hogie

here is a pic of what I used. I cut the inserts down to 8mm to help center the bolts in the radiator mounting holes on the core support. That also helped keep me from over tightening and cutting the rubber.

Wouldnt that thick of a spacing put your radiator in contact with the fan? With the mechanical fan and MSA radiaotor I was too close for comfort. Though part of that was they used the wrong radiator frame, which caused me to spend even more money on the dual fan shroud too!

I will try to post up a pic later on tonight.

The isolator is basically like those grommets, just thicker and has the metal sleeves. I have an a/c kit in the attic, but have never checked to see if it would install in this manner.

Nope, it is a solid rubber bushing...kind shape like this. [=] the bolt goes through the equal sign so no metal on metal touching the radiator.

I didnt use the shoulder washers as they were too deep at first. They will need to be ground down a little bit in order to fit properly. I will probably get these added back on tonight. As it is right now the rubber is wider than the bolt head/washer so the bolt only squeezes on rubber and doesnt touch any metal.

I ran to the junkyard and pulled the isolation mounts off a 95 Nissan Pathfinders V6 air box and used those. Each truck only has 3 so you will have to hit up at least a couple to find some good ones. The windshield wiper motor mounts are similar and can be made to work.

I have an unknown header on my car tied to the MSA premium exhaust and I dont notice any drumming or extra resonance from it. However, I do think it is pretty stinking loud. Its odd that my header isn't even from MSA and it didnt require any customization. All I had to do was leave out a short piece of piping that came with the car and open up the flared end a little bit extra

Sorry, I meant that as what the actual fuel level would be in the bowl as opposed to the float to lid setting?

I was aware, but then forgot....so I guess the fuel level should be at the 19mm on the front? That seems way low, though I guess it wouldnt really be a one to one ratio in level change. I have new valves, but haven't had much luck with setting them to the level specified against the float valve/lid.

That where I found the method I used to find my float level. I will try to make sure the level matches the nozzle sometime tonight.

I had to watch the little man last night so I didnt really get much done. However, I do know the choke mechanism was fully released as the nozzle was all the way up. Would running 17 degrees advance change the way the car responds to the fuel mix? I am not getting any pinging under acceleration. And it wont run well at lower levels of advance.

I will check both tonight and let you know how it goes.

I dont think I have ran into any guides saying to adjust them at the same time, but it is worth a shot.

Well, I just got my colortune in the mail and it confirms exactly what I already knew. I am rich, even with the adjustment knob all the way up on the front carb. Oh, this is on 3 screw 72 round tops Last night I checked the valve lash while hot and only had to adjust a couple of valves from the cold setting. The float seems to be set right at 23 mm from the bottom of the lid. I also synced them at 1500 and 700 rpm. This evening I tried tuning with the gunson and got the rear carb right where I want it. Even the lift the pin method is showing good on it. The front carb is another story. Even though it is rich I can only get it to run good at 1.5 - 2 turns out. I can't get the color to hit blue no matter how tight i get the screw. However, fully tightened the car will barely get out of its own way and will lean pop. At eithet setting opening the throttle will net a blue flame and a quick opening will flash yellow. Does this mean my needle/nozzle is toast? Would it make more since to fiddle with my floats again and lower the level a mm or so?

I figured out the problem last night...apparently this will happen whenever the ball falls off the spring and the rocker plate wedges itself against the walls of the box. I wouldnt have expected it to cause the strange effects, but it certainly went away when I put everything back together properly.

Got three spairs in the attic already! The bad part is I don't know what condition they are in. I was hoping to pull this one in the winter and replace it with one of the others. Since 4th gear was the same between the 5 speeds and the 4 speeds and mine should of had a 4 speed anyways it really isnt hurting me too much at the moment.

I just printed out and traced the atlantic zcar 72 electrical pdf and didn't find any such crossover. I will defnately check for any damaged insulation, hopefully it will clear itself up once I pull the switch back apart. I really dont want to pick up a new one as they are mega expensive.

I have a slow leak at the drain plug and can't get it to stop. I have already tried to use some teflon tape and tighten it a bit more, but it has only slowed it down. The other problem is that 5th gear pops out as soon as I let out the clutch. All the other gears engage quickly and smoothly. There isnt a clearance problem for the shift lever. It will stay engaged if there isn't a load on the drivetrain...i.e. driveshaft disconnect or the wheels off the ground. I read that there is a roll pin or something that can pop out, but I can't find the thread here or on hybridz. Is anyone familiar with this problem? THanks

The last couple of days I have been having problems with my turn signals not functioning properly. Usually the left signal would work and the right front would not. I took it upon my self to refresh the switch the usual way by opening it up and cleaning the ball, spring, and contacts. I have probaly opened this switch up four or five times as the repair doesnt seem to stay working for too long and now the tabs have broken off. So I just replaced them with plastic clips held down by the screws on the side of the case. However, that isn't the problem I have now. Whenever I turn on my left turn signal it causes the ignition to cut out in time with the blinker. The AMP meter tach and drop while the brake warning light also flashes. Pressing the brakes will prevent the signal from flashing. Signalling to the right doesn't appear to cause any problems, but actually works now. The only other symptom is that the flasher will continue to click even if the the switches aren't engaged. Does the ignition cut make any sense at all? I am going to pull the switch back apart tonight and see if I cant get rid of the problem, but thought you all might have some additional input. Thanks

I can't think of any real good reason for a car alarm to cause problems with a vintage car unless the installer is the problem. They really don't require squat for power so its not like they will overload any of the factory wiring. I have always ran hornet/viper alarms and had good luck with them.

You can get fiberglass bumpers from MSA for a decent price.

Oddly enough most of the Oreilly's Auto parts can turn your rotors for you.

I used a bit of brass pipe to join the two together. I can't remember the diameter, but you should be able to eyeball it no problem.

Sounds like a plan to me...I am already running 4 gauge straight to the starter from the battery so more wire isn't going to hurt anything. After that all I have to do is figure out my intermittant miss and replace my five speed and then I will have a decent driver. Thanks