hogie

The split opening on a panel puller helps to keep you from pulling the fasteners out of crappy panels though.

Nice, that is even cheaper than Nismoparts.com. Once I found carfiche I started checking out all my prices there instead of ebay,MSA, or the dealership.

I picked up a really nice door panel tool from Autozoo for a good deal. Not as cheap as the harbor freight items, but it at least had a nice handle and long angled neck. Too bad I dont know where mine is anymore.

After a long break on this thread I have made some progress on other parts of the car and come back to this. Unfortuneatly, something is wrong with my tranny or driveshaft. I was cruising at a steady speed in 2nd and went to 3rd slowy. At which point I heard a whirring, sliding sound coming from the transmission. A second later it felt like the rear of the car was binding and vibrating real bad. So I clutched in and slowed to a stop. The noise continued with the clutch in. I couldnt see anything wrong and was in a bad spot on the road so I backed into a turn around. Once I went back to reverse the noise/vibration went away and I limped back home in first and 2nd. When I tried to go into 3rd a second time the same thing happened. I know 3rd isnt blown out as I used it when I first left the house. Perhaps something backed loose, but I have no clue what is causing it. The only other symptom is that I get a funny chirp sound almost like a belt squeel when I get off of the gas and stay in gear. It is extremely short in duration and may not be related. The only thing that I can think of is my drive shaft is shoved pretty far into the tranny. I had an extremely hard time fitting it into the car. The Ujoints are newish and as of two months ago the tranny was full of fluid. I am at a loss on this one, but at least the engine runs nicely now!

I changed the fuel filter before I started to try getting her running. So it is pretty new, but at 4 dollars also a cheap replacement. The metal lines were full of crud when I got her, so I blew those out with a ton of compressed air. Though I think I tried to run the original fuel filter a little after that to catch anything broken loose. My fuel tank is in beautiful shape and was quite shiny on the inside. There are new 5/16 outlet and 1/4 return lines hooked up. The main change is that I got rid of the vapor tank. I don't remember hearing any thing out of the ordinary other than it just cutting power. When I had lean pops while trying to get it tuned up they either extremely loud or no worse than a sneeze. My exhaust could have covered up a quiet one. I am going to check for any loose bolts tonight ande see if I can't up enrichen the mix a bit more. Thanks again

Well I have good news and bad news. I only got to put 3-4 miles on her before an unrelated problem developed. It pulls strong from idle and runs good up to 4500 rpm or so. I never got past 2nd gear when getting on it so I wasnt going too fast as I am not very far out of town. When cruising about it at 30-40 (guestimated) everything goes fine. It doesnt seem to pull too quick in third gear, but I have never ridden in any other 240 for a reference either. I did have a couple of hiccups. Once while accelerating and 3/4 throttle it fell on its face at around 2 grand and then picked back up. The other instance was pulling away slowy from a stop sign while turning right. It cut power, I clutched in and it didn't stall. Two seconds later it was driving fine again. No lean pops or anything. I am guessing the fuel pressure really was as low as the gauge showed. Unfortuneatly, something is wrong with my tranny or driveshaft. I was cruising at a steady speed in 2nd and went to 3rd slowy. At which point I heard a whirring, sliding sound coming from the transmission. A second later it felt like the rear of the car was binding and vibrating real bad. So I clutched in and slowed to a stop. I couldnt see anything wrong and was in a bad spot on the road so I backed into a turn around. Once I went back to reverse the noise/vibration went away and I limped back home in first and 2nd. When I tried to go into 3rd a second time the same thing happened. I know 3rd isnt blown out as I used it when I first left the house. Perhaps something backed loose, but I have no clue what is causing it. The only other symptom is that I get a funny chirp sound almost like a belt squeel when I get off of the gas and stay in gear. It is extremely short in duration and may not be related. The only thing that I can think of is my drive shaft is shoved pretty far into the tranny. I had an extremely hard time fitting it into the car. The Ujoints are newish and as of two months ago the tranny was full of fluid. I am at a loss on this one, but at least the engine runs nicely now! here is the thread where I was having the driveshaft problems. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34661

Not a shabby idea, though it will fall somewhere after the radiator, water pump, and new seatbelts! I really don't the look of the el cheapos I have now and if they don't perform as well as stock why have them.

I will get a chance to drive it tommorow I got cut a little short tonight. I didn't get any lean pops tonight, though I had them earlier in the year when the floats where set way too low. Also, no leaks between the nozzle and bowl signifying too high of float either. The bowl vents are for sure unobstructed. I have the foam filters and have added fitting to the back to accept the overflow tubes as well as the gas tank recirc valve. I will be able to let you know tommorow about the rest.

Well, I replaced the fuel lines, disconnected the choked, lubed up the nozzles, and I re-set the needles to seat of the piston. And the results are it will idle quite smoothly at 750 and the 1000 rpm mentioned earlier. If I cut gas to either carb it will idle roughly, but will carry on no problems. Using the bean dip method I get a rough idle when lifting either piston. When using the the lift pins the idle raises a tiny bit and comes back down on the front carb. The back just drops a bit in rpm, but it doesnt die. The rental fuel pressure gauge isnt detailed enough to really say, but it hovers right around 3 psi. I will probaly go ahead and toss that electric pump I have on. However, I will be grabbing a ford cutoff switch before I do that. Here is a video, thought the quality isnt all that great. Thanks for your help everyone.

I am pretty sure that the gas filler neck I ordered from MSA was a genuine Nissan part. And it for sure had the ring on the bottom bolting it in.

Nice list, I just printed up a copy

They came with the car so I am not positive on this, but I think they are from MSA. Almost all of the receipts came from them, though I couldnt find the one with the header listed. They had a sticker marked made in mexico, but that has burnt off sometime in the last few months. It mounted up to the MSA premium exhaust without much fuss and sounds really good to me. Though, I really haven't gotten to drive it with everything working right. I will change out the fuel line and grease everything up real good tonight. Hopefully that will prevent me from doing the full tear down. You are right about the diaper changes though. I have no clue how he can completely fill a diaper the second you change him. That and pee on the wall and myself again two minutes later.

Could you have overtightened the rear brake adjusters as well? Mine brake pedal didnt feel right at all until I had them properly set.

Just got done with a feeding/changing session and it is definately an extreme change....good so far, but very tiring. Travel'n that is a ton of questions, but here is what I have for answers The nozzles seem to flow clear to me, I have shot a bunch of cleaner through them and Wd40'd up the sliding section. Though I hadnt heard to grease it, I will try that. The Choke actuates good, though on return with my old lines I have to manually move up the rear on occasion. Most of the time it moves all the way up. The pistons move extremely smooth, though with the 20wt oil and new seals they are stiffer than when I bought the car and whatever fluid it previously contained. They clunk when they hit bottom. The centering nubs are still on the back carb, but not on the front. I have the plastic floats. I mentioned returning to the factory float valves. I am currently running the factory front float valve and the GP Sorenson Rebuild kit rear float valve. Set to 14.28 mm front and 12 mm rear. I ground down a bolt to the proper length and set the valve to close at the point of contact. THis is with me blowing air through the lines and the float held right side up. I am just a little high on the back right now...closer to 25 than 22mm in the sight tube. The car generally idles pretty smooth as is, even if the rear cylinders are doing most of the work. It only gets crappy when I lift the rear piston all the way up. And even then it doesn't die if it is warmed up. There is fuel coming out of each line and close to the height of the nozzle. I picked up the honda fuel line as motorcycle shops were mentioned as a source and this stuff is supposed to be non-hardening. Also, it was cheap and as close to home as autozone. The inner diameter is really close to the replacement lines in the rebuild kit. Just a bit over in fact. I think I have hit everything there is so far. I don't have any way to check my fuel pressure just yet, but that can be changed shortly. I have a low pressure electric fuel pump I may plumb in temporarily to see if that eases any of the problems. I think it maxes out at 5 psi. Here are the requested pics and a baby for good measure Thanks for your help

The throttle shafts seem to be fine and i am getting spark on all cylinders. Both as tested by timing light and getting the plug wires to arc. I've got baby duty tonight so i wont get a chance to do anything else tonight. Tommorow i will try to pull the carbs and flip sides on them and see if the symptoms do too. After that another good soaking and new rear gaskets. I also picked up some nice honda fuel line to avoid future fires.

Already done with a crappy, non accurate Autozone rental. It was consistent across the board at 100. Which I know is low, but the meter was reading way low compared to a known air source i.e. my compressor. From what I remember it was reading around 70 when I was blasting 120 into it (with no leaking) So yeah, I dont know the exact compression, but that it at least is close from cylinder to cylinder.

I havent tried spraying the bottom of the carb manifold connection, and I have new gaskets, so I may as well. I have no problems syncing them at any rpm currently. At around 750 rpms, if I pull the front plugs the rpm wont drop. Also, if I pinch off the fuel line the rpms don't change dramatically. The rear carb does most of the idling. At 1000 rpm or so, this is not the case and the engine rpm will change if pulling the plugs or cutting off fuel. Oddly enough it will sometimes idle just fine on the front carbs, but more often then not it doesnt. For instance if I use Beandips method of carb tuning and lift the rear carb all the way it will usually die or come really close.

No more vacuum leaks that I can find. I blocked off the vacuum to brake booster to make sure I didnt have a problem there as well. I then double checked that my intake manifold and throttle shaft bushings didnt have a leak by spraying them with the carb cleaner. There wasnt any perceptible decrease in idle. The rear nozzle is a bit stiff, but was pushed up as if the choke was off. I have used a straight edge to set the shoulders of the needles flush with the bottom of the piston. I have also tried loosening the needle and using the bottom of the nozzle to set the position. It seems to run the same both ways. I am not sure by what you mean with the "base seated against the spacer well". I assume you mean is the jet centered and the piston makes a good thunk when dropped on either carb. If you spray carb cleaner into the mouths it will decrease the idle on both carbs. Starter fluid (which you said not to do) will increase the idle. Thanks

I made a new bowl sight out of a drilled out bolt, right angle brake bleeder fittings, and some fish tank line that allows me to get a much better reading with the engine running. I have the front carb set to 23 mm on the dot and the rear carb is closer to 22, but I am still getting the same sort of problems. The front carb appears to be working fine at a 1k idle, however if I drop it down to 750, it doesnt do much if anything. What doesn't make any sense is that when I lift the front pins the engine idles up and then drops down to a near normal level in a couple of seconds. Is there anything that would cause it to not be idling on the front carbs and yet have the mixture set right per the normal instructions? The rear carb is idling much better than before, but I still can't get the RPM blip to happen when I lift the pin.

I was quoted 500 from one of the local shops! You definately can't complain about the price..

I think Hagerty and Grundy are pretty supportive of kit cars. However, if you tried to pass it off to them or any other company as factory I am sure any claim would be nullified.

I am guessing you could title this like a kit car and I wouldnt think it would be that big of a problem.

I wonder how much the subframe would set someone back? Also, how safe would it be compared to our not so safe tin cans. I am pretty sure there was a thread on getting something like this made, in fact the pics look to be of the same car. I wouldnt mind having the main glass shell and throwing my good bits on it, but I am sure it wouldnt drop the price too much.

Yes, I know....my first post was being silly. However the Zcar gods did not find it amusing and decided to weaken my ignition switch. The relay I added was just to help me crank it over from the key. When adjusting my valves I find a peice of jumper wire does the trick nicely....who needs a switch in the middle of it.

It is ironic that I posted in this thread yesterday, because I actually had to add a starter relay. My stupid ignition switch didn't want to crank half the time on a full battery last night. Luckily, I had a spare relay left open in the box I used for my headlight relays. It was probaly the easiest thing I have done to my car so far.