Hallaian42

My car is still for sale if anyone is interested

Hey guys, I'm a college student in need...Check out my auction 240Z For Sale

I just saw the sequal the other night as well. I too have to admit is wasnt as corny as i predicted. Along with alot of riced japanese cars, they added some american muscle in the mix as well which i really liked. The story is cheesy, but some of the cars and race scenes tightened my grip on my girlfriends hand on many occasions. By the way, I spotted one blue 350z in that movie and that was it. Anyone else see anything else interesting? That skyline was pretty awsome too. One other question....What is the deal with all the fire comming out the tail pipes on these cars? Does that really happen or is that just hollywood magic?

Careful how you phrase that statement alan. That can be taken two different ways, j/k

I just replaced my rear seal as i was putting in a new clutch. It is really pretty easy. Make sure you use a good seal puller tool. It will make your life a whole lot easier with that. It should just pop out. Use a good driver tool to put the new one in. You want it to go in evenly. I wouldnt recommend pounding it in with a hammer, you could damage it. That will really give you something to be "pi4## 'ed" about. :stupid: . I'm pretty sure its ok to put a little grease , keyword little, to help it go in easier. But dont quote me on that one. Have fun.

Hey Brian, If you check ebay you can find those parts cheaper. They are commonly sold on there. I got the slave and master for like 25 bucks each. I had a leak much like yours and it was hard to pin point the actual place of leak because it looked like it was comming from more then one place. I replaced the entire system along with the new performance clutch i put in. The parts appeared original and pretty tired. Considereing they were possibly over 30 years old each, I figured it wasnt a bad idea. If you do decided to replace those parts, dont forget to use those flare nut wrenches. I can't stress that enough. They saved my rear. I'm sure I dont have to tell you about that. Have fun!

It sounds like you have a leak. I would replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the hose. They may not all be bad. But they are cheap parts and creates extra insurance and piece of mind. :classic:

Man, I have the same exact problem and i still havnt traced the problem directly. Here's what you can do though. Check the spark plugs. If they are all black and smell like gas then you have a rich condition problem. Next thing i would recommend is get a manual and check all sensors. There are numourous causes for this problem. Your coolant sensor might not be working right, the thermo-switch might be causeing your cold start injector to stay open giving you 7 injectors instead of 6. The list goes on and on. For me, i have 72, with the 77 setup so smog is not a problem. I removed the cold start, air regulator, and thermo switch and im still getting rich condition. The best thing you can do is use that service manual, it saves you headaches. Let me know what you find. --Steve

In addition to what ED said. A white-out pen is worth its wieght in gold as well when taking things off. Unless you are changing the cam or something, make marks so you know it's going on back the way it was. Thats just for future reference i guess :stupid:

Man, I wish I would've known that a looong time ago! I'm going in there monday to try it out

I highly recommend buying Snap-On Tools. I believe they are simply the best. That is all I buy. It's a nasty habit once you get into it. Because they are all expensive, I would recommend buying Snap-on sockets, wrenches, and all the other stuff you use on a regular basis. I would especially recommend their flare nut wrenches and hex sockets because they will not strip those nuts if used properly. The other good thing about Snap-On is if you buy off the truck...You can finance the tools. :classic:

OK guys, Tomorrow I'm going down to MSA to buy a new clutch. I'm going to buy one of the Centerforce Brands. Question...What are the differences between the Centerforce I, Centerforce II, and the Centerforce Dual Friction? What are the Pro's and Con's, and what do you guys recommend. I'm looking for some good performance but i'm not a racer. Thanks!

I believe, on my car anyways, the canister's purge vacuum line is connected to some port vacuum on the intake manifold. Mine is right by the cold start injector...this is also next to the vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator. This may be different for you because you have a 75-76 model as apposed to a 77-78 model i have. Check it out... Also try listening to the motor when you start it up. If you here a hissing sound, that will be a sign of a vacuum leak as well. Like 2manyZ's said...use the vacuum diagrams and electric diagrams in the manual to trace every thing to the right places. Even if you have to go to your local auto parts store to buy a cheap manual, it put you in a much better situation to find the problem. This way you dont have to guess, especially if you arent a mechanic with years of experience. Good luck.

Ok man, the symptoms you describe almost sounds like you might a have a major vacuum leak. In this case it will throw your mixture all off and will cause your idle to be waay off. Since you said you have a hose comming from the carbon canister that goes to nowhere, I have reason to believe this is true. Check it out.