Hype

The difficulty is in installing the cap, even without the crank. I took 5 minutes of out my day today to try the fitment again after freezing the cap and it was significantly easier. Next chance I get, I'll heat the block as suggested above. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll follow up when I try again.

Ohh good one, totally forgot about that trick. Will do! Surprised I haven't found any other threads on fitting the cap, only issues installing the seals. The seals installed fine, but they're ruined because I had to pull it all apart again. :stupid: I'll pick up a replacement seal kit as soon as I get this install sorted out. Curiously, the Stone gasket set I got uses side seals that have the "nail" integral to the rubber so it's all one piece. They installed easy enough. Negative - I meant it's the last cap as in #7 main. That's why I specified that it's the cap with the rear main seal. I'm following the book, and it suggests to lightly file the bottoms of the caps, but my issue is with the sides of the cap. All the other caps tapped in just as the "How to Rebuild" books suggest, but I was stopped dead in my tracks when I tried to turn the crank after torquing all the mains.

Rebuilding an L28 and that last main cap (the one with the rear main seal) is giving me grief. It's near impossible to tap it in with a mallet and it always ends up moving in its register. I resorted to using old head bolts threaded into the block as guides to get it reasonably straight, but when I finally got it installed it wasn't quite flush with the block and of course, the was crank seized completely. I'm hesitant to remove any material from the cap because of the side oil seals. Any ideas? Thanks.

Rebuilding an L28 and I chipped off a piece of the damper closest to the crank. Can I have my machinist repair and rebalance this damper or will I need to look for a new one? Thanks.

None of the local auto parts stores carried 1/2" FI hose so I ended up getting it at a marine supply place. Problem is, other than making a bit loop I don't see how I'm gonna get the 90* bend from the tank to the pump. Here's a picture of what the hose looks like: Is there a place that sells this hose? MSA didn't have it, they only had lines for carbed S30s.

I believe at some point they went away from gross measurements to SAE net, but I wonder what an apples to apples comparison with the power of the previous motors would look like. Can anyone dig up dyno graphs for L24, L26 and L28[e][t]?

Whoa, hold your horsepower there! The KA24 is a stout motor that has a lot of ponies that Nissan left on the table. If you help it out from its restrictive ECU programming and intake manifold, it has many strengths that shine through (including more valves than an L28:p) The youth market is now all over this car, many of which foolishly (IMHO) dump the stock engine for a JDM import. The press was lukewarm on it at the time, but the test of time has shown the strength this car has. It was the "drift tax" on the 240SX that got me to take a look at the Z car in all of its forms, and that interest has never left. Granted I dont have L-series experience but it sounds like the oversquare L24 is more to my liking. If I keep the 240SX, I already have another KA block on a stand ready for disassembly and rebuild! Should I happen on a clean S30, I would strongly consider an RB swap. Gotta love Nissan/Datsun, they have a pretty friendly interchange between cars. (side note: during my trip to Japan this January I took a tour of their Tochigi plant - interesting stuff but I may have to make a new thread to get to it all!) Can anyone offer up any information on 74/75 MY 2+2s with t-tops? I think I'm just asking for too much there

Awesome, so much information! Thanks to everyone who replied. I kinda had my flame shield on, expecting to be told "SEARCH!", but as I said before I've found conflicting information. Hmm that would put me at the same weight as my current 2+2, the 240SX. Add to that the difficulty in sourcing 2+2 specific parts... still, I'm bent on the idea and I'll see where it gets me. EDIT: The Z didnt get t-tops until the 280ZX, correct?

Hey all, been lurking here for awhile but it's time I made my entrance. Been a Nissan guy for some time, but I may well be finding that S30 project I've been interested in for awhile! From what I can gather, 2+2s were offered in 74, 75 and 76. Furthermore, they were actually separate chassis from the 2 seaters. Am I correct so far? Some cars with a 2+2 option basically put a cushion and a seatbelt in place where the package tray would be. The Z31 has different quarter windows, but it seems that S30 2+2s aren't any different from the outside. Basically, I'm looking for a CA smog exempt 2+2 S30. Does that limit me to 74 and 75 year cars? Is the difference solely in the interior, or are there chassis differences? I'm not afraid of a little sourcing/fabbing, especially since there are plenty of abandoned project cars here in SoCal one step away from the junkyard :disappoin.