fairly loud and sounds awesome. I have some interoir skills for sure and can sew pretty good, learned on my own, keep a look out for future ''how to diy'' in the interior and body forum's on here. Have some pretty cool ideas, but I want to unleash them when there done, hoping people will get good results, but don't ''copy'' mine. Thanks again for the help it sent me in the right direction for sure!

I found the link! No wonder I was having trouble finding this, my kit is the newest SPAL USA kit out right now!:stupid: All shaved door handle folk's looking for wiring info look here! This link is for the SPAL kits but most kits without internal relays work the same from what I understand, and the link has printable color diagrams galore! Show's how to wire up the relay's, power door's, power lock's, etc. http://www.spal-usa.com/faq/faq_technical.html

Thanks again, that's very usefull info. I have a roll of 12 and 10 gauge wire that I'm going to use. The reciever operates the doors on seperate channels ex(1 driver-2 passenger) with a 4 button remote. The remote's have the different channels on them for popping one door at a time. The instructions I have say nothing of relays from the reciever, other than if you want to integrate your power windows or put in a electric exterior switch. I was actually planning on doing away with the swith and installing a manual popper for a fail safe. That will take care of the dead battery and lost remote problem all in one shot. So even with no power, I could get in. What about this!:bulb: A manual popper for the rear hatch! No wiring and could still shave off the OEM hatch button. That will save a relay, all that wiring, and a solenoid too. Cool, that kills a few birds with one stone and under the rear bumper would be the last place anyone would look for a manual popper. Sweet!

I would have to say that EFI is mainly for power, turbo's, etc. But my Z is 6 years older than I am so carb's just seemed like the thing to do. I figure, add some vintage, in a vintage car, rather than create a death trap of a car that has open diff in the rear. My Supra holds the road about 100% better and is lower to the ground. It's an MK3 87 turbo model with a butt ton of mods. All EFI! The original Z just looks better with carbs and if it runs good with them then why not!?

Thanks for responding, Thats a start. Plasic grommets, check! No less than 16 gauge wire, check! I have a top notch 40 amp relay, check! I assume that the rear hatch is a real PITA? I have no key for it and if i shut it, getting it open again by hand is already a PITA. Which way is the best way to wire this SPAL kit? Positive, negative, or reverse polarity? I'm a little confused on the difference between the 2 (+ and -). Does the polarity just change the pushing or pulling direction of the door solenoid? And if it does, then the reverse polarity wiring would go both directions correct? Just making an educated guess here. One more.... Do I use a relay for each door,the hatch, and for the main power to reciever for a total of 4 relays, or just 1, for the main power to the reciever?

I have just bought a SPAL shaved door handle kit and was wondering if anyone has tried one yet or has any wiring tips on a 77 280Z. The one I have is the 7 channel. I'm just wiring to the doors and the rear hatch.

Thank you very much for the advice. It's a shame, because thats the first filter I bought was the glass one. I'll get a few inline billet one's instead. Good looking out man! Thank's for the link too, I'll read up.

Thanks Arne, That helps alot, the only thing is my 280Z has 3 feul lines so i gues I can just eliminate 1 line, use one as a return, and the other as the main fuel sending line. Now I just need to figure out how to wire it up to its own switch. Thanks again,I was kinda winging it till now.

I'm trying to figure out how I should route the fuel lines from a new inline, low pressure fuel pump to a set of SU's. Keep in mind I'm about clueless when it involves classic imports or carbs for that matter. The oldest car I have is my 87' turbo Supra. I am no mechanic either but I am really trying to learn through research and asking questions. The questions- I just run the fuel lines from the tank, into an inline filter, to the pump, then to my su's right? I just have a custom set of daul polished SU's on my 77 280z that have been rebuilt and the lines have been modified on the SU's. The fuel lines look to be conected into a (two to one line) by a series of t-fittings and fuel hose. Do I just run one line from my fuel pump to this? I noticed there are two lines like that on the carbs also. One is smaller than the other but both are two into one setup. I'm so lost and retarded to carb's.:stupid: I figured out the linkage and have it smooth. I just run the wiring from the switch to a relay then to the inline fuse then where? Can someone please help me with some good links or advice please? I also want to run the new fuel pump on a switch and to the battery.

Hello Classic Z members, I just got a new fuel pump for my 02/1977 280Z and need some help on this. I swaped over to SU carbs from the EFI system recently and I bought an inline low pressure electric fuel pump. I am putting in a Push button ignition also and want the new fuel pump on it's own switch, and have the ignition just run the starter and acc power with an ignition switch and hidden starter button. How would I go about wiring this right way or is there an easy way to do this? I'm going to run the fuel lines over again also, so whats the best size fuel hose to use for this and how do I run them to my new SU's? I have an old service manual (with no wiring diagram) and have done the searching, it just seems like I can't find any clear answers so any help would be awesome.

someone please help me out! i just bought my second Z so far,... a 77 280- it came with weber dgv 5a carbs,manifolds, but..... no throttle linkage, or vacume lines hooked up- im trying to fire this old girl up and need some guidance on the vacume lines and the linkage- i bought a linkage, should be here next week but need some pics of others who have changed over from the efi system- and pics of the vacuum lines, where they go, etc. would greatly help-:stupid: please someone help me out here? thanks everyone-