hogie

Nevermind, I got mega lucky and found a spare latch in a box full of oil filters and windshield wiper crap!

I was looking through the FSM earlier and realized my 72 doesnt have a hood safety latch. After searching around a bit I have seen that it is apparently important to have one even if it does open opposite of most hoods. There are a couple of 280zx's in the local pull apart. Does anyone know if they use a compatible latch? Or if not, does anyone have one the are willing to part with? Thanks

Well I finally got around to mounting my seats and 4 point harness and ran into a couple of snags. The seats are pretty well too wide for the car, but fit snugly. The bad part is the rear strap on the harness is way too long even with the slack pulled out. Is there another way to mount these with the set-up I have and not snap my back? I know many people wrap there's around a strut tower bar, but mine isnt set up that way. Assuming the car runs and drives fine after I finally get it going I will probaly just by a regular seat belt set from MSA. I just dont like this harness, but it is what came with the car. Also, After making sure all of the rear suspension on my 72 was tight I found out the rear threads were all buggered up. I tried to reform them, but I still can't get the nuts on good and tight (they are doubling as a harness mount for now as well). Is there a way to replace these bolts without buying new insulators? Also, what should these be torqued to? My haynes manual doesn't say. Thanks

After about 8 months of tooling around I have finally got my 240 started. I finally got around to reset the oil pump in relation to tdc and set the float bowls on my carbs with some results. It fires up after a couple of cranks, but immediately revs to 3000 rpm. After either a couple of seconds of smooth runnning or back fires it will drop down to 1.5-2k and rev back up. This is with the choke cable pulled all the way out and the mixture knobs set 2.5 turns out. Hopefully I will be able to dig some more into the FSM and get it figured out in the morning. I am just glad to finally hear it run.

I am not sure if this will help ID it, but it is 3/32" in width and 9/16" across. I am quite surprised that no-one has said search or just buy the Just Su's video yet. Which I may do yet, but I was hoping to get everything up and running with my at hand resources. Thansk

I purchased a couple of GP Sorensen 72 SU carb rebuild kits and managed to use all, but one of the gaskets. I did some digging around in my manuals and in the instructions, but don't see where this one will go. Does one go in the nozzle assembly? That is about the only place untouched so far. I changed the gasket on the dipstick, 2 on the fuel screen filler pipe, the float valve, and float bowl drain. I didn't change the plastic washer on the slide in the dome, but at least I know about that one. I can't find the link to the instructions, but if need be I can highlight the installed items later and measure the left over gasket when I get home over lunch. Thanks

I have that on my Mazda tribute (Ford Escape) and love it. You wouldn't think something so simple would be all that big of an improvement, but it is nice. I haven't seen any water on top of the valve so far and I have been through plenty of heavy rain.

I bought the shortest japanese brake line from autozone and bent it up by hand. Those lines are cake to replace

Crap, those tiles would be expensive. I had a virgin concrete floor myself and it was still a lot of prep work. They spilled a good deal of paint and other crap on mine that had to come up.

I used a quickrete coating on my floor that looks very similar to yours. Other than burn marks from welding and a spot where brake fluid got threw it is almost as pretty. Quickrete just bought me two more kits to fix where the expoxy pulled up under warranty. I dont have quite as much gloss though. Their kits are sized for a single bay around 250 square feet. I think it was around 90 a kit from lowes.

I was planning on trading in my high mileage wrecked pathfinder on a new escape or tribute, but all the regional dealerships are sold out. We are also interested in a RAV4, but the local toyota dealership is a choad and will not budge off of MSRP. I am not sure what the huge deal about wasting the engines....who really wants some crap v6's from ford explorers and minivans? I know a handful of older supras have wound up trashed, but really the oddball semi valuable stuff isn't going to be traded in by the thousands

I have been putting in a fence at my house lately so havent had much time to do any updates. Essentially the only real work I have done on the car lately is wiring. Luckily that seems to be working at least. I finally got a chance to pull out the angle iron and see what is left of the frame rails. Honestly the inside edge is not anywhere near as bad as I feared. Also the area around the frame double is solid. Here is what we are left with on the drivers side. I need to get a couple more jack stands before i drop the other side down. Judging by the rust on the angle Iron I wonder if it was actually driven with that as a repair for awhile?

As far as the tires go I had a set on my WRX and loved them!

I am a couple of hours away in Jeffersonville, but as my car is not moving yet I dont think it will make it!

Great googly moogly. I managed to get a nice satin look on mine with Plastidip, though I haven't had it in the sun and weather to see how it will hold up.

I thought that would look better than that.

I like how they say the black dragon kit is ready to install even though it requires a bunch of work.

Switch Rebuilt! Problem solved, though it is a bit touchier to get right hand signals to work.

Crud, I was hoping to not have to rebuild the switch...though I suppose the write-ups will make that a relatively easy task. I thought that when the switch was bad it would cause a larger failure overall, not just one failing. I have at least 2 maybe 3 other switch assemblies to tear into. Hopefully they are from the same year. Thanks Zs-ondabrain!

I took the route of some other members and bought a universal flasher and now have 3 of 4 turn signals. The funny part is the dash display is reversed from reality. Turn on the left flasher and it flashes on the dash to the right and both left turn signals work. Turn on the right flashers and no light on the dash, but only the rear flashers work. Oddly enough all lights work propertly with hazard lights.

I have officially ID'd number 2....it is the accessory relay. Having plugged it in I now have windshield wipers! THough they appear to be very slow and don't even have the wiper arms attached yet! I have hooked up my hazard flasher, but still dont have any turn signals. My hazards also work. According to my haynes manual a white wire and green wire should go for the turn signal flasher and I have a set on the driver's side, but when connected to the heavy duty/hazard flasher I still get nothing. I would've anticipated a fast flash at least. I managed to connect the oil pressure sender as well and while I am not getting any pressure the gauge at least works when I ground it out. Thanks for your help so far.

About how much does a rebello engine cost to buy? Aren't they ridiculous high.

why don't they sell it in the regular outlets! I dont like to order things, then again I guess I shouldn't have got a Datsun since I feel that way

If it makes any difference I coated the cam in assembly lube about a month ago

Wow, I wouldn't have thought it would be that picky. Essentially I already have it set to not actually fire off. So cranking it over isn't a problem. I was just worried about it not even moving any oil the bit of cranking that has been done