hogie

I have a 77-79 wide ratio early five speed that won't go/stay in fith gear. From what I have read that usually signifies a bad syncros, gear/bearing free play, or ball and detent spring. Unfortunately, the kits available from Drivetrain.com and other google searches don't contain the 5th gear fiber ring syncro. I spent awhile at the dealership and they couldnt help either. Has anyone got a lead on that part or will I be stuck rebuilding one of my 3 four speeds? On a side note, I think I have the stock 3.364 rear end and I guess the five speed gearing isn't favorable in that combination.

Look at the post directly above your last one..... You need to swap bellhousings and get some machine work done.

I had a similar hard start problem last year and I think being too rich caused my problems. It got better as I got the fuel mixture closer to right.

I have finally got the chance to put everything together. MSA sent me an Exedy clutch (NSD-004) and PP (NSC-580) assembly as well as a nice throwout bearing from Koyo (RCT 4075-1S 70172 FGGUN). It shifts fine, but the spare tranny probaly has bad input bearings. There is alot of whirring when shifting from 1rst to second. It also makes a spinning sound when in neutral and the clutch is released. I have 2 other spares, but 1 had a metal chunk stuck to the drain magnet and the other had water in it and light surface rust on the gears. Lucky Me! At least the car ran good for its first trip of the year.

I was able to wiggle my steering wheel off in no time. If you don't wan't wack yourself and have a stubborn wheel you can always rent a puller from Autozone.

I haven't got all of the new parts in yet. When those do arrive I can get measurements of everything. New collar measurements are as follows. From the edge of the fork connection to the first machined edge it is 18mm. From the fork to the end is 33mm. The collar already on the car was ~26mm. The old pp was at 2" MSA said this one will work with the 240 cluch and pressure plate that is on the way.

I know that the solenoid does most of the hard current work, but a relay triggering the solenoid does help. The ignition in my old toyota would send current to the solenoid, but it wasn't enough to actually trigger it. As soon as I added the relay it started every time. The relay in this case doesn't power the starter itself...it triggers the solenoid.

Ok, MSA sent me the following part...however it looks nothing like any of the clutch collars I have seen. Does this look like the proper collar? Sorry for the fuzzy pics. I haven't seen any of these online with the blocky projections from the body. Also, I swear if you google the part number it comes up as a 350z part. Unfortuneatly, I don't have the box in front of me. I just got a call back from them and they said this part superceded the old number and that it is used in a ton of vehicles.

A relay for your starter will take some additional load off of your ignition switch. I have added one to my toyota truck and 240. Though it was a generic junkyard nissan relay, no need to buy anything special.

I bought a timing marker from him last year. At that point of time he was responding to messages pretty quickly. Though, he was also vastly overpriced compared to Nissan. the Z connexion 26111 I-45 North, #300 The Woodlands, TX 77380

This thread sure has got a bunch of attention today. I have a MSA 21-2121 70-74 collar on the way as well as another clutch from them. Too bad I didn't see the post about using the longer collar for the Zoom pressure plate until after MSA shoved mine in the mail. I know for sure that I was unable to move the slave rod away from the clutch fork by hand. I will check for play once I get everything in. I also just got the flywheel back from a super nice old guy with a machine shop in his basement. I already like to spend time in the garage, I don't think my wife would ever see me if I had the same set-up.

I also double checked the heighth of the fingers on the pressure plate. It was close to 1 3/4", not the 2" required for the 240 collar. Argh.

The bearing is there, but I had the wrong collar in the first place so it wouldn't solve my problem. On a side note, I think I had my gas tank straps too tight as the crack was right where the left hand hose connection was at. No rust at all, it just look like it was stressed at the weld.

I have some bad news about the Zoom clutch. There supplier for the clutch collars dried up and they no longer include them with the kit! So I still need to get with MSA to finish the job after all.

It doesn't turn very smooth at all. When my old S10's T/O bearing went out, it sounded like I had gravel turning inside my tranny. I wish it would've been as obvious as that one. I just ordered the Zoom clutch from Napa, they actually charged me shipping on it. Rock Auto would've been about 5 bucks cheaper, but I would rather deal with a store. Thanks again

Thanks for the recomendation, I was actually looking into both of those clutches. The tranny is pretty easy to pull, but I don't want to keep doing it. I am going to spend too much time under the car as is. I need to pull and repair my gas tank as well. It leaks a couple drops when it is really cold out.

The fingers are right at 2 inches to the floor. I will definately buy a new collar and throw out bearing if you think that is the main problem. I am not sure why you say a new slave cylinder? It is new already. Did you mean master?

Diseazd compared to your pic it looks like I have the 280z+zx 2+2. I was going off of this diagram http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html My master cylinder is the only thing not replaced so far. It has been bled properly and hasn't given me any problems shifting. The only odd part is it looks like the thread adjustment has been expoxied over. According to my measurements the free play is still fine. The slave is a non-adjustable new this summer. If it was bad wouldn't it exhibit shifting issues not slippage? IE the non fully extended cylinder wouldnt disengage the clutch. Here are the pics, the dirty little booger is hard to get in focus. Also, do you think the clutch is as good as wasted with the high heat the center has seen? Thanks again

I wish I could do a stated value policy. However with 2 adults and the second car is a Z Hagerty won't cover me.

I bought the car undrivable, but got it moving this summer. All told I maybe put 300 - 400 miles on it between June and Oct. It started out slipping in 3rd and 4th, but it was only at full throttle. Eventually it started to do it in 2nd. It was weird having the engine rev up and then the car catch up to the proper speed. It wasnt a complete slip where only the engine revved and the car didn't move. I wish I would've thought about looking into the clutch mechanism with a mirror before pulling it apart. Assuming my son cooperates I should be able to get a picture of the thow out bearing and collar posted tonight. I also think the flywheel looks freshly resurfaced. The clutch only makes contact with that inner area so that would make sense to be cleaned up there. Though I would think that would be more complicated to machine. I have 3 unknown quality transmissions so I was goin to try those before pulling the transmission apart. Though it is not a bad idea to check the syncros.

I finally got a chance to pull the slipping clutch in my 240z and I am quite suprised by what I found. I am not sure why it was slipping. The free play was set fine, there were no problems with shifting at all, and it appears that I have the proper clutch collar. According to Zparts.com it is a type b 5 speed collar with a old release bearing. The clutch friction material matches to the flywheel as well. Just to get everything out there, I am using a new non-adjustable slave and a type b clutch fork. The previous owner put the clutch in so I am unware of the brand, but appears to have a ton of friction material. The only problem I had with the tranny is 5th gear pops out, but that shouldn't cause slippage in 2-4 at WOT. Other that the obvious blued metal does anything look wrong with these parts. I have tons of friction material before it gets to the rivets.

Do you need another needle or can you just set it richer than you otherwise would at idle? I know that the higher octane can let you crank up the power on a turbo car, but I wouldnt think it would do squat for NA engines.

I just used the basic version of stabil yesterday. It is supposed to have more corrosion inhibitors than the old formula. I have no clue if that is true or not, but I know it is good at keeping gas from gumming up over the winter.

It sounds like that fix would be quite fidgety to get to stick. Was there some reason you had new plates made instead of just slotting the factory peices? Also, the link you posted doesnt seem to be working. I will try to search for those posts when I get the chance. I suppose I will try to get this done when I replace my clutch in the next month or so. I love winter and it sure gives me plenty of time to work on the car, but no time to really enjoy it.

I got the toe set on my 72 earlier this summer and was told my rear end was way out of spec. How bad are the following results? It drives fine on the highway and doesn't visibly dog track with the thrust angle differance. I am still running 14" tires so replacement costs arent a big deal at the moment. Also, I seriously doubt if I will put more than a few thousand on them in a year. Thanks Left Front /Right Front Camber -.4 / -1. Caster 2.6 / 3.1 Toe .12 / .16 left Rear / Right Rear Camber -.8 /-1.1 Toe .13 /.47 Total Toe .6 Thrust Angle -.17