Wargasm

Haha, oh snap! I didn't even see that post. Yeah, this is my learner car, and I figure I have extra incentive to make sure what I'm doing since it's my daily driver too. I am actually fairly mechanically inclined, I just don't have much experience. :\ Every time I figure out something by myself though, I become a better mechanic! Weeee!

Yay! That was actually really simple once I put my mechanic cap on and used a little common sense. Followed the slave cylinder line up to find out which one was the master, which was empty! Which was probably my problem to begin with. In any case though, I bled the $^!# out of the lines, since I'm sure I actually sucked in air by operating the clutch with the drainy nipple open. So at least I can add that to my book o' skills now. Thank you both very much for your help.

Oh, just any brake fluid? I will go and buy some, then. Thanks.

Oh...Oops. Well, good news is, air bubbles were coming out as I drained the slave. Bad news; I didn't realize that you filled the master cylinder, which drained to the slave. I was filling the tranny, haha! Ok so what kind of fluid do I put in the master? It's not the same gear oil I'm using for the transmission I'd assume. I think the line is empty now. Which is...A bad thing, isn't it?

Hmmm...It apparently looks a lot different when inside of the car...I have to track it down still.

Nice. that sounds a lot easier...

Oh, you mean a hose that I could loop straight back into the reservoir? So when it bleeds out it just replenishes itself? So that way, I loosen the nut, pump the clutch, the air goes into the reservoir, bubbles up and escapes through the place where you actually fill your transmission fluid? That way there wouldn't be any air in the line between the reservoir, and where ever it all ends up? Sorry if that reads poorly, trying to work this out in my head. Well that makes sense, I just gotta get some clear hose now.

Ok cool. So I can open the bleeder valve, and hit the clutch to expel fluid/air right? Do I have to have someone filling the reservoir while I do this, or is there another way? I don't have access to a lot of help right now.

This seems fairly common on the forums, my clutch doesn't have pressure in it anymore. The general consensus is to bleed the slave cylinder to get any air out, but I don't know where it is! How do I locate my master/slave cylinder to find the bleeder valve?

Guess I'll try again. A Z tune up video would be invaluable. Edit: Cool, he called and I got the dvd on the way. The area code came up 503, which is Oregon, where I'm from. He said once I get transferred back to Oregon guard base in July that I should contact them because they have a lot of events up there.

I sent in my order via email, with all the required information, but never got a response. Outstanding.

A ha! When you say adjustment you're referring to the little brass looking piece with the plunger that presses down on the metal hinge attached to the float? If so, I put new ones in that came with my carb kit, didn't know there was an adjustment to make. I guess I'll learn how to adjust them. Thanks. Awesome. I put the old piece back on (it looked newer anyways, I just replaced it because I had a new one on hand), and it works fine again. No leaks. The two pieces did look a little different, the older one had a fatter plunger on it, and was slightly shorter, so I guess there's the answer. Next step, get a new air filter.

Let me throw out a hypothetical for you all...Say...Hypothetically your whole air filter assembly fills up with fuel. How might that happen?

Ok... I put the carb back together, and put it back on my car. I did not put any fuel in the little bowl on the right (Seen here - http://www.box.net/shared/static/jmiv8mta6x.jpg). Is this something I need to do, or will it fill back up by itself as the engine runs? I went start the car, it would start up for a second, go up to about 500rpm, then die again. I also messed with the idle screws, I know you are are not supposed to do that. Now it will not start at all. Any ideas?

As expected, I ****ed up somewhere along the way. I put it all back together right, put a little oil in that top thing with the dipsticky looking contraption that unscrews. I didn't put any fuel in that side bowl yet, with the float. Might have something to do with it? I know you're not supposed to mess with them if you don't know what you're doing, but I semi-accidentally moved the adjusting screws. Uh-oh...

Thankfully I took that part out first. I have the carb all back together...Except this thing. http://www.box.net/shared/static/udun3c6lmq.jpg Sorry, picture is kinda large. What's the composite float...? I hope I took that one out. Do I need to like...Prime the little guy on the side with the float? It had fuel in it when I took it out. I'd assume I need to put more oil in the top where the dipstick thing is.

Nevermind, I can pretty much see inside the whole carb now. The gaskets were tattered, and I think one of them was missing.

Ok, got the first one off. Time to soak! There aren't any pieces inside I need to take out first eh? Just a little coolant, good call.

Going to get into the carbs a bit, but I'm kinda scared, knowing nothing about them. I have a big bucket of that parts/carb cleaner, and a can of the spray stuff. I'm sure most of you know this, but these are the kind of carbs I have; http://paltech1.com/db5/00485/paltech1.com/_uimages/240ZCarbs001.jpg I want to use the parts dip but I don't want to melt any gaskets, rings, or hoses inside. How..."Apart" does a carb get? Or is the spray good enough? Thanks. Edit: Ok started to take off the mounting bolts, only to find what looks to be coolant pour out. Guess I'm not taking it off at that point...Don't know why coolant is that close to the carbs either. Or oil. Why is there oil in them?

Haha, thanks. Hey I bought some carb/part dip, and was wondering exactly how to use it? Do I dunk the entire carb into it? I noticed it said to keep plastic/rubber pieces away from the stuff. Do I have to open up the carb and take anything out first?

I ended up getting the white one. It's really straight, no dents or scratches anywhere. It's unrestored, so it is a bit rough, but runs pretty well. I'm replacing easy stuff right now, some electric stuff, but I really want to tune up the engine so it runs a bit better. Thanks for all the replies, I think you guys are what talked me out of the roadster.

Well this one is looking like the likely choice now. I'll get it painted eventually. Checking it out on Sunday, if it looks solid, I'll GET IT! YAY!

Well, the 36k miles roadster guy lives down the street from me, haha. I'll be checking it out tomorrow. $2600 kinda seems like a lot for a car that doesn't run though.

Well I messaged about 5 sellers of various 240's and 280's, all around 2-3 thousand and in the local area. Going to work in a few hours, hopefully I can get a reply tomorrow. I guess I knew this 1600 would be a lot of work, maybe I just needed someone to talk me out of it.

Yeah, I used to have a '77 280 that I loved, but when I was in basic, my brother in law crashed it on the freeway. Driving hasn't been the same since. I guess for now any good year Z will do. There's always time for the roadster.