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Hi All, I've decided to replace the 4 speed in my 73 with the 280ZX close ratio 5 speed, specifically the FS5W71B. Eiji at Datsunspirit.com will be rebuilding the trans and has asked if I prefer original Nissan parts or aftermarket. There are several kits available including this one for a FS5W71 from drivetrain.com Not sure what the "b" suffix means with respect to this kit. I would like the highest quality kit available, so if any of you have had experience with this please share your experiences. Peter

Two years ago I installed Dynamat virtually everywhere on my 73. However, since the original headliner is in perfect condition I didn't dare remove it. I'd really like to insulate the roof but wonder if any of you have done this. Did you re-install the original headliner or buy after market? Any problems encountered? Tips? Peter

Jacob M I suggest that you contact Eiji at datsunspirit.com. He can facilitate import/export and has access to Japanese market parts. Peter

I recently installed a Cusco bar that I bought from Amazon for just under $200. I was also concerned about fitment, but no problems at all. Looks great and actually makes a difference even in moderate driving.

Thanks Mike, PM sent. I realize that this is not an ideal location for tweeters, but I want to keep the interior as stock-looking as possible. Mounting the tweeters on top of the dash would probably yield better sound though.

Hi All, At the Rochester car show last summer I met someone from the Ontario Z Car Club who had tweeters mounted in the center of the eyeball vents. I'd like to do the same, but I can't find any tweeters that are small enough to fit the opening, which measures 1.13". I've called several manufacturers, but even those tweeters advertised as .5" are actually much larger because of the mounting cups. Since I know that there is at least one tweeter that will fit I'd appreciate your help in identifying the exact model. Thanks.

I also replaced all the bushings, bearings, u-joints, etc. in my '73 with OEM rubber, including the strut mounts. I'm the original owner and the car is as smooth as when I bought it 39 years ago this month. You're on the right path so just wait until you can afford doing the suspension the right way. I also added Dynamat sound/vibration/heat insulation throughout the entire interior, which made a huge difference. It was time consuming but well worth it. Peter

I was very pleased with the ones that I made following this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread38680.html Peter

I just had Dave Irwin rebuilt mine. Better than new.

I highly recommend Dynamat products, which have greatly improved my 73. In addition to using Dynamat on the firewall, transmission tunnel, floors and doors,etc. I added .25 in. Dynaliner to the trans tunnel and used .5 in. Dynapad on the floors under the carpet. After installing the Dynamat on the trans tunnel, it was still hot to the touch, but by adding the Dynaliner (which is stick-on) it was dramatically cooler. I re-installed the original vinyl over both layers and the interior appears completely stock. The only place that I didn't insulate was the roof. The vinyl is like new and I was afraid to mess with it. Peter

Thanks Steve. Following your photos made the job easy and I finally got the interior finished today. The belts work very smoothly and look almost stock. I may raise the driver's seat a bit to re-position the shoulder belt, but otherwise this is a great addition and I recommend it. Peter

Steve, Thanks so much for those photos. I realize that my problem is that I have two layers of Dynamat on my transmission tunnel, which interferes with mounting the receiver the way that you did. I guess that I can either remove some of the insulation or cut the the scabbard and mount the receiver without the L bracket. That would be easier. My other question concerns the mount on the sill. If I install the mount with the flat part against the sill, the belt is twisted. What did you do? Peter

Installation of the WELR 3 point belts in my 73 is driving me crazy, and I hope that someone can help. There are two problems: 1) The end that bolts to the sill has an angled mounting plate. If I bolt it to the sill with the flat part of the mount against the sill, the belt is twisted. Flipping the mount removes the twist, but it just looks wrong and isn't very secure. Anyone have a picture of how they did this? 2) I bought the mounting kit, which includes some angle brackets to mount the inboard (scabbard) receiver end. However, no matter how I install the angle brackets the receiver end is in the wrong position. I'm about to give up on this project and call it a loss. Too bad, because others have found a way to use these belts. Thanks. Peter

I know that this is an old post, but I'd like to hear more about how to take apart the reclining seat hinge (inner) on a 73. Anybody done this? Peter

The Northern Virginia Z Car Club is quite active, and we meet on the second Wednesday of each month at the Silver Diner in Tysons Corner. Social hour starts at 7:00. Our annual Z car show will be held on June 3, 2012 at Sheehy Nissan in Manassas, VA. Hope to see you there. Peter

FrankieZD, I have a very nice used pair from my 73 that I will give you. I'm also an original owner and us old guys should help each other. Send me a PM with your address. Peter

d240zx2, My belts have just arrived, but I haven't installed them yet. Can you elaborate on shortening the scabbard? Peter

Perfect timing on this post, because I've been considering upgrading the belts in my '73. MSA has a similar kit on sale now, but apparently theirs does not have the plastic extension that holds the buckle end. I assume that the hardware is metric. Peter

I was also seeking a quieter cabin, so a few years ago I put Dynamat on every surface that I could find, except for the headliner. I put it on the back of the interior plastic panels too, which stiffened them a lot. For the transmission tunnel I first installed Dynamat, and then .25" Dynaliner which is a foam material that sticks on. I used .5" Dynapad on the floors too. This was a lot of painstaking work, but the results are great. Much cooler and quieter. After reading here from some members who regretted using poly bushings, I used OEM rubber instead. The car really rides like new. Peter

MSA has them on sale now. I think they want $43.

Last year I put the MSA horns inside the K&N filters on my 73 after reading about them here. It made a very noticeable difference above 4,000 rpm. Peter

Hi All, The original aluminum brake drums on my '73 are no longer within spec, so I've ordered some steel replacements made by Centric. I hate the idea of seeing rusty drums so I want to paint or powdercoat them in a color that approximates the originals. I've been given a price of $60 each for powdercoating, which seems expensive considering that the drums only cost $24 each. Painting would be a lot cheaper but I don't know if the coating would last. Would I need high temp? Suggestions? Peter

I'd like to rebuild the Nikki on my 73. Any chance you can remember the p/n, vendor or other info? Thanks Peter

Hi All, I want to install the Toyota 4 piston front calipers on my 1973. Several in my club have done this but have had mixed results with clearance using 14" wheels. A kit vendor has told me that it's possible to grind the calipers or use a spacer but advised me to upgrade to larger wheels. Wouldn't a spacer require longer studs? I really want to keep these wheels because they are unique and look great but don't want to spend a few hundred on parts that can't be returned. Advice really appreciated. Peter

I bought my car new in 73 and the vapor lock in the summer made the car almost un-drivable, even in upstate NY. There was a factory recall that included insulating the fuel lines under the hood and installing an electric fuel pump near the tank. Check to see if yours has that pump. There a lots of options for insulating the lines that are preferable to what Datsun installed. The recall helped a bit, but things improved noticeably after I installed round tops.