chet
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Thanks Geezer- all good advice and thats pretty much how I'll go about it. The engine will be pulled, along with doors, hood, valence, cowl & the interior. What measurements may change doing them 1 at a time?? Maybe the distance from trans tunnel to door sill? the sill to roof?
Chet
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Hello Chet, sorry for the late response. I haven't signed on for a few days. I'm not sure where 280 Master got that idea, as I did do my floor and support replacements on a rotisserie. The advice that I can offer would be: Raise the car high enough to gain access to both inside and underside at the same time, Make sure it is safely supported. Take many measurements before starting to ensure nothing bends or twists out of shape. I have heard stories of impossible door fits and such when reassembling. Only work on one side of the car at a time, to retain as much structural rigidity as possible. These are the things that immediately come to mind, but a search of the archives may turn up some valuable pointers from other members. Good Luck
PS-If the car is not completely stripped be very careful of catching flamable materials on fire.
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That is a sweet looking Z. Congratulations. Love that color and graphics too. Its proof maintenance & upkeep is key. -
Steve 1972Z, its all of them, front frame rails, floorpans and fpan supports. From what I've seen, Zedds look really nice and I intend on using them. Iam a little concerned about needing more pan in the firewall, but what the heck, its' only metal. Good luck on yours too sounds like you are well on the way.
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Thanks 280 Master, I posted a message to him about it.
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Thanks, the tires were flat to the rims with sidewall cracking you could stick a finger inside. That was a large reason I left the car alone. Turns out they just needed a refill- . We had to drag it out with a tow strap but after a short distance, something gave (!) and it rolled free. The engine oil is golden, ATF is bright red, there was oil in the upper head hex bolts, 1/2 tankful of gas, oil in the carbs and carb pistons slide freely up & down. Right now, marvel mystery oil is working its way down past the the piston rings. before I attempt to hand turn it over. By luck or otherwise 9 valves were closed and 3 open during the sleep. In a couple of days, I'll get a new battery and try to start it with a small can of gas connected to the fuel pump. The weather is cold & wet. A real drag laying on the ground while connecting the straps & tie downs. Gotta say, it is much better than the deep freeze of a couple of weeks ago. Since it was off the road,I gave up rights to the plate. Now I'll get our blue collectors plate- a 1x fee of 30 bucks or so for lifetime! I am beginning to be inspired again. Zcar,Zcar,Zcar
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Hello, I am new here but an old friend to Z cars. Great website with lot's of help - nothing like restoring during the late 70's early 80's- . Yesterday, I brought my 72 240 home from 23 years of commercial storage. Cripes I could have bought the building it stored in for the rent paid! Back then, I replaced every body panel but the roof, floors & frame rails,- the engine, tranny, brakes etc were aok when last shut off. But alas, the corrosion caught up to me making it undriveable. If I remember, it was all of 12k 1984 dollars. The front fenders and valence are fiberglass- whatever became of that company?? I thought they made a pretty good product. Can I replace the rails & floors not using a rotisserie? I'll pull the engine & tranny, remove the front steering/suspension completely, and strip the interior. It just breaks my heart to have to disassemble much more I'd like to leave the fenders on. If so, how can I support the car while doing the rails?? Are Charlie's frame rails slip on or do you remove the originals completely? Maybe do the floors first and support across that while doing the front? How could I raise the car higher once it is stripped? Any advice is appreciated,
