Hallaian42

My car is still for sale if anyone is interested

Hey guys, I'm a college student in need...Check out my auction 240Z For Sale

I just saw the sequal the other night as well. I too have to admit is wasnt as corny as i predicted. Along with alot of riced japanese cars, they added some american muscle in the mix as well which i really liked. The story is cheesy, but some of the cars and race scenes tightened my grip on my girlfriends hand on many occasions. By the way, I spotted one blue 350z in that movie and that was it. Anyone else see anything else interesting? That skyline was pretty awsome too. One other question....What is the deal with all the fire comming out the tail pipes on these cars? Does that really happen or is that just hollywood magic?

Careful how you phrase that statement alan. That can be taken two different ways, j/k

I just replaced my rear seal as i was putting in a new clutch. It is really pretty easy. Make sure you use a good seal puller tool. It will make your life a whole lot easier with that. It should just pop out. Use a good driver tool to put the new one in. You want it to go in evenly. I wouldnt recommend pounding it in with a hammer, you could damage it. That will really give you something to be "pi4## 'ed" about. :stupid: . I'm pretty sure its ok to put a little grease , keyword little, to help it go in easier. But dont quote me on that one. Have fun.

Hey Brian, If you check ebay you can find those parts cheaper. They are commonly sold on there. I got the slave and master for like 25 bucks each. I had a leak much like yours and it was hard to pin point the actual place of leak because it looked like it was comming from more then one place. I replaced the entire system along with the new performance clutch i put in. The parts appeared original and pretty tired. Considereing they were possibly over 30 years old each, I figured it wasnt a bad idea. If you do decided to replace those parts, dont forget to use those flare nut wrenches. I can't stress that enough. They saved my rear. I'm sure I dont have to tell you about that. Have fun!

It sounds like you have a leak. I would replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the hose. They may not all be bad. But they are cheap parts and creates extra insurance and piece of mind. :classic:

Man, I have the same exact problem and i still havnt traced the problem directly. Here's what you can do though. Check the spark plugs. If they are all black and smell like gas then you have a rich condition problem. Next thing i would recommend is get a manual and check all sensors. There are numourous causes for this problem. Your coolant sensor might not be working right, the thermo-switch might be causeing your cold start injector to stay open giving you 7 injectors instead of 6. The list goes on and on. For me, i have 72, with the 77 setup so smog is not a problem. I removed the cold start, air regulator, and thermo switch and im still getting rich condition. The best thing you can do is use that service manual, it saves you headaches. Let me know what you find. --Steve

In addition to what ED said. A white-out pen is worth its wieght in gold as well when taking things off. Unless you are changing the cam or something, make marks so you know it's going on back the way it was. Thats just for future reference i guess :stupid:

Man, I wish I would've known that a looong time ago! I'm going in there monday to try it out

I highly recommend buying Snap-On Tools. I believe they are simply the best. That is all I buy. It's a nasty habit once you get into it. Because they are all expensive, I would recommend buying Snap-on sockets, wrenches, and all the other stuff you use on a regular basis. I would especially recommend their flare nut wrenches and hex sockets because they will not strip those nuts if used properly. The other good thing about Snap-On is if you buy off the truck...You can finance the tools. :classic:

OK guys, Tomorrow I'm going down to MSA to buy a new clutch. I'm going to buy one of the Centerforce Brands. Question...What are the differences between the Centerforce I, Centerforce II, and the Centerforce Dual Friction? What are the Pro's and Con's, and what do you guys recommend. I'm looking for some good performance but i'm not a racer. Thanks!

That is pretty much the dumbest thing i have ever heard. (Provided that was a true story). If so, I like how his buddy claims to "tune" hondas. It seems like these days, if you are between the ages of 16 and 22, you are classifed a "tuner" if you can install a cold air intake or pay somebody to put a 5 in. pipe on your muffler.

I believe, on my car anyways, the canister's purge vacuum line is connected to some port vacuum on the intake manifold. Mine is right by the cold start injector...this is also next to the vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator. This may be different for you because you have a 75-76 model as apposed to a 77-78 model i have. Check it out... Also try listening to the motor when you start it up. If you here a hissing sound, that will be a sign of a vacuum leak as well. Like 2manyZ's said...use the vacuum diagrams and electric diagrams in the manual to trace every thing to the right places. Even if you have to go to your local auto parts store to buy a cheap manual, it put you in a much better situation to find the problem. This way you dont have to guess, especially if you arent a mechanic with years of experience. Good luck.

Ok man, the symptoms you describe almost sounds like you might a have a major vacuum leak. In this case it will throw your mixture all off and will cause your idle to be waay off. Since you said you have a hose comming from the carbon canister that goes to nowhere, I have reason to believe this is true. Check it out.

Hi I have 2 questions, 1. I'm doing an l28 f/i build on my 72. For dress up purposes, do i really need to have the injector cooler? At least i think thats what it is. It's the thing that looks like a turbo on the passenger side of then engine that blows air up and over the valve cover onto the intake manifold. I think it looks really ugly and i want to take it out. 2. I notice that most of the carb. engines have those valve cover breathers. Can they be used on the f/i engines as well? ...or does a hose need to be routed to the intake track. Right now i have one routed to the throttle body. Is this a good or bad idea. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If we get enough pre-orders, You can get some cool indiglo ones at www.speedhut.com.

Has anyone had experience with Crane Cams performance ignition? Well i have a 240z with 78 L28 F/I engine and i decided putting in the xr-3000 ignition and the ps-91 coil. I got the coil in fine but i wrestled the xr-3000 all day long and never got it in. It consisted of removing the stock pickup coil and reluctor and replacing it with thier own version thats controlled by a special computer that fires the coil. I had two main problems. The coil wire fired fine...but spark from the spark plug wires would only spark once maybe twice when cranking. I adjusted the hell out of the thing and could not get it to work. The other problem is if you take out the stock pick up coil, then what is conected to the main f/i computer to fire the injectors? Sorry to go on about this, it made me frustrated all day. This setup i bought from MSA...its in thier catalog and it says it's supposed to work with my year engine, and distributor i assume too. Thanks if anyone could help me out. steve

I need some advice on how to get my engine compartment painted. I'm not looking for any kind of professional job and i was hoping to just do it myself. Is it possible to get out of taking the engine completely out? If i were to cover everything and get some sand paper, can of primer, and some spray paint, would this work. I have no experience whatsoever with paint and body so i need help on how to approach this. Thanks guys steve

Please tell me you dont believe that crap. That ebay seller has got scam written all over it. Do you really want to pay 4 bucks for something that is going to manipulate your system and give you 20 horsepower. I like how he doesnt even show you a picture of what he is actually selling. There is not one word describing what the mod is except that its a mod for the intake temp. sensor. Thats it! For all you know...he could ship you a piece of paper that says cut a certain wire then you are done. I wonder if this guy is trying to use a placebo effect on people, pyschologically thinking they have 20 more horsepower when they really have a busted air temp sensor. I also like how he says "use premium fuel for best results." Well for some people that would almost give them 20 more horses right there. That is if you've been running the cheap stuff this whole time. Oh yah...and check out all the sellers negative feedback too. There were some pretty p.o.'ed people out there. Sorry for venting so much, these kind of people tick me off Steve

I totally forgot too. It just dawned on me one day when i was looking at my boring gauges that dont even work yet. :stupid: It's almost halfway to the 20 so I thought it might help to try and give a reminder and an incentive.

I remember a while back that we talked about a company called speedhut (on the web) that fabricates custom indiglo guages that you can design yourself. I thought this was a really cool idea and would be a neat little mod for those of us who arent hardcore fully restoring kind of people (not yet an my age anyways). They require that they have 20 pre-orders before they customly make them for the 240, 260, and the 280. I checked thier website the other day and there are 8 preorders. Only 12 more to go. Just a thought...no pressure :lick: Check them out, they are relatively inexpensive and you might like them... www.speedhut.com Steve

I'm 20. There is something great about fixing up a car that is 10 years older then I am.

If you want to remove the cold start injector from the F/I setup, would you remove the air regulator and thermotime switch as well? Also, if you were to do this what do you do with the electical connectors so that it doesnt mess with the computers mixture readings and what not. What is the standard precedure for doing all this. I'm getting a cutom fuel rail and i want to elimate the cold start Injector because i think its giving me rich conditions, plus i live in So. Cal. Thanks for your help Steve