hogie

I am getting closer to finishing up my car and I tried to put in the drive shaft tonight. Long story short is the drive shaft appears to be way too long. I have about 25.5 inches between the flange at the axle and the seal at the back of the transmission. However, the drive shaft I have is 29.5 inches long altogether and about 27 1/4 inches to the collar at the front. Also the splines don't seem like they want to engage all the way (though the flanged ends match perfect). How long should the drive shaft be for a 72 240 with a 4 spd? I have found a bunch of threads, but none with a proper length. Thanks

I just replaced my right cylinder with an Oreilly/brakeware part that looks exactly like yours last night. Everything fit fine and slides just the way it should. My brake lines were crap in the first place so I used a 20" japanese line from Autozone. It is a bit longer than factory, but still fits just behind the backing plate without any sort of interference. For some odd reason the left cylinder isnt available from my local parts houses...so I just rebuilt it. The kit looked exactly like it was made for teh new replacement cylinder. However it had the same bore and seemed to fit fine.

The new ones are so cheap, I wouldnt bother with restoring the original.

Did you check out the 2000Gt fab work? I can only imagine how much time is going into those. For the work involved $60k looks to be a steal.

I just picked up some reflectex from Home depot yesterday. I checked around and it is supposed to work quite well. I used some ducting insulation on my old show truck that worked great in the past and this is supposed to be superior. Unfortuneatly, I wont be able to make a before and after comparison as I havent actually driven my car yet!

Thanks to Z137 for the mirror and Ebay for my turn signal my needs are met! Though I am sure that I will need more parts sooner than I would like.

That looks beautiful....hurry up and trade me for my crappy red powdercoated junk!

I am still in need of an interior mirror please. Thanks

As a clarification, I am looking for the front underbumper turn signals as opposed to tail lights. Thanks for the help so far. I havent had any luck on Ebay either

After a good bit of messing around I was able to get them to mate up! Thanks for your time

I purchased the water temp sensor and holder from MSA for my 72 and cannot get it to thread into place. On close inspection the leading edge of the threads on the engine are a bit messed up. I went to harbor freight to get a tap and die set, but they didnt have anything that seemed to match exactly. The closest i could find was a 16 x1.5, but the holder didnt want to thread into that. Does anyone know what the proper size should be for me to repair the threads? Thanks

put me down for louisville, ky....I am just minutes away

Cool, I am still in need....but no mega hurry. Thanks

Nope, sorry....however, if I were to add it there wouldn't I be cross posting? I would be more than happy to toss one up in that section. I was just under the impression that most posts dont get seen there.

I am looking for a pair of turn signal assemblies (or at least the driver's side) for a 72 240z along with an interior rear view mirror. If anyone has some spares please PM with prices and condition. I have checked the classifieds and hit the search button. Thanks

Thanks, l may have to pick up a pair of those bad dog rails. They look like they would add a good deal of stiffness.

Post them up if you get the chance I would appreciate it. The factory parts dont seem very substantial for what is surely an important area for strength

I just picked up a 72 240z and noticed some wonderful frame repairs after the fact. For the most part the rust is just on the surface and can be easily removed. However there are a couple of areas that I am very concerned about. These next two pics are the back edge of the floor pans as it rises up above the axle. I am betting these are important for structural strength, but I searched and didnt see any posts pertaining to repair/replacement of the rear frame rails. If i just chop out the rust and re-weld as opposed to rivet these back to the pan will it be safe or is a replacement piece available? Thanks