pbarcher

Is the oil seal in the speedo drive pinion part of the new cable that I bought from MSA? Could you explain further? Thanks Peter

I believe that the speedo cable is causing the interior leak. It was replaced with a reproduction unit from MSA not long ago. If the cable is leaking where it attaches to the speedo can the lubricant enter the guage and cause damage? What's the best way to bleed the master on the car? The shop that did the work said that they bench bled the master.

Thanks all. I'll bet that the shop didn't bleed the master on my '73, which was replaced very recently. Can it be bled on the car? After two recent drives through the Virginia countryside, I discovered an oily fluid on the plastic carpet protector under the brake/clutch pedals, which I think must be brake fluid. Does this mean that the brake booster is bad? It is original to the car. Braking seemed to be OK but I took it easy once I realized that something was leaking. If the master vac needs to be replaced, is there any difference in the quality of the rebuilt units offered by our sponsors and the national chains? As always, your suggestions and advice are appreciated. Peter

Hi All After a complete suspension/brake/bearing/seal/bushing project on my 73, I have an odd problem with brake pedal travel. When I apply the brakes from moderate speed, the pedal doesn't engage until it is approximately even with the gas pedal. At that point the brakes work well but the side of my foot hits the gas. This didn't happen before all the work I had done. When the car stops, if I pump the brakes once the pedal height returns to "normal" which is about .5 inches higher than the gas. This is where the pedal used to engage. The calipers have been completely rebuilt, master cylinder has been changed (even though a new one was installed two years ago), pads changed twice, rears completely rebuilt with premium products, system throughly blead, etc. However the Master Vac is original to the car. I've owned this car since new, so I'm very familiar with how the brakes used to work. Any thoughts? Peter

My '73 had the same problem after the 60 amp alternator upgrade. I unplugged the electric fuel pump relay under the dash on the passenger side. This is not an ideal solution, because the electric fuel pump doesn't work. My car was delivered without an electric pump when I bought it in August of 1973. The electric pump and underhood fuel line insulation were added as part of a recall for vapor lock a few years later. The car runs fine without the electric pump, and since there is no air conditioning I don't drive it on hot days.

Yesterday I removed the insulation from the fuel rail and lines that was installed in about 1975. As others have noted, this appears to be made of asbestos so caution needs to be taken when working with it. Underneath the old insulation I found that much of the flexible fuel line was original to the car. Does anyone know of a source for replacement fuel line that looks like the original? It has a black braided fabric cover over rubber. I've searched all day and all I can find that is braided is metal. Thanks. Peter

I use Hagerty for my '73, which I've owned since new.

Over 25 years ago I installed the MSA "turbo" exhaust on my '73, and thought that the sound level was fine. When the muffler finally rusted I replaced the exhaust with the new system from MSA which seemed identical. Maybe I'm just old, but the new muffler was just too loud, so I had my shop, Autoexpectations, install the stainless bullet shown in the photos. They did a great job tucking it out of harm's way, and there was no decrease in performance. It's much quieter now, and more fun to drive. Peter

The shop replacing the bushings on my '73 had the same problem, and the bolts had to be cut off. He replaced them with new bolts from McMaster-Carr which are 14mm x100mm length x 2mm pitch. The part number is 95327A745 Peter

Since you are on the East coast I suggest buynissanparts.com in NC. Call first and ask for Rob. Great to work with and the discount is about 25% I can send a partial list of current partnumbers next week after I return home. Peter

Blue, I believe your micrometer, but it seems odd that these are not metric. I haven't measured mine, but will so so tomorrow. I called Courtesy Nissan a few weeks ago about these bearings, and was told that they were never sold separately, only as part of a complete half shaft assembly. A quick search for "loose automotive ball bearings" gave me http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit11932. 100 of these for $24.95 seems good, but there are no specifications about the hardness. More research required. Peter

I'm interested in replacing these bearings too. Can you confirm that they are 7/16th? Wouldn't they be metric?

I'm looking for the internal bearings (and related parts) for my 73 half shafts. Not the U joints, but the ball bearings that go between the two parts. Can't find any rebuild kits from the usual sources (MSA, BD, etc.) Any ideas? Thanks. Peter

I highly recommend Auto Expectations in Sterling, VA. They've done lots of work on my 73 including complete suspension, brake and performance improvements. The owner, Brian Downey, has been working on Datsuns since his dealership days in the 70's and still races too.

I used a tip that I found on the forum last year. Get a roll of Velcro at the home store and use the "loop" portion between panels. It's adhesive and works great. I also put Dynamat on the back of all the plastic panels, which stiffens them considerably and reduces heat and noise. I also put a small scrap of Dynamat on the mounting tabs, then used an awl to make a hole where the plastic rivet is inserted. This makes the hole slightly smaller and the fit tighter. Some of the aftermarket rivets are slightly smaller in diameter than the originals.

I have been using the K&N's on my Z for decades, but only recently added air horns from MSA because of posts I read here. What a difference! Picked up signifcant power at higher RPM.

I'm also looking for front control arm bolts for my 73. The p/n is 54436-E4100. Also need the lock nuts, p/n 08912-E4410 Nissan says they are NLA and BD and MSA don't have them either. Can anyone suggest where to find these? Thanks. Peter

I know that this is an old thread, but there were no replies. I want to keep my stock calipers and wonder if any of you have updated info on ceramic pads or recommendations for a street-only car. I don't care about dust, but the pads must work when cold with no noise. Thanks. Peter

After using POR-15 on the floors of my '73 I installed Dynamat Extreme. This is the peel and stick that many of you have used too. After that I put Dynapad on the floors and under the seats. I used the .5" version that must be glued down. The Dynapad is composed of several layers and makes a great under-carpet cushion. It really cools down the floors too. Initially I didn't plan on disturbing the vinyl on the transmission tunnel, because it was in perfect, orginal condition. However, after driving the car after doing the floors I realized that the tunnel was generating tons of heat. I carefully removed the vinyl and then installed Dynamat Extreme after removing the tar (tip: use adhesive remover). On top of that I used the .25" peel and stick Dynaliner. This is a soft foam that is perfect under the vinyl. I taped the seams before putting the vinyl back. The photos show the results. If I were doing it again I would do the tunnel first - makes the floors easier.

I installed them too, after a set from MSA didn't fit. Highly recommended.

I spent most of last winter putting Dynamat EVERWHERE on the interior except for the roof. The headliner on my 73 is original and in perfect condition and I didn't want to try to remove and replace. Under the carpets and seats I also installed Dynapad over the Dynamat. This product must be glued down but is soft and makes a perfect pad for carpet. I stripped the old tar from the transmission tunnel (used adhesive remover which worked well), installed Dynamat and then 1/4" Dynaliner. This extra step really made a big difference in trans tunnel temp and is highly recommended. Reinstalling the original vinyl was difficult but now looks like it was never removed. It took about 15 hrs. each for the doors, including both sides of the inner panel. Originally I didn't think that I could get to the surfaces without removing the window but with patience I was able to cover most of it. The insides of my arms was bruised for weeks from pressing Dynamat on the inside of the inner panel. Don't forget to put Dynamat inside of the plastic interior panels, it really stiffens them. I used a small square of dynamat between the panels and the mounts, then made holes for the rivets with an awl. This eliminated all the squeaking. Tip: I bought all of my Dynamat from Amazon.com which was half the price of my local Best Buy. You will use more than you think and I estimate that I have over 50 pounds installed. This is a very time consuming project but you will really appreciate the difference. Peter

I agree that it was a great day for Z lovers in Northern VA.

Dave, I have a '73 with the ZXP and 60 amp Bosch alternator. Also have both of your wiring harnesses (HLH and PLH), all installed at the same time. A while ago I posted that my ammeter was swinging wildly at idle and was charging at about 40 amps most of the time when engine speed was above idle. With lights and fan on the ammeter was pegged. Since the car is on a Battery Tender most of the time and otherwise runs great, I ignored this until recently when I realized that I no longer heard the electric fuel pump clicking when I turned on the ignition. A reputable auto electric tech checked the system and told me that the battery was discharged from what he suspects is a battery drain. Alternator was working fine. I noticed that the ZXP seems to have partially melted at the top. Any ideas about what to do next? Peter

Finally got around to having the charging system and battery checked by a reputable shop. I was told that the alterntor was functioning fine, but that the battery voltage was low. The tech said that he suspects a battery leak. A while ago there were some posts about battery leaks when using the ZXP plug with the 60 amp. alternator in 73 models. Was that issue ever solved? Peter

I've owned my 73 since new, and the dash is perfect. Armorall gets the credit.