77Z

If this is a picture of what you're talking about, I don't think it'll work. That wouldn't cover the two holes in the '77Z door well which the grommet goes into. The grommet I need is as in the photo, roughly 3 in tall 1 in wide, rubber.

If you're saying I could buy the switch and get the bezel I'd by two of the right side switches just to get the rubber grommets.... and chunk the switch.

I think I've seen that metal bezel you're talking about. But on my 77 I had these rubber pieces that have about a quarter inch long studs on the back to go into the door well holes. I think I will hunt for a cast and mold system. I've been looking for these for a long time.

The pictured grommet looks good but is actually very brittle and the rear posts are split off. The other one has crumbled away. Does anyone have a source to purchase these or a cast/mold product that might work?

My elation from determining that I don't have a blown head gasket is exceeded only by my gratitude in your (@cgsheen1 and (@siteunseen) replies. I will heed advice to remove the oil pump.... after draining the oil (I read about that somewhere too). I'll report back on this thread as the project gets going.

Thanks, siteunseen, I went through those. I don't need a timing chain, valve or head work and I'd like to not disturb my new valve cover gasket or the perfectly fine head gasket. I do want to replace the pan gasket (due to the mess created by the cover leak). I'd like to see if anyone's successfully re-seated the cover without disturbing the head. Unrelated video of the Z's new pipes VID_30650805_133332_512.mp4, enjoy.

It seems I'll be servicing my front cover (see attached). But, from this and other discussions, I'm glad my oil leak isn't a blown head gasket. I get fresh, new unburned oil at the corner of the cover and block (under the masking tape). Its annoying to have had this leaking for a long time and being unable to isolate the source. I first replaced the valve cover gasket. So, I know I'll pull the radiator, shrouds, fan and belts. Is it fairly straight forward to: - drop the pan entirely and go with a new gasket after thorough cleaning (its totally fouled from the oil of this leak) - pull the pump and front cover from the block (oh, and drain the oil first).... or can the pump and cover come off as a unit? - gaskets needed on the front cover or just sealer? Thanks, Ed

Standard alternator Bosch AL236X. Plenty of amps to run the Sound Ordnance woofer behind the passenger seat and the Kenwood amp under it. Speakers inside the front center console and inside the B-pillars. Look inside and you can't see anything but Z.

Those are great. Mine look slightly different but have taps for my heavy audio requirements. I found these plain jane red and black covers on Amazon that fit the terminals well.

Driving it!

I've driven the new mechanical regulator long enough, since popping loose the contact, that the spiking would have appeared. And, it has not. So, the spiking problem was likely the solid state replacement that was in there. It had evidence of problems (cracked base). Thanks again guys.

Here's the pics. Body harness are the dirty ones. Totally different.

Viola! The new VR works now! I took it apart, violated the warranty that expired 44 years ago and moved all the contacts for freedom. One of them was stuck. See photo. I unstuck it and problem solved. The dashboard gauge reads ~14 and no charge light. However... following ZedHead's advice I checked the harness wires. I need to do some cleaning to complete the check, but right off the bat I see that my body harness wires are different than EE348 (which is the relay end). That W/R is NOT at the top on the car end. I believe its Blue/white at the top. The White/Red is 1 pin to the side. Before I put it all back together nicely, I want to finish the wire checks and get some cleaner for the contacts. Then, I'll monitor for the mystery spiking. THANKS GUYS! I've been into most everything on this Z over time, except the VR. So, its hard to imagine that the harness/pin were changed. There's a possibility that my "Z-guy" in Benbrook, TX changed out the VR to solid state a few decades back (must have, since its not stock). But, I can't imagine pins were changed.

Got a multi-meter and will measure if you can list what I'm measuring The new M-VR is on the bench so I'll take a look inside and run some paper with cleaner through the contacts and also work over both connectors and report back.

Yeah, I'm referring to the gauge in the dash. The new mechanical VR makes it read about 13vdc and the red light is on. I interpret that to mean its accepting no input from the alternator and its running on battery. When I put the old SS VR back, the gauge shows what normally is a good charging alternator at <16vdc and no light which has been normal for over 40 years. The connectors match up just fine. I'll need to check with S30Driver about opening up the factory sealed M-VR to check its contacts. So, given I've got an external VR, both the SS-VR and the M-VR should function equally well? Just to freshen the original goal; to resolve a needle-pegging spike indicated by the gauge in the dash intermittently. This is accompanied by apparent issues with the audio system. A quick shutdown and a few restarts clear it up. Cables are checked and all appears tight and un-corroded.

I don't have a mechanical VR. See photos early in the thread for the Uni-point solid state VR.

Got the VR from S30Driver and installed it. It is significantly (3x) taller than the one I removed (which we determined isn't original). But, there is clearance (see photo). And, awfully glad I got the one with the Datsun label on it proudly displayed 🙂 Unfortunately, now I've got a charge light. The volt meter is 13 volts and is just battery power since it should be reading near 16 if charging. So, logically, would the VR disallow charging to the battery if its the wrong VR? I reinstalled the old VR and the alternator is charging and there's no charge light. Ideas?

So, summing up what I've learned here: My 03/77 used an external mechanical contact type VR originally and somewhere along the line it was replaced with a solid state unit (Unipoint). So, it's still external and un-converted and my alternator has no internal VR. I'll be installing the new VR from S30Driver and crossing my fingers that the spiking volt meter issue is resolved. This is despite some configuration sites that seem to show Nissan changed to internal at 03/77. Maybe mine was right on the cusp of the change.

I'm from the test and measurement business, that stuff is cool. Want it?

OK, ZH, if this is my VR, it looks beautiful and also solid state. Nothing to corrode, or clean? That's one of the simplest PCBs I've ever seen... couple of resistors, couple of capacitors... and perhaps an adjustment screw there at the paint mark? The PCB base was already cracked. And I'll say that pulling the PCB out of its case, after removing the 1 securing screw, felt damaging to the unit or at least its seal. So, I'll install S30Driver's unit and see if the intermittent problem resolves (cheap test @ $60). A few days of driving it and results will be obvious. If spikes persist, I'd seal this thing back up well, including the crack in the front, and reinstall the original. But then, its alternator time? My alternator is likely the newest part on my car (installed in 2011).

This is a Texas Z so not likely much rust. And it lives in a garage. So we'll see. I'll post pics.

Didn't know that was possible. I will do that tonight and let you know.

I'll take it! The one with Datsun on it.

Viola! Its a VR hiding under the plate. Never had cause to be there except for re-terminating the vacuum hoses when the heater doesn't work (pro tip). But, its a 23500-B8000, not a 23100-N3303. I see a couple of sources for a new VR out there. Anything I should look (watch out) for? Thanks!

Zed and Dave, yeah, its going to stay parked for a bit while I check cables and such. Good point.