hogie

That makes some nice noises!

I avoided the 260z's due to potential for goofy harder to find parts...ie. is it more like a 240 or a 280 or 260z only.

So with the money you saved being a diplomat, you can still buy a cheap Z!

You can hit the report button under their name, just to the right of the blog this post button. I have used it for spam, but I assume it will get a moderators attention

Well, you won't have to worry about rust for a very long time after all! Nice

Nice, but silly expensive

Honestly, I can't complain about my headlights either. I have some cheapie sealed beams and a homeade relay harness. Too bad running LED's would require even more work to the current wiring. That kind of defeats the point of taking some load off of the original wiring.

I found this on motortrend yesterday. Aside from the bar across the center of the headlamps these look like they could be a good upgrade over our standard lighting. However, they are quite pricey. Bright Eyes for your Retro Ride?Peterson 701C LED replacement lamps. - Motor Trend Blog

I suppose I should've taken some additional measurements for distance from the ground/tunnel floor and such. However, from what I could tell the the pinion angle and tailshaft angle were darn near parallel to each other. My old truck had hydraulics and I could lift and lower the truck over a 12" stroke and had less noise/vibration out of that range of movement. However, it was with a slightly longer two peice driveshaft.

I may have had some misalignment in my initial set-up. The pinion angle was 87 degrees on the passenger side and 86 drivers side. The transmission was showing 87 degrees as well so I thought everything should be kosher. Since everything is so easy to get to with the RT mount I went ahead and swapped in the snubber and factory mount to check the measurements. It ended up 85 degrees all the way across. I gave it a quick test drive and most of the clunk is gone again, and the thrumming vibration at 65-70 is gone as well. In both instances the car gets more vibration from 70-80, but it is more of a whole car feeling and not alarming. I believe the GM mount was more secure feeling than the combination snubber and factory mount. So if I get more time I may modify it to take a few degrees out of the pinion angle. Too bad most of my cure was actually from tightening up the rear differential mounts that had backed out over time. I think that really covered around 80% of the clunk.

My wife is on the way to harbor freight at the moment to pick up an angle gauge. Just for giggles I am going to toss in the original mount, measure the angle, and then try to duplicate it with the GM mount. If all else fails I will just use the factory mount and cut down snubber.

I just tossed in the 3-1108 and it cured most of my clunk, however the vibration at 65-70 is ridiculous. If I never got on the highway it would be fine. I will be trying the bump snubber later on tonight. I was just hoping to use the GM mount as I paid for it and it looked like it would be easier to work on in some regards.

I picked up a Griots Garage 6" DA and the Wolfgang TSR and Final glaze from Autoweek a few weeks ago on sale. I still have a couple of spots to go over, but for my first time using it I got some really good results. However, If your paint is tearing up rags I doubt it would be good on foam pads.

Thanks, they are painted fiberglass

I got up too early this morning not to share these. Yes, it was done with a crappy camera, a crappy cameraman, and an over-used industrial setting. Either way, I like them.

I got mine from the Zstore.

With your budget new wheels, fender mirrors, and flares would be cake to put on mine